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https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Dirknerkle diychristmas.org wiki - User contributions [en] 2026-04-18T18:02:41Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.35.11 https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Making/Wiring_Mono-Pixels&diff=3271 Making/Wiring Mono-Pixels 2026-04-16T17:49:34Z

<p>Dirknerkle: /* Understanding */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Candy_cane.png | 200px |right]]<br /> This is a tutorial on how to make a pixel string manually with regular, single-color LEDs instead of 3-color RGB LEDs. It's a rather labor-intensive project but once finished, the result is quite rewarding and along the way, you'll acquire worthwhile knowledge on how pixels work. You'll also acquire much-improved soldering skills!<br /> <br /> For this project, the author wanted to replace the incandescent mini-lights in some commercial candy canes with white leds, but also gain the ability to animate each cane individually. The diameter of each cane tube was too small for a normal RGB pixel to fit, and as the tubes were clear, red plastic, showing a green or blue from within wouldn't have worked very well anyway. So instead, the author chose to make his own. Click this link to view the working prototype: '''http://vimeo.com/214309360'''<br /> <br /> == Materials ==<br /> ::* Commercial plastic candy canes, about 27" tall. Purchase from Home Depot, Lowe's, Target, etc.<br /> ::* Common, clear lens white LEDs (12 per candy cane)<br /> ::* WS2811 driver boards (purchased off eBay) (4 per candy cane)<br /> ::* LED carrier boards (DIGWDF Store sells these, but you can also use common prototyping boards, 8 per candy cane)<br /> ::* 5-conductor ribbon cable (about 28" used per candy cane)<br /> ::* 4-pin male and female plugs (any kind will do)<br /> ::* ESPixelStick controller (to power and control them, but most any pixel controller will suffice)<br /> <br /> == Understanding ==<br /> <br /> To get started, let's understand how the pixel driver board works and how to wire it. At 5/16" wide and 1/2" tall, the driver board is quite tiny and consequently can be a bit testy to work with. This is the same driver board that's in most RGB bullet pixels and uses a single WS2811 chip. The top and bottom sides of the board are shown below along with the assignment of connections. This tutorial will use the 5vdc version of the driver board; pixels that use 12vdc use a variant of the same board but the differences are only to accommodate the larger voltage -- the same concepts presented here apply to the 12vdc version. The WS2811 chip has internal circuitry to serve as a constant-current driver that delivers 18.5ma of current to the three outputs; each chip requires three different channels to control its three outputs.<br /> <br /> [[File:1-understanding.png | 400px | center]]<br /> ::* The four holes along the top of the board are for the four pins of a common-anode RGB led; the RGB LED is soldered directly into these holes on a regular RGB pixel. Monopixels use only a white LED, which connect to either the R, G, or B and +V holes.<br /> ::* Because the board uses RGB leds of the a common-anode type, switching is done by taking the output control pins to ground, thereby completing the circuit and allowing each respective color to light up. <br /> ::* Except for the data in and data out pads, the top and bottom sides of the driver board share the same connections.<br /> ::* The bottom side is clearly marked with an arrow to show the direction of data flow into the chip on the center pad. <br /> ::* Data is passed through the chip and on to the next chip via the data out pad on the top side of the board.<br /> ::* On a normal RGB pixel, three wires connect to the bottom side as "incoming power and data" and another three wires are connected to the top side of the board as "outgoing power and data" so that the wires can continue to the next pixel. These wires are often colored to help identify the wires but they may all be one color. In such cases, you must study the pixel carefully to try to read which wire is for which connection because the power and ground must be correct and the data must flow according to the arrow on the first pixel of a string; any other order won't work and may damage one or more pixels in the string.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:2-understanding.png| 300px | center]]<br /> ::* To create a mono-pixel string that has only one color (white in this example) yet use all 3 channels of each WS2811 chip, one solders a white LED in place of the red, and then carries the green and blue outputs to two more blank "carrier boards" where the 2nd and 3rd leds will be mounted. Further, the power, ground and data lines must also be brought forward so that the LED in the carrier boards can light as well as feed the ''next'' WS2811 chip in the string.<br /> ::* A five-conductor cable is required; suggested types are colored ribbon cable or cat5 cable to help keep the connections consistent.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:3-understanding.png| 500px | center]]<br /> ::* At the first led carrier board, all five incoming connections come in on one side and go out the other to the second led carrier. However, only the GND, Data and +V lines are used by the next WS2811 driver to connect to the 2nd carrier board.<br /> ::* For consistency, black was used as ground and red the +V line. (While the colors you use really don't matter, it's a good idea to adhere to as many normal colors for DC current as you can or at least be consistent with your choices.) Because the cabling was manufactured with green between the black and red, I chose green to carry the data line out of convenience.<br /> ::* In this example, the blue wire was connected to the "G" channel output of the WS2811 driver board; the white wire was connected to the "B" channel output. (Again, the cable manufacturer provided the cable colors -- I just kept them consistent throughout the project.)<br /> ::* At carrier board #1, the LED is soldered across the +V and "green" channel (blue wire, shown with purple lines in the picture).<br /> ::* All 5 lines should continue on to the 2nd carrier board although only 4 are required. It's just easier to stay consistent.<br /> ::* At carrier board #2, the LED is soldered across the +V and "blue" channel (white wire, shown with orange lines in the picture).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:9-prep.jpg| 800px |center]]<br /> ::* This becomes one completed, 3-led, 3-channel section of the mono-pixel string.<br /> ::* Notice that only three wires are connected to the WS2811 driver board (far right in the picture); these are the feed wires bringing power and data into the first chip of the mono-pixel string.<br /> ::* Notice that from the WS2811 driver board to the led carriers, the 5-line wire is used per the instructions above.<br /> ::* Building the string to the desired length is then as simple as connecting these 3-channel sections together. The order of the boards is DRIVER-carrier-carrier-DRIVER-carrier-carrier-DRIVER-carrier-carrier- etc. Connecting a driver board onto the 2nd carrier board of a section is easy: solder ground, data and +V to keep those three lines going to all boards in the string.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:4-understanding.png| 500px |center]]<br /> ::* In this example, the strings comprised four WS2811 driver boards and eight led carriers for a total of 12 boards, 12 lights. The total length of the string was 34" and was intended to be inserted into a candy cane. But it was desirable to daisy chain several candy canes together so that they could be sequenced and animated. Therefore, it was necessary to carry the data line through to the next candy cane so that connections could be made at the base of the candy cane.<br /> ::* The very LAST carrier board of the string included a single wire for the data line that was brought down the candy cane to the base so that a connector could be fashioned to connect to the next candy cane. A thin cat5 wire was used to make the connection.<br /> ::* The result was a candy cane that required only 12 channels to control (one channel for each led). It's certainly possible to use normal RGB pixels instead, but to produce white, it requires that all 3 channels of each pixel be on, and that's also three times the number of channels required for each candy cane. The mono-pixel string is more efficient in its use of channels.<br /> <br /> == Construction Tips ==<br /> <br /> :* Preparing for assembly is an important part of this project. A small dollop of solder on each of the solder pads helps a lot. Make sure you do both sides of the driver board. Soldering a tinned wire to a dollop of solder is quicker and lessens the potential of heat damage to the WS2811 chip.<br /> ::::[[File:1-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:2-prep.jpg |290px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* If you're planning to use ribbon cable, this kind of cable stripping tool is a real lifesaver and strips all the wires simultaneously. Cost is anywhere from $10-$25 on Amazon or eBay.<br /> ::::[[FIle:3-prep.jpg | 400px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* You'll want to tin the wires so they fit neatly through holes. Twisting the ends rarely works very well, especially with multi-conductor cable. Notice the blip of solder on the black cable: a simple swipe of the soldering iron from the insulation to the tip will smooth that out so it fits through a hole. Tinned wires also take to the dollops of solder faster which lessens heat to the WS2811 chip (which can damage the chip).<br /> ::::[[FIle:4-prep.jpg | 400px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* When soldering the cables to the led carriers, keep the same wire order throughout so you don't get confused. This carrier is ready for installing the LED. (Grelllbbb, DIGWDF's head engineer made these LED carriers capable of 6 lines on both the top and bottom of the 2-sided PCB. We've found them convenient for interconnecting many different types of cables in addition to their original use as a carrier for RGB or other LEDs. Actually, Grelllbbb is more of a head-case than a head engineer, but that's a story for another time... )<br /> ::::[[File:5-prep.jpg |310px]] [[File:6-prep.jpg |260px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* Here are a couple views of the WS2811 driver. Note that the inbound cable is soldered to the bottom and the outbound to the top keeping the colors the same to minimize confusion. A typical bullet pixel is soldered so both wires come out the bottom; since I wanted a linear string, I soldered the outbound wires upward so I wouldn't have to bend them upward, thus making for a smaller package. This is why normal pixels wouldn't fit inside these narrow candy canes.<br /> ::::[[File:7a-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:7b-prep.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* This WS2811 driver board is waiting for the LED to be soldered. It's a personal preference if you solder the led on either the top or bottom of the board. Instead of installing it flush onto the board, it's a good idea to leave enough of the led's solder legs so you can bend it to face in a different direction if you need to later.<br /> ::::[[File:8-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:Lights.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* When you connect the second led carrier to the next WS2811 driver board, only 3 wires are required. This carrier is waiting for its led, too.<br /> ::::[[File:10-prep.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* Here's a wiring layout of how the mono-pixel string is built.<br /> ::::[[File:Monopixel_wiring.png |800px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* In panels of WS2811 driver boards, the cost gets down to about $.15 per board -- and a benefit is they're already assembled. It's cheaper and easier to buy these than to design and fabricate your own. Purchase from eBay, or you might find them at aliexpress.com or even Amazon.<br /> ::::[[File:Pixelpcbs.JPG |500px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* If the LEDs you choose are too directional and you need more diffusion, rub the LED casings with some sandpaper to rough them up. This will disperse the light a little better. Clear on the left; sanded on the right.<br /> ::::[[File:Clear-sanded.jpg |500px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* To make inbound and outbound pluggable connections for the candy canes, I used an LED carrier as the "interface" and placed it inside and at the base of each candy cane. Note that the +V and GND cables are common and actually form a sort of power injection at each cane for better efficiency; the outgoing green data wire connects to the small cat5 cable that comes from the top LED in the cane to daisy chain to the next cane. (The blue wire is unused; it's just a pass-thru connection.) This is an example of another use for the LED carriers that was mentioned above.<br /> ::::[[File:Cable-2.jpg |420px]] [[File:Cable-1.jpg |390px]]<br /> <br /> == Candy Cane Base Mount ==<br /> A handy base mount can be fashioned out of PVC, a couple zip ties and some stiff wire. If you look closely, you'll see that the connection wires exit the sides through slots cut on either side of a short tube of PVC. The stiff wires were bent to fit into small holes that were drilled into the side along with small grooves to keep the wires in place. Then they were simply zip-tied to the tube. This base was preferred over the traditionally weak plastic spike that was originally provided with the plastic canes and allows the bases to be inserted into the ground separately, followed later by inserting the canes into the bases.<br /> <br /> [[File:IMG_0616.JPG | 400px]] [[File:IMG_0680.JPG | 350px]]<br /> <br /> == MonoPixel PCB ==<br /> <br /> ::DIGWDF created a flexible PCB which eliminates the hassle of manually wiring monopixels as shown above. The PCBs are 1/2" wide x 11" long and three or more can be daisy chained together and slid into a plastic cane in place of the manual wiring method. If the store link doesn't work (the store closed in 2018), the Gerbers are available from Dirknerkle via the forum. DIGWDF Store link: ''' http://digwdf.org/store/product.php?id_product=254 '''<br /> <br /> [[File:Monopixels.JPG | center | 800px]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Making/Wiring_Mono-Pixels&diff=3270 Making/Wiring Mono-Pixels 2026-04-16T17:46:36Z

<p>Dirknerkle: /* Understanding */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Candy_cane.png | 200px |right]]<br /> This is a tutorial on how to make a pixel string manually with regular, single-color LEDs instead of 3-color RGB LEDs. It's a rather labor-intensive project but once finished, the result is quite rewarding and along the way, you'll acquire worthwhile knowledge on how pixels work. You'll also acquire much-improved soldering skills!<br /> <br /> For this project, the author wanted to replace the incandescent mini-lights in some commercial candy canes with white leds, but also gain the ability to animate each cane individually. The diameter of each cane tube was too small for a normal RGB pixel to fit, and as the tubes were clear, red plastic, showing a green or blue from within wouldn't have worked very well anyway. So instead, the author chose to make his own. Click this link to view the working prototype: '''http://vimeo.com/214309360'''<br /> <br /> == Materials ==<br /> ::* Commercial plastic candy canes, about 27" tall. Purchase from Home Depot, Lowe's, Target, etc.<br /> ::* Common, clear lens white LEDs (12 per candy cane)<br /> ::* WS2811 driver boards (purchased off eBay) (4 per candy cane)<br /> ::* LED carrier boards (DIGWDF Store sells these, but you can also use common prototyping boards, 8 per candy cane)<br /> ::* 5-conductor ribbon cable (about 28" used per candy cane)<br /> ::* 4-pin male and female plugs (any kind will do)<br /> ::* ESPixelStick controller (to power and control them, but most any pixel controller will suffice)<br /> <br /> == Understanding ==<br /> <br /> To get started, let's understand how the pixel driver board works and how to wire it. At 5/16" wide and 1/2" tall, the driver board is quite tiny and consequently can be a bit testy to work with. This is the same driver board that's in most RGB bullet pixels and uses a single WS2811 chip. The top and bottom sides of the board are shown below along with the assignment of connections. This tutorial will use the 5vdc version of the driver board; pixels that use 12vdc use a variant of the same board but the differences are only to accommodate the larger voltage -- the same concepts presented here apply to the 12vdc version. The WS2811 chip has internal circuitry to serve as a constant-current driver that delivers 18.5ma of current to the three outputs; each chip requires three different channels to control its three outputs.<br /> <br /> [[File:1-understanding.png | 400px | center]]<br /> ::* The four holes along the top of the board are for the four pins of a common-anode RGB led; the RGB LED is soldered directly into these holes on a regular RGB pixel. Monopixels use only a white LED, which is soldered to either the R, G, or B and +V holes.<br /> ::* Because the board uses RGB leds of the a common-anode type, switching is done by taking the output control pins to ground, thereby completing the circuit and allowing each respective color to light up. <br /> ::* Except for the data in and data out pads, the top and bottom sides of the driver board share the same connections.<br /> ::* The bottom side is clearly marked with an arrow to show the direction of data flow into the chip on the center pad. <br /> ::* Data is passed through the chip and on to the next chip via the data out pad on the top side of the board.<br /> ::* On a normal RGB pixel, three wires connect to the bottom side as "incoming power and data" and another three wires are connected to the top side of the board as "outgoing power and data" so that the wires can continue to the next pixel. These wires are often colored to help identify the wires but they may all be one color. In such cases, you must study the pixel carefully to try to read which wire is for which connection because the power and ground must be correct and the data must flow according to the arrow on the first pixel of a string; any other order won't work and may damage one or more pixels in the string.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:2-understanding.png| 300px | center]]<br /> ::* To create a mono-pixel string that has only one color (white in this example) yet use all 3 channels of each WS2811 chip, one solders a white LED in place of the red, and then carries the green and blue outputs to two more blank "carrier boards" where the 2nd and 3rd leds will be mounted. Further, the power, ground and data lines must also be brought forward so that the LED in the carrier boards can light as well as feed the ''next'' WS2811 chip in the string.<br /> ::* A five-conductor cable is required; suggested types are colored ribbon cable or cat5 cable to help keep the connections consistent.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:3-understanding.png| 500px | center]]<br /> ::* At the first led carrier board, all five incoming connections come in on one side and go out the other to the second led carrier. However, only the GND, Data and +V lines are used by the next WS2811 driver to connect to the 2nd carrier board.<br /> ::* For consistency, black was used as ground and red the +V line. (While the colors you use really don't matter, it's a good idea to adhere to as many normal colors for DC current as you can or at least be consistent with your choices.) Because the cabling was manufactured with green between the black and red, I chose green to carry the data line out of convenience.<br /> ::* In this example, the blue wire was connected to the "G" channel output of the WS2811 driver board; the white wire was connected to the "B" channel output. (Again, the cable manufacturer provided the cable colors -- I just kept them consistent throughout the project.)<br /> ::* At carrier board #1, the LED is soldered across the +V and "green" channel (blue wire, shown with purple lines in the picture).<br /> ::* All 5 lines should continue on to the 2nd carrier board although only 4 are required. It's just easier to stay consistent.<br /> ::* At carrier board #2, the LED is soldered across the +V and "blue" channel (white wire, shown with orange lines in the picture).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:9-prep.jpg| 800px |center]]<br /> ::* This becomes one completed, 3-led, 3-channel section of the mono-pixel string.<br /> ::* Notice that only three wires are connected to the WS2811 driver board (far right in the picture); these are the feed wires bringing power and data into the first chip of the mono-pixel string.<br /> ::* Notice that from the WS2811 driver board to the led carriers, the 5-line wire is used per the instructions above.<br /> ::* Building the string to the desired length is then as simple as connecting these 3-channel sections together. The order of the boards is DRIVER-carrier-carrier-DRIVER-carrier-carrier-DRIVER-carrier-carrier- etc. Connecting a driver board onto the 2nd carrier board of a section is easy: solder ground, data and +V to keep those three lines going to all boards in the string.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:4-understanding.png| 500px |center]]<br /> ::* In this example, the strings comprised four WS2811 driver boards and eight led carriers for a total of 12 boards, 12 lights. The total length of the string was 34" and was intended to be inserted into a candy cane. But it was desirable to daisy chain several candy canes together so that they could be sequenced and animated. Therefore, it was necessary to carry the data line through to the next candy cane so that connections could be made at the base of the candy cane.<br /> ::* The very LAST carrier board of the string included a single wire for the data line that was brought down the candy cane to the base so that a connector could be fashioned to connect to the next candy cane. A thin cat5 wire was used to make the connection.<br /> ::* The result was a candy cane that required only 12 channels to control (one channel for each led). It's certainly possible to use normal RGB pixels instead, but to produce white, it requires that all 3 channels of each pixel be on, and that's also three times the number of channels required for each candy cane. The mono-pixel string is more efficient in its use of channels.<br /> <br /> == Construction Tips ==<br /> <br /> :* Preparing for assembly is an important part of this project. A small dollop of solder on each of the solder pads helps a lot. Make sure you do both sides of the driver board. Soldering a tinned wire to a dollop of solder is quicker and lessens the potential of heat damage to the WS2811 chip.<br /> ::::[[File:1-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:2-prep.jpg |290px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* If you're planning to use ribbon cable, this kind of cable stripping tool is a real lifesaver and strips all the wires simultaneously. Cost is anywhere from $10-$25 on Amazon or eBay.<br /> ::::[[FIle:3-prep.jpg | 400px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* You'll want to tin the wires so they fit neatly through holes. Twisting the ends rarely works very well, especially with multi-conductor cable. Notice the blip of solder on the black cable: a simple swipe of the soldering iron from the insulation to the tip will smooth that out so it fits through a hole. Tinned wires also take to the dollops of solder faster which lessens heat to the WS2811 chip (which can damage the chip).<br /> ::::[[FIle:4-prep.jpg | 400px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* When soldering the cables to the led carriers, keep the same wire order throughout so you don't get confused. This carrier is ready for installing the LED. (Grelllbbb, DIGWDF's head engineer made these LED carriers capable of 6 lines on both the top and bottom of the 2-sided PCB. We've found them convenient for interconnecting many different types of cables in addition to their original use as a carrier for RGB or other LEDs. Actually, Grelllbbb is more of a head-case than a head engineer, but that's a story for another time... )<br /> ::::[[File:5-prep.jpg |310px]] [[File:6-prep.jpg |260px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* Here are a couple views of the WS2811 driver. Note that the inbound cable is soldered to the bottom and the outbound to the top keeping the colors the same to minimize confusion. A typical bullet pixel is soldered so both wires come out the bottom; since I wanted a linear string, I soldered the outbound wires upward so I wouldn't have to bend them upward, thus making for a smaller package. This is why normal pixels wouldn't fit inside these narrow candy canes.<br /> ::::[[File:7a-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:7b-prep.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* This WS2811 driver board is waiting for the LED to be soldered. It's a personal preference if you solder the led on either the top or bottom of the board. Instead of installing it flush onto the board, it's a good idea to leave enough of the led's solder legs so you can bend it to face in a different direction if you need to later.<br /> ::::[[File:8-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:Lights.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* When you connect the second led carrier to the next WS2811 driver board, only 3 wires are required. This carrier is waiting for its led, too.<br /> ::::[[File:10-prep.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* Here's a wiring layout of how the mono-pixel string is built.<br /> ::::[[File:Monopixel_wiring.png |800px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* In panels of WS2811 driver boards, the cost gets down to about $.15 per board -- and a benefit is they're already assembled. It's cheaper and easier to buy these than to design and fabricate your own. Purchase from eBay, or you might find them at aliexpress.com or even Amazon.<br /> ::::[[File:Pixelpcbs.JPG |500px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* If the LEDs you choose are too directional and you need more diffusion, rub the LED casings with some sandpaper to rough them up. This will disperse the light a little better. Clear on the left; sanded on the right.<br /> ::::[[File:Clear-sanded.jpg |500px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* To make inbound and outbound pluggable connections for the candy canes, I used an LED carrier as the "interface" and placed it inside and at the base of each candy cane. Note that the +V and GND cables are common and actually form a sort of power injection at each cane for better efficiency; the outgoing green data wire connects to the small cat5 cable that comes from the top LED in the cane to daisy chain to the next cane. (The blue wire is unused; it's just a pass-thru connection.) This is an example of another use for the LED carriers that was mentioned above.<br /> ::::[[File:Cable-2.jpg |420px]] [[File:Cable-1.jpg |390px]]<br /> <br /> == Candy Cane Base Mount ==<br /> A handy base mount can be fashioned out of PVC, a couple zip ties and some stiff wire. If you look closely, you'll see that the connection wires exit the sides through slots cut on either side of a short tube of PVC. The stiff wires were bent to fit into small holes that were drilled into the side along with small grooves to keep the wires in place. Then they were simply zip-tied to the tube. This base was preferred over the traditionally weak plastic spike that was originally provided with the plastic canes and allows the bases to be inserted into the ground separately, followed later by inserting the canes into the bases.<br /> <br /> [[File:IMG_0616.JPG | 400px]] [[File:IMG_0680.JPG | 350px]]<br /> <br /> == MonoPixel PCB ==<br /> <br /> ::DIGWDF created a flexible PCB which eliminates the hassle of manually wiring monopixels as shown above. The PCBs are 1/2" wide x 11" long and three or more can be daisy chained together and slid into a plastic cane in place of the manual wiring method. If the store link doesn't work (the store closed in 2018), the Gerbers are available from Dirknerkle via the forum. DIGWDF Store link: ''' http://digwdf.org/store/product.php?id_product=254 '''<br /> <br /> [[File:Monopixels.JPG | center | 800px]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Wiring_a_Pixel_to_an_external_SSR&diff=3269 Wiring a Pixel to an external SSR 2026-04-16T17:40:49Z

<p>Dirknerkle: /* Power Injection */</p> <hr /> <div>It's possible to rewire a pixel to drive 3 channels of a DC SSR instead of the RGB LED. By so doing, you can gain control to other devices by using your normal pixel control data stream. A caveat is that in your sequencing, you need to remember which channels these devices are so you don't get confused. This example uses the Bullet or Square pixel using the WS2811 chip as the example and 5vdc power. Pixels that are powered via 12vdc may not work with this method unless the measured output voltage from the WS2811 chip doesn't exceed what the DC SSR can use as its control signal, which is usually 5vdc.<br /> <br /> == How an WS2811 Chip Works ==<br /> ::First, let's understand how a WS2811 chip works by looking at the PCB for a typical square pixel:<br /> <br /> ::::::[[File:Guts-4.png|200px]]<br /> ::Notice there are TWO ground pads, TWO 5v pads, a DI (data in) and a DO (data out) pad, and arrows that indicate the direction of the data flow. Also notice the four holes intended for a common anode RGB led (R, +, G, B). Data, power and ground comes into the chip, the chip lights the appropriate color of the LED, and extra data, power and ground goes back out to the next pixel in line. <br /> <br /> ::::::[[File:Bullet_pixel.png|200px]]<br /> ::A round bullet pixel has the same connection pads and the only difference is that they're on either side of the PCB instead of all on the bottom side.<br /> <br /> == Wiring Connections ==<br /> ::Here's a look at how a bullet pixel is wired -- if you recall, 3 wires come into the pixel and 3 wires go out to the next one. Notice that there's a DI and a DO connection for data. DI = INCOMING data, DO = OUTGOING data (i.e. to the next pixel).<br /> ::::::[[File:Guts-1.png |160px ]] [[File:Guts-2.png | 160px]]<br /> <br /> ::In place of the RGB Led, connect the WS2811 to a cat5 wire as follows:<br /> <br /> ::::::[[File:To_cat5.png | 200px]]<br /> <br /> ::How this works is that since a pixel requires three channels to light the LED, connecting the LED outputs to a CAT5 cable instead of to an LED and plugging that cable into a DC SSR gives you 3 channels of complete control, including dimming capability. Slick! Optionally, if the SSR needs a ground connection on pin 7 so that the SSR's status light pops on, solder the brown/white wire of the cat5 cable to the ground connection on either side of the WS2811 chip. Also note that if the order of "colors" for the WS2811 chip is RGB, the "red" would equate to channel A of the SSR, "green" would be channel B and "blue" would be channel C. If the order is GBR or some other order, then of course the order of the channels for your control would be different and you may wish to wire the cat5 cable differently.<br /> <br /> ::Does this also work with AC SSRs? Yes and no: yes you will have simple on/off control with an AC SSR, but no, you won't have dimming ability.<br /> <br /> == Power Injection ==<br /> <br /> ::It's a good idea to consider injecting power to the WS2811 chip as well because of the potential distance between the chip and the external SSR and the resulting resistance of the wire. Your mileage may vary, but if you find the external SSR doesn't fire on cue, it's probably because power injection is needed. When a string of pixels is lit for full white (all pixels at 100%), if the resulting color is slightly pink, then power injection is a must; the pink color results from low current. Usually, injecting power at both ends of the string solves the problem.<br /> <br /> == Cat5 Wire Length ==<br /> <br /> The WS2811 chip puts out 18.5ma per channel, and as such, the control signal should be able to go quite a distance to a remote SSR. When one considers that a typical PIC outputs about 10ma/pin, a signal with nearly twice the current strength should be viable for at least as far as a control signal from a PIC-based controller.<br /> <br /> == Sample Finished Cable ==<br /> <br /> ::Here's a finished cable that's designed to be plugged into the END of a string of pixels. The author chose to plug it into the end as opposed to between strings because it was easier to keep track of the 3 channels. Also note the additional wire used for power injection.<br /> <br /> [[File:NoPIC-3.jpg |600px|center]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=ESP_Basics&diff=3268 ESP Basics 2026-04-16T17:34:35Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>The ESP8266 chip incorporates complete WiFi capability in a tiny package that's about 1/4" square. The chip is used on several versions of ESP modules, such as the popular and inexpensive ESP-01 version, shown below:<br /> <br /> [[file:Esp8266_module.jpg | 256px]]<br /> <br /> The module is programmable using the Arduino interface and since introduced in 2013, a great many Arduino interface add-ons and applications have been written for it.<br /> <br /> A few basic things to know about the ESP module:<br /> <br /> :* It is a 3.3v chip. It does not tolerate higher voltages well, even for short periods of time. Before connecting to an ESP module, verify that your voltage is 3.3v or the chip may be damaged as soon as power is applied.<br /> <br /> :* It is power-hungry: it generally requires 250-300ma of current during startup and operation. If the available current drops out of the required range, the ESP module usually disconnects from any network connection; afterwards, it does not reconnect on its own and usually must be restarted.<br /> <br /> :* It usually connects to an access point or wireless router rather quickly, but if it can't find one within 4-5 seconds, it gives up trying and power-cycling the unit is about the only way to restart it.<br /> <br /> :* Several manufacturers produce modules that incorporate the ESP8266 chip; not all are the same. For example, some may provide two LEDs on the module, one for power and one that monitors the TX line while other manufacturers may use only one LED that serves both functions. Therefore, the LED display from one can appear completely different than another, leading you to believe the module may not be functioning properly when it's perfectly fine.<br /> <br /> :* The modules are relatively easily damaged by static electricity, power surges or rough handling. Plugging a new module into a live circuit is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :* As they can be quite inexpensive (< $2 each) having several replacement spares is a good idea, especially for an experimenter. Virtually all of them are manufactured in China, so allow for adequate delivery time.<br /> <br /> :* The modules use an external flash memory chip which is key to the operation of the ESP8266 chip. Users have experienced problems with modules manufactured with the PUYA memory chip. The symptoms are that either one can't connect to the chip or that the chip's SPIFFS memory cannot be used, which may be a requirement for some versions of custom ESP firmware (such as the ESPixelStick firmware). Modules known to be suitable for use have the BGMicro, cFEON or WinBond memory chips (there may also be other types that are acceptable).<br /> <br /> :* The blue modules generally have 512k memory; black modules usually have 1m or greater memory. The black ESP-01S modules have larger memory and can accommodate the version 4 ESPixelStick firmware. (The ESPixelStick firmware requires 1mb or greater memory).</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=ESP_Basics&diff=3267 ESP Basics 2026-04-16T17:31:48Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>The ESP8266 chip incorporates complete WiFi capability in a tiny package that's about 1/4" square. The chip is used on several versions of ESP modules, such as the popular and inexpensive ESP-01 version, shown below:<br /> <br /> [[file:Esp8266_module.jpg | 256px]]<br /> <br /> The module is programmable using the Arduino interface and since introduced in 2013, a great many Arduino interface add-ons and applications have been written for it.<br /> <br /> A few basic things to know about the ESP module:<br /> <br /> :* It is a 3.3v chip. It does not tolerate higher voltages well, even for short periods of time. Before connecting to an ESP module, verify that your voltage is 3.3v or the chip may be damaged as soon as power is applied.<br /> <br /> :* It is power-hungry: it generally requires 250-300ma of current during startup and operation. If the available current drops out of the required range, the ESP module usually disconnects from any network connection; afterwards, it does not reconnect on its own and usually must be restarted.<br /> <br /> :* It usually connects to an access point or wireless router rather quickly, but if it can't find one within 4-5 seconds, it gives up trying and power-cycling the unit is about the only way to restart it.<br /> <br /> :* Several manufacturers produce modules that incorporate the ESP8266 chip; not all are the same. For example, some may provide two LEDs on the module, one for power and one that monitors the TX line while other manufacturers may use only one LED that serves both functions. Therefore, the LED display from one can appear completely different than another, leading you to believe the module may not be functioning properly when it's perfectly fine.<br /> <br /> :* The modules are relatively easily damaged by static electricity, power surges or rough handling. Plugging a new module into a live circuit is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :* As they can be quite inexpensive (< $2 each) having several replacement spares is a good idea, especially for an experimenter. Virtually all of them are manufactured in China, so allow for adequate delivery time.<br /> <br /> :* The modules use an external flash memory chip which is key to the operation of the ESP8266 chip. Users have experienced problems with modules manufactured with the PUYA memory chip. The symptoms are that either one can't connect to the chip or that the chip's SPIFFS memory cannot be used, which may be a requirement for some versions of custom ESP firmware (such as the ESPixelStick firmware). Modules known to be suitable for use have the BGMicro, cFEON or WinBond memory chips (there may also be other types that are acceptable).<br /> <br /> :* The blue modules generally have 512k memory; black modules usually have 1m or greater memory. The black 01S modules sometimes have larger memory. (The ESPixelStick firmware requires the larger memory).</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Terminology/Definitions&diff=3266 Terminology/Definitions 2026-04-16T17:21:16Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>This page is a constant work in progress as the hobby is constantly changing.<br /> {{Compact_ToC}}<br /> == A ==<br /> '''AC — alternating current.''' An electrical current that reverses directions at regular intervals. Wall power, or mains, is AC and in North America, it cycles 60 times per second, while in England and Australia, it cycles 50 times per second.<br /> <br /> '''Arduino.''' An Open Source system for developing microprocessor-controlled projects, including a reference design for a project board, as well as an integrated development environment (IDE) that supports an easy-to-use programming language and linking to the Atmel firmware development chain. Further, a series of printed-circuit boards that can plug into the Arduino board — called “shields” — have been developed for the project boards, extending the capabilities of the project environment.<br /> <br /> '''ATmega.''' A brand of microcontroller developed and sold by Atmel Corp. The Arduino line of project boards uses ATmega microprocessors (the 168, 328p, 1280 and 2560, depending upon the Arduino model). ATMega chips have an entire different firmware development chain than chips from [[Terminology/Definitions#M|Microchip Technology]] and therefore can’t share code.<br /> <br /> '''Audacity.''' Open Source audio editing application available for a variety of personal computer operating systems. See http://www.audacityteam.org/.<br /> <br /> '''AusChristmas.''' A [http://www.auschristmaslighting.com/ web forum] that focuses on Christmas lights in Australia.<br /> <br /> '''Amps (amperes).''' A unit of electrical current, an amp is the amount of electricity being drawn through the power system. A product that draws 10 amps uses twice as much electricity as a product that draws five amps. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#E|Electricity basics]].<br /> <br /> == B ==<br /> '''BBB/BBG - Beaglebone Black/Beaglebone Green''' A system on a chip board, these are used for running falcon player (FPP) software to run your show. These microcomputers are very powerful and have numerous capes that attach to them allowing them to do a myriad of things for your show <br /> <br /> '''BNC — bayonet nut connection.''' A type of common radio frequency connector used on coaxial cables. See [[Terminology/Definitions#R|RG-58]].<br /> <br /> '''Board.''' A shortened term for 'circuit board,' which is a thin layer of fiberglass or other material that has electrical circuitry fused to it. Electronic components are soldered to the 'board' circuitry to create electronic devices such as controllers.<br /> <br /> '''BOM — bill of materials.''' A list of parts — including quantities, manufacturers and serial numbers — needed to build a specific project.<br /> <br /> == C ==<br /> '''C7, C9 light bulbs.''' Known as the “traditional” Christmas light, these types of strings had their hey-day in the 1950s and 1960s. Many lighting hobbyists switched to “mini” bulbs in the 1970s. The C7 bulb is about 2-inches tall, while the C9 is about 3-inches tall. The C7 uses the candelabra base, while the C9 uses the intermediate base (both of which are [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edison_screw Edison screw] types). Both sizes come in both clear and opaque colors and both come in 7-watt versions, while the C7 comes in a 2.5-watt version and the C9 in a 3.5-watt version. The maximum number of 2.5-watt lamps per 15-amp circuit is about 575 (or 765 lamps per 20-amp circuit) or 300 lamps per outlet, while the maximum number of 7-watt lamps per 15-amp circuit is about 200 (274 per 20-amp circuit) or about 125 lamps per outlet. These terms have also been appropriated by [[Terminology/Definitions#L|LED]] Christmas-light makers and therefore C7 and C9 LEDs are also available.<br /> <br /> '''Capacitor.''' An electrical component that stores an electric charge and releases it when its needed. Typically used in Christmas lighting as a filter in power supply circuits.<br /> <br /> '''Cat3, Cat5, Cat5e, Cat6.''' Traditionally used as the cable in Ethernet networking, “Cat” is short for “category” and the numbers refer to different signaling standards. Cat5 cable has four pairs of 22- to 24-gauge wires, usually designated by the colors orange, green, blue and brown; each colored wire in the pair has a solid color and the same color with a white stripe. The orange/orange-white pair in Cat5 is twisted, while all the pairs in Cat5e and Cat6 are twisted.<br /> <br /> '''Channel.''' In Christmas lighting, the method of identifying a lighting element in sequencing software. An element can be an individual lamp (such as in a smart pixel) or a string of lights.<br /> <br /> '''Circuit.''' The path (usually wire) through which current flows between an electrical energy source and an electrical device, appliance or fixture.<br /> <br /> '''Co-op.''' See [[Terminology/Definitions#G|group buy]].<br /> <br /> '''Color organ.''' An electronic device that takes in audio signals and automatically outputs digital signals that can be assigned to lights. While a color organ can be designed to respond to music, the result isn’t as appealing as a song sequenced by a person.<br /> <br /> '''Controller.''' A device that accepts signals from a computer running a lighting sequencer and controls lights based on those signals (turning them on or off, dimming up or dimming down).<br /> <br /> '''Current.''' The amount of electricity flowing through a circuit, measured in [[Terminology/Definitions#A|Amperes]] (A), milliamperes (ma) or microamperes (ua).<br /> <br /> == D ==<br /> '''dB — decibel.''' A unit of relative sound or radio transmission intensity.<br /> <br /> '''DC — direct current.''' An electrical current that flows continuously in one direction. Batteries and fuel cells produce direct current and alternating current can be rectified and changed into direct current with diodes.<br /> <br /> '''Decoupling capacitor.''' A capacitor that is included in circuits with microcontrollers to insure that voltages don’t dip and spike elsewhere around the circuit because of the needs of the microcontroller. Like a water tower in a community, the circuit slowly fills up the decoupling cap with electricity. When the microcontroller needs a burst of energy (or, in the analogy, if somebody needs to flush three toilets at once), the decoupling cap provides the needed energy without the water pressure throughout the community dropping.<br /> <br /> '''DIGWDF Store''' The on-line store that once produced weird yet curiously helpful circuits, adapters and gizmos that helped DIY'ers create customized solutions to blinky-flashy problems. DIGWDF had three main engineers, Grelllbbb, Hngnnorrgg and Fffllleeennnkkk, and the three of them collaborated and do most of the creative work. Periodically they posted information in the forum in a language that has been termed "Lutefisk-ese." It's a somewhat phonetic language that takes getting used to, which seems somewhat consistent with the various weird adventures the engineers got into from time to time... And those are all meant to be taken tongue-in-cheek... What IS true however is that ALL profits from the DIGWDF Store, however small, were directed toward the expenses of running the diychristmas.org site and forum. Sadly, the DIGWDF Store closed operations on Dec 31, 2018.<br /> <br /> '''Diode.''' An electrical device that will allow current to pass in only one direction.<br /> <br /> '''DIP — dual in-line package.''' A method of mounting integrated circuits, microcontrollers and other electronics components on printed circuit boards. Sometimes called “through-hole package,” because holes are drilled in the PC boards and the package is soldered to the board on the side opposite the package. Compare this with “surface mount,” where components are mounted to the PC board on its top side by soldering leads directly to pads.<br /> <br /> '''Dipole.''' A basic radio antenna that consists of two elements, each of equal length. The length of the elements is an algorithmic function of the frequency over which the broadcast is being made. It’s used in Christmas light shows by FM transmitters to broadcast music.<br /> <br /> '''DirkCheap.''' A concept and philosopy that Dirknerkle used to help lower the cost of participating in this hobby. It applies to several products the DIGWDF engineers created, such as the DirkCheapSSR, a no-frills 4-channel unit that is "dirt cheap" to make... In most cases, "DirkCheap" products used minimal parts due to their extra-sparse designs, such as no protective fusing or terminal blocks for convenience. It was the end-user's responsibility to address these issues on his/her own. The first product to carry this moniker was indeed the DirkCheapSSR, which lowered the DIYer's cost per A/C control channel by almost 70%, down to less than $1/channel.<br /> <br /> '''Dirknerkle.''' The original patron saint of this site, which started in November 2011. Dirk also was the proprietor of The DIGWDF Store [http://digwdf.org/ Dirknerkle’s Inventorium and Generally Worthless Device Factory], an online store that provided items of greater or lesser interest to holiday lighting enthusiasts. (based on sales totals, mostly lesser...)<br /> <br /> '''DIYC.''' Can refer to either [http://www.DoitYourselfChristmas.com DoitYourselfChristmas.com] or [http://www.DIYChristmas.org DIYChristmas.org].<br /> <br /> '''DMX (also known as DMX-512).''' Digital MultipleX. A theater and stage-lighting system based on the RS485 differential signaling electrical communications system that supports controlling light intensity across 255 steps. The system supports 512 different channels (called a “universe”) of lighting control and larger numbers of devices can be controlled by adding more transmitting controllers. Receiving controllers are daisy-chained together with each controller receiving and processing all 512 channels, but only acting upon those channels to which it has been assigned. Traditional DMX-512 uses five-pin XLR connectors, while in holiday-lighting [[Terminology/Definitions#C|Cat5]] cable and [[Terminology/Definitions#R|RJ45]] telecommunications products have been adopted. Renard DMX is one implementation of the DMX protocol that's designed for Renard-type controllers.<br /> <br /> == E ==<br /> '''E1.31.''' A digital standard protocol for transmitting [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX-512]] data over Ethernet networks.<br /> <br /> '''EDM Design.''' A South African company that makes low-powered FM transmitters. While these are sold in the United States as “[http://www.edmdesign.com/orders-1.html kits]” — a term used to skirt FCC regulations — 99 percent of the transmitter comes completed.<br /> <br /> '''Electricity basics.''' The flow of electrons typically over wire, electricity is energy converted from fuels or natural resources and distributed to homes and businesses via a grid of utility companies. Electricity has three basic units: voltage, current (measured in amps) and resistance (measured in ohms). The basic equation of electrical engineering is that amps = volts divided by ohms. The fourth basic element of electricity is watts, which is volts times amps. The most common analogy used to describe electricity is that of plumbing and water: the pressure of water in a pipe is like voltage, while the flow of the water in a pipe is like amps.<br /> <br /> '''Electrolytic.''' A type of fixed capacitor. See [[Terminology/Definitions#C|capacitor]].<br /> <br /> '''Endless loop.''' A mistake in computer programming where instructions circle back and forth, never ending. See [[Terminology/Definitions#I|infinite loop]].<br /> <br /> '''Engineer.''' One who designs, builds, invents, maintains or otherwise creates or supervises processes, structures, machines, devices, materials and/or systems. At DIGWDF (see [[Terminology/Definitions#D|Dirknerkle]]), staff engineers include Fffllleeennnkkk, Grelllbbbb and Hngnnorrgg. They were supervised by Mr. Nerkle and Monica Momglobs, the DIGWDF receptionist.<br /> <br /> == F ==<br /> '''Farad.''' A unit of measurement for electrical capacitance. See [[Terminology/Definitions#C|capacitor]].<br /> <br /> '''FCC — The Federal Communications Commission.''' The FCC was established by the Communications Act of 1934 and is charged with regulating interstate and international communications by radio, television, wire (telegraph, telephone), satellite and cable.<br /> <br /> '''FCC Part 15.''' A section of the Federal Communications Commission’s rules and regulations that deals mainly with unlicensed transmissions. In the Christmas light world, FCC Part 15 is discussed because it regulates the way low-power FM transmitters, which are used in the Christmas lights community to broadcast the music that accompanies the light shows, should work. The general consensus in our community is that one way of measuring whether an FM transmitter might meet Part 15 rules is that it should not transmit further than 250 feet away from its antenna.<br /> <br /> '''Firmware.''' The set of instructions input into a microprocessor. Firmware is usually developed on a personal computer, compiled into assembly code and uploaded to the microprocessor.<br /> <br /> '''FM02.''' An inexpensive a low-powered FM radio transmitter that meets FCC Part 15 rule. Unfortunately, it was no longer manufactured after 2014. Also see [[Terminology/Definitions#V|Vastelec]].<br /> <br /> '''FPP - Falcon player''' Falcon player formerly known as Falcon Pi Player hence the fpp designation, is a linux based scheduling software ran on a Beaglebone Black or green (BBB/BBG) or Raspberry Pi system on a chip (soc) microcomputer. This is capable of running your entire show on one of these inexpensive boards. The Beaglebones have 1 usb and 1 ethernet out with no onboard sound, the Raspberry Pi's on the other hand have 2 to 4 usb outs, 1 ethernet out, and onboard sound, the latest version of the Pi has built in wifi. <br /> <br /> '''Full wave.''' A method of converting AC to DC using a rectifying circuit of a group of four diodes, called a bridge. A bridge rectifier can be a single component.<br /> <br /> '''Fuse.''' A device designed to make electronic and electrical circuits safer by breaking (“blowing”) in the event of an electrical short circuit or overload. A fuse will blow before wires become so hot they catch on fire.<br /> <br /> == G ==<br /> '''Gerber Files.''' - The standard file formats that PCB production facilities use to set up their equipment to manufacture the boards. Usually provided as a set of 8 or sometimes more files; each file describes a specific layer of the PCB, such as the top copper layer (GTL), bottom copper layer GBL), top solder mask (GTS), bottom solder mask (GBS), top silkscreen (GTO), bottom silkscreen (GBO), drill hole sizes (TXT or DRL) and a mechanical (outside dimension, GML) layer. Gerber files are generally produced by PCB design software as an export function.<br /> <br /> '''GFCI — ground fault circuit interrupter.''' An electrical safety device installed in a power panel, sub-panel or outlet box that instantly shuts off the electricity when a leakage to ground occurs. This leakage can increase the risk of electrical shock. A GFCI should be used in all outdoor high-voltage environments and the device should be tested on a regular basis.<br /> <br /> '''Grelllbbbdweeno''' - A variant of the Arduino, this is a stripped-down version without the bells and whistles that can be used to build into projects. It was invented by Grelllbbb, one of the DIGWDF engineers.<br /> <br /> '''Grounded/grounding.''' A conducting connection, whether intentional or accidental, by which an electric circuit or equipment is connected to the earth, or to some conducting body of relatively large extent that serves in place of the earth.<br /> <br /> '''Group buy.''' Volunteers take the initiative to gather the components of a project and resell them to other hobbyists. Because electronics retailers and wholesalers frequently give quantity discounts, a group buy leverages the buying power of members of the community, delivering lower prices for a project.<br /> <br /> == H ==<br /> '''HC595.''' A serial, shift-register microchip that can control up to eight different devices. HC595 chips can be connected in series, allowing for an almost infinite number of devices to be controlled through the serial output pin of a microcontroller. This microchip is made by a variety of manufacturers using a variety of different names, though they always have “595” in them.<br /> <br /> '''Half wave.''' See [[Terminology/Definitions#F|full wave]]. In Christmas lighting, term used to refer to strings of LEDs that don’t have a rectifier included.<br /> <br /> '''Heat sink.''' A piece of metal attached to an electronics component — microprocessor, microcontroller, Triac, optoisolator — that serves to dissipate or absorb unwanted heat. Many electronics components have two ratings, a lower one when a heat sink is not used and a higher one where a heat sink is in place. Also called a dissipator. ('''Note:''' This term is often misspelled as "heat sync" which doesn't make any sense at all.)<br /> <br /> == I ==<br /> '''IC — integrated circuit.''' An electronic component in which many elements are fabricated and interconnected by a single process (into a single chip), as opposed to a “nonintegrated” circuit in which the transistors, diodes, resistors and other components are fabricated separately and then assembled. Elements inseparably associated and formed on or within a single substrate.<br /> <br /> '''Infinite loop.''' A mistake in computer programming where instructions circle back and forth, never ending. See [[Terminology/Definitions#U|unproductive loop]].<br /> <br /> == J ==<br /> '''Jumper.''' A connector on a printed circuit board that allows two parts of a circuit to be completed. Also, a short length of wire to complete a circuit.<br /> <br /> == K ==<br /> '''Komby.''' A holiday lighting system based on the Arduino platform that sends lighting commands wirelessly via 2.5MHz radio frequency using the [[Terminology/Definitions#N|nRF24l01]] transceiver. Input can be in a variety of protocols ([[Terminology/Definitions#R|Renard]], [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX-512]], [[Terminology/Definitions#E|E1.31]]) and various outputs are also supported (Renard, DMX-512, smart pixels). Named after hobbyist Greg Scull, the primary developer, whose childhood nickname was “[http://www.komby.com Komby].”<br /> <br /> == L ==<br /> '''LED — light emitting diode.''' A solid-state, semiconductor device that converts electrical energy directly into light. LEDs show up in Christmas lighting in two contexts: the first is as a power or signal indicator in controllers or SSRs, while the second is their use as a substitute for incandescent lamps. LED Christmas light strings use about one-tenth the energy of an incandescent lamp and have an extraordinary life span (some makers claim as many as 20,000-50,000 hours of use).<br /> <br /> '''Lutefisk.''' The main dish in the official Christmas holiday meal of DIYC.org; a Scandinavian delicacy. Lutefisk is cod fish that has been air-dried to preserve it. Prior to cooking, it must be reconstituted by soaking for days in a lye solution and then rinsed thoroughly before being cooked for the meal -- preferably steamed. It has the consistency of a gelatin dessert -- some call it "fish jello." It is said that half the Scandinavians who came to America came to escape lutefisk and the other half came to proselytize on its behalf. In any event, it's truly something of an experience... The three stages of eating lutefisk are as follows:<br /> <br /> [[file: Three stages of lutefisk.jpg| center]]<br /> <br /> '''Lynx.''' A group of holiday lighting products developed by hobbyist Robert Jordan. Initially based on DMX-512, the Lynx product line now supports both wireless transmissions as well as driving smart pixels. The most popular of the Lynx products is the [http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=ExpressUse Express], a 16-channel AC controller.<br /> <br /> == M ==<br /> '''M5.''' A type of [[Terminology/Definitions#L|LED]] Christmas light that is modeled after mini-lights. Typically, an M5 has a faceted cover and 110v AC strings come in 30, 50, 70, 90, 100 or 120 bulbs. These strings are made of combination series/parallel circuit construction and use resistors to compensate for the difference between the total bulb count and the input voltage. Commercial M5 strings are usually [[Terminology/Definitions#F|full wave]], while hardware or drug store strings are usually [[Terminology/Definitions#H|half wave]].<br /> <br /> '''Mains.''' The alternating current electricity provided by the utility company; a Britishism/Aussy slang for the American phrase “wall power.” In North America, typically 120 volts, AC. In the United Kingdom and Australia, typically 240 volts, AC.<br /> <br /> '''Microchip Technology Inc.''' [http://http://www.microchip.com/ Maker] of the [[Terminology/Definitions#P|PIC]] line of microcontrollers.<br /> <br /> '''Microcontroller.''' A computer-on-a-chip that emphasizes high integration, low power consumption, self-sufficiency and relatively low cost. Typically, a microcontroller has flash-type read-write memory allowing a programming station (usually called a PIC programmer) to enter in task-specific programs, which can be written in programming languages such as C, C++, BASIC or even in assembly code (which, of course, is the most efficient).<br /> <br /> '''Mini-lights.''' Holiday lighting incandescent bulbs that are about 7/32nds of an inch in diameter, they come in strings as short as 35 bulbs and as long as 400 bulbs, officially known as the T1-3/4. The strings are wired in series and parallel, usually in 50-bulb groups (the 50 bulbs are in series which are then wired parallel to the others, making 100-, 150-, 200-, 250-, 300-, 350- or 400-bulb strings). Pretty universally, strings that are grouped by 50 bulbs can be cut down to single 50-bulb strings. Mini-lights that are grouped by 50s use 2.5-volt, 170 mA bulbs, while 35-bulb strings use 3.5-volt bulbs. Colored mini-light bulbs are traditionally painted with a transparent paint, which can under certain weather conditions chip or fade.<br /> <br /> '''MOC3023.''' A 6-Pin DIP 400V Random Phase Triac Driver Output Optocoupler from Fairchild Semiconductor. It provides both [[Terminology/Definitions#T|Triac]] services and [[Terminology/Definitions#O|optoisolator]] services in one package.<br /> <br /> '''MORON.''' What other DIY'ers will think of you if you don't RTFM (see below).<br /> <br /> == N ==<br /> '''nRF24l01.''' A type of digital radio transceiver that supports transmission rates up to 2 megabits per second, using the 2.4GHz frequency, manufactured by Nordic Semiconductor. The radio is made as a 4mm x 4mm QFN surface-mount chip and requires certain additional components to operate. It only became popular when it was packaged in a small, pre-built printed circuit board with an antenna (or antenna connector) and an eight-pin connector. Has an effective range of about 250-500 feet in line-of-site environments. Used in the [http://www.komby.com Komby] line of wireless Christmas-lighting controllers.<br /> <br /> '''NOP.''' A "no-op" or "no-operation" command is often used in assembly language programming to cause the CPU to use-up one or more clock cycles just doing basically nothing. In this way, one can tweak the exact timing of a chip's CPU to better match a needed circuit function.<br /> <br /> '''Null pixel.''' In instances where the first pixel of the display and the controller are too far apart, a “null pixel” is included halfway in between in order to boost the signal. The device is usually just the [[Terminology/Definitions#P|pixel]] controlling chip without the [[Terminology/Definitions#L|LEDs]].<br /> <br /> == O ==<br /> '''Ohms.''' The measure of resistance to the flow of an electric current (the resistance through which one volt will force one amp). Resistors in electronic circuits are measured in ohms, as is the voltage drop of an electrical wire. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#E|Electricity basics]].<br /> <br /> '''Optoisolator (opto, optocoupler).''' A device that insures that a non-electrical barrier exists between a high-voltage environment and a low-voltage environment. It usually has some type of emitter — like an LED or a neon bulb — and an optical receiving element with a little dark tunnel between them. The high voltage causes the LED to brighten and that light then drives the low-voltage optical receiver. This way wall plug voltage doesn’t stream down low-voltage wires and into your controller or PC.<br /> <br /> '''Oscillator.''' A circuit that produces a sustained AC waveform with no external input signal. Oscillators can be designed to produce sine waves, square waves, or other wave shapes. They are typically used in Christmas lighting to produce fading and dimming.<br /> <br /> == P ==<br /> '''PCB — printed circuit board.''' An electronics board that contains layers of circuitry that connect the various components of a system. A PCB can be mass manufactured or can be “home etched,” where a hobbyist transfers the design of the PCB to a copper-clad board, uses caustic chemicals to etch away the areas not needed and then drills the holes him or herself.<br /> <br /> '''PIC.''' A brand name for microcontrollers from Microchip Technology Inc., it has become a generic term for any microcontroller, which is a computer-on-a-chip. Importantly, the development chain for the PIC is different from that of other microcontrollers (such as the ATmega series), so the underlying code of firmware cannot be shared between chip families.<br /> <br /> '''Pixel.''' In computer graphics, a picture element. On most digital screens, a single spot on the monitor. In holiday lighting, an LED that has three colors (red, green, blue), either controlled as a group (“dumb pixels”) or as a single element (“smart pixels”). Holiday-light pixels are available in a number of form factors, including strips, strings of rectangular pixels, strings of “bullet” pixels, strings of “square” pixels and strings of “C9” pixels.<br /> <br /> '''POD — power over DMX.''' Using [[Terminology/Definitions#R|RJ45]] connectors and [[Terminology/Definitions#C|Cat5]] cabling, 12-volt power is sent over three of the eight pairs of wires, while [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX-512]] signal is sent over two of the wires. The orange and orange-white wires carry the DMX, while the solid green, blue and brown wires carry 12-volts negative and the white-green, white-blue and white-brown wires carry 12-volts positive. Developed by Dave Moore of [http://www.holidaycoro.com/kb_results.asp?ID=92 HolidayCoro.com].<br /> <br /> '''Polarity.''' The electrical condition of being either positive or negative. The direction of current between two leads or the direction of a magnetic field.<br /> <br /> '''Programmer.''' A device that connects to a personal computer to a microcontroller to download an application from the PC to the chip. See PIC.<br /> <br /> '''Protocol.''' The data "language" that is used between devices so that they can communicate with one another. Examples are RS-232, RS-485, RS-422, Ethernet, Renard, DMX, E1.31, SACN, etc. Devices must be using the same protocol to be able to communicate. For example, a device that's sending data in the RS-232 format cannot be understood by a device that's expecting to receive DMX data.<br /> <br /> '''PWM — pulse width modulation.''' A method of controlling analog devices with digital signals; used in dimming lights and the speed of small DC motors. Rather than increasing or decreasing voltage, PWM controls the number of time segments the full voltage is applied (in microseconds).<br /> <br /> == Q ==<br /> '''Question.''' Things that you are free and encouraged to ask about the hobby or how to do it. Answering them is what our users are here to do. Our motto is, "There's no such thing as a dumb question."<br /> <br /> == R ==<br /> '''Ramsey Electronics.''' former maker of FM radio transmitter and other electronic kits. Ramsey is out of business but some of its kits are carried by HobbyTron: [https://www.hobbytron.com/search.php?Ntt=ramsey+kits HobbyTron]<br /> <br /> '''Raspberry Pi.''' A full UNIX-based computer the size of a bar of soap. The Pi uses a system-on-a-chip (SoC) from Broadcom and has full USB, memory card, HDMI video output and audio input/output support. In holiday lighting, used in conjunction with the [http://falconchristmas.com/forum/index.php/board,8.0.html FPP] software, which schedules and plays lighting sequences.<br /> <br /> '''RDM — remote device management.''' An expansion to the [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX-512]] protocol for configuring, updating and maintaining lighting equipment by allowing that equipment to send data back to the controlling computer.<br /> <br /> '''Resistor.''' A component in an electrical circuit that controls current by providing resistance. See [[Terminology/Definitions#O|ohms]].<br /> <br /> '''Renard.''' A method of controlling holiday lights using a microcontroller as an interface between a personal computer and the lights, conceived by hobbyist Phil Short in 2006. Renard is three things: controller hardware designs; the firmware running in the microcontroller, and the serial protocol for sending the commands from the personal computer to the lights. The initial hardware design was for eight channels and controlled two, four-channel SSRs using a Microchip PIC 16F688 processor. Renard controllers are designed by a variety of hobbyists and are available as printed circuit boards or as kits (which can be found [https://digwdf.com/store/ here], [http://www.renard-plus.com/ here], [http://radiant-holidays.com/radiant_holidays/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14&zenid=03c23714a63b9953fcdb7254cb26d169 here], [http://n7xg.net/sr32.html here] or [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35&zenid=b6e4ea4c3d0e343972b4c1b1a29f3fed here]). The name “Renard” is a play on the French slang for a male fox; in 2006 the leading DIY Christmas light sequencer was [[Terminology/Definitions#V|Vixen]], which while the name of one of Santa’s reindeers in the poem “A Visit from St. Nicholas,” is also a word describing a female fox.<br /> <br /> '''RG-6, RG-8, RG-11, RG-58, RG-59.''' These are all coaxial cables of varying thicknesses and impedance. The RG stands for “radio guide,” an old, obsolete military specification; the numbers are arbitrary. Most coax manufactured today is “RG-xx type,” because manufacturers don’t necessarily always meet the precise specifications. In the Christmas light world, you will encounter RG-58, a 50-ohm cable, because it is used in radio transmission and is discussed along with low-power FM transmitters that broadcast the music that accompanies the light shows.<br /> <br /> '''RGB — red, green, blue.''' A color model typically used in light applications (other color models include hue, saturation and lightness — HSL — and hue, saturation and value — HSV — as well as cyan, magenta, yellow, black — CMYK). In Christmas lighting, it is a term frequently used to designate a pixel, which has three LEDs, each of the named color. Note that the physical wiring order of different pixel types may be in RGB order, or RBG, or GBR, or GRB. Therefore the term RGB is a descriptive term, not necessarily a standard.<br /> <br /> '''RJ45.''' Registered Jack 45 is a telecommunications or computer connector that has four pairs of wires, for eight conductors. Wires can be attached in two different patterns, AT&T T568A or AT&T T568B.<br /> <br /> '''RoHS — restriction of hazardous substances.''' A directive by the European Union that is designed to keep harmful chemicals and materials to a minimum. It is used by electronics manufacturers to denote components that meet the EU requirements.<br /> <br /> '''RS232.''' A telecommunications protocol, Recommended Standard 232 was originally designed to connect teletypes with modems; it has survived to this day as the way computer serial ports send out data. RS232 is implemented in a variety of connectors, but is most commonly seen in the DB9 and DB25 devices. It uses nine wires and supports transmitted data, received data, request to send, carrier detect and ring indicator. It is used in Christmas lights by as the physical layer between PC serial ports and Christmas lights controllers.<br /> <br /> '''RS485.''' A telecommunications protocol, Recommended Standard 485 is typically used in building automation, the programming of logic controllers, sound system control, lighting control and video surveillance camera control. It is a two-wire system that uses a differential form of signaling that supports the transmission of data packets. It can be used over a long distance and supports multi-point connections. It is used in Christmas lights as a distribution system for light controllers signaling devices, sometimes using the DMX512 or the Renard protocols.<br /> <br /> '''RTFM''' A long-standing acronym in the tech community that stands for "READ THE F***ING MANUAL." Many DIY projects available in this community do have accompanying user guides, assembly manuals and other printed documentation. Don't be a moron -- when documentation is available, take the time to read it and follow it. It's there for a reason.<br /> <br /> == S ==<br /> '''Sequencer, sequencing.''' A computer program that allows hobbyists to align and apply lighting commands to music, or the process or using such a program. An early Christmas lighting sequencer was Comet, which was followed by Vixen (which has branched into two offerings, [http://www.vixenlights.com Vixen3] and [http://www.vixenplus.com VixenPlus]). Other freeware sequencers include [http://hinkles-lighting-sequencer.wikia.com/wiki/Hinkle%27s_Lighting_Sequencer_Wiki HLS] and [http://nutcracker123.com/nutcracker/tutorials/intro.pdf Nutcracker/xLights]. Commercial sequencing applications include Light Show Pro and Madrix.<br /> <br /> '''SMT, SMD — surface-mount technology, surface-mount device.''' A type of printed circuit board assembly that uses components that are soldered directly to the top of the board, rather than through holes drilled in the board. Most hobbyists view it as a more challenging technique than through-hole assembly. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DIP]].<br /> <br /> '''SNR — signal to noise ratio.''' A measure of signal strength relative to background noise. In Christmas lights, would be used in conjunction with an FM transmitter, that itself would be used to broadcast music with the light shows.<br /> <br /> '''SPT — service parallel thermoplastic.''' A type of electrical wire, commonly referred to as “zip cord” or “lamp cord.” Usually used in conjunction with the numbers 1, 2 or 3, which indicate 64ths-inches of insulation. SPT1 is usually 18 gauge wire, while SPT2 is available as 16 or 18 gauge and SPT3 can be as large as 10 gauge.<br /> <br /> '''Start channel.''' In [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX]] or [[Terminology/Definitions#W|wireless]] environments, the first [[Terminology/Definitions#C|channel]] a receiver has been programmed to accept. For example, a four-channel DMX receiver might be set to receive only channels 8-11, though all 512 channels pass through it, so its start channel would be 8.<br /> <br /> '''SSR — solid-state relay.''' In general electronics, an digital switch, rather than a switch with mechanical parts. In Christmas lighting, a light controller that includes a solid-state relay.<br /> <br /> '''Surface mount technology; surface mount device (SMT, SMD).''' A method of mounting integrated circuits, microcontrollers and other electronics on printed circuit boards. The method mounts the devices on the top of a PC board rather than using holes through the board. Compare this with [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DIP]].<br /> <br /> '''SWR — standing wave ratio.''' Usually used in the phrase “SWR meter,” which is a device coupled between a radio transmitter and an antenna and is used to tune the antenna accurately to the frequency over which the radio waves are being transmitted.<br /> <br /> == T ==<br /> '''Transformer.''' An electro-magnetic device designed to raise or lower electrical voltage.<br /> <br /> '''Transistor.''' A basic solid-state semiconductor that has three terminals and can be used for amplification, switching and/or detection.<br /> <br /> '''TRIAC — triode for alternating current.''' An electronic component used to turn on and off AC power to an electrical device such as a Christmas light. Specifically designed to handle dimming circuits.<br /> <br /> '''Twisted pair.''' Two insulated wires bent and curled together. Usually used in electronic signaling such as RS232 and RS485.<br /> <br /> == U ==<br /> '''ULN2803.''' An array of eight Darlington transistors (which themselves are arrays of two transistors) that amplify current. Often used in Christmas lights as devices to increase the current coming from a microcontroller to an SSR so that there is enough power to turn on (or off) the SSR.<br /> <br /> '''Universe.''' In DMX, 512 channels of lighting.<br /> <br /> '''Unproductive loop.''' A mistake in computer programming where instructions circle back and forth, never ending. See [[Terminology/Definitions#E|endless loop]].<br /> <br /> '''USB — universal serial bus.''' A type of connection typically found on a personal computer linking peripheral devices to the computer. It is a four-wire serial interface that includes 5-volt, DC.<br /> <br /> == V ==<br /> '''Vastelec.''' Maker of FM radio transmitters, with divisions based in Hong Kong and Zhuhai, China.<br /> <br /> '''Vixen.''' One of Santa Claus’ “eight tiny reindeer” as defined in the 1823 poem, “[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Visit_from_St._Nicholas A Visit from St. Nicholas]” (also known as “The Night Before Christmas” or “’Twas the Night Before Christmas”). Also, the name of a light-sequencing application initially developed in 2006 by hobbyist K.C. Oaks, who on his own wrote versions 1, 2, 2.1 and 2.5. In 2013 he wrote the underlying code for [http://www.vixenlights.com/ Vixen 3] and then turned development over to a group of volunteers. Also in 2013, a parallel project was started by John McAdams, which he calls [http://www.vixenplus.com VixenPlus].<br /> <br /> '''Voltage drop.''' The loss of electrical voltage in a circuit which is determined by two main factors: the size of the wire (or wire gauge) and the length of the wire run. While it can be experienced in any circuit, it typically is more of a problem in lower voltage circuits (5 volts-24 volts). Voltage drop on a long run of wire can be helped by increasing the wire gauge, using a smaller AWG number wire.<br /> <br /> '''Voltage regulator.''' An electronic device designed to take a higher voltage and make it conform to a specific lower voltage. Provide a 5-volt regulator with 12 volts as an input and it will put out a steady 5 volts; provide a 12-volt regulator with 13 volts and it will output a steady 12 volts. While some regulators are designed for specific voltages, others can provide a range of voltages depending upon resistance applied; variable voltage regulators can be controlled by potentiometers (i.e.: volume control), so that you can turn a knob and get various voltages depending on where the knob is.<br /> <br /> '''Volts.''' A measure of “electrical pressure” between two points in a circuit. The higher the voltage, the more current will be pushed through the circuit. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#E|Electricity basics]].<br /> <br /> == W ==<br /> '''Wall power.''' The alternating current electricity provided by the utility company. In North America, typically 120 volts, AC. In the United Kingdom and Australia (where it’s known as “mains”), typically 240 volts, AC.<br /> <br /> '''Watts.''' A measure of the amount of electrical power drawn by a load, such as a light bulb. A watt is determined by multiplying volts by amps. A kilowatt is 1000 watts and electrical utilities measure electricity consumption by kilowatt hours. For example, if you have two 500-watt heaters, and you leave them both on for one hour, you have used one kilowatt hour of electricity. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#E|Electricity basics]].<br /> <br /> '''Williams, Carson.''' An early Christmas light show hobbyist, Williams videotaped his sequence of the song [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wizards_in_Winter “Wizards in Winter”], by the group [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trans-Siberian_Orchestra Trans-Siberian Orchestra] in 2004 and posted it on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmgf60CI_ks YouTube]. The video gained millions of viewings in 2005 and helped launch the popularity of computerized Christmas lights shows sequenced to music.<br /> <br /> '''Wire gauge.''' A way of measuring the diameter of a wire. It is determined by the number of times a piece of metal is passed through successively smaller dies. So, the smaller the number (2, 4, 6, 8) the larger the diameter of the wire, while the larger the number (18, 22, 24), the smaller the diameter of the wire. Frequently expressed as AWG, meaning American Wire Gauge.<br /> <br /> '''Wireless.''' Radio transmission of signals. In holiday lighting, a method of transmitting sequences over a low-power radio such as an [[Terminology/Definitions#X|xBee]] or [[Terminology/Definitions#N|nRF24l01]].<br /> <br /> == X ==<br /> '''XBee.''' A type of digital radio transceiver that supports transmission rates up to 250 kilobits per second, manufactured by Digi International Inc. Available in a variety of output powers (up to 100 mW), topologies (point-to-point, star, mesh) and frequencies (868, 915 or 2450 MHz) using the ZigBee transmission protocol.<br /> <br /> == Y ==<br /> <br /> '''YMMV.''' - An acronymn for "your mileage may vary," a term often used by DIY'ers when suggesting that a measurement or experience of some kind may not be consistent with what one person is describing.<br /> <br /> == Z ==<br /> '''Zero cross.''' A technique for dimming AC lights which determines the point at which an AC line oscillates at zero volts. Employing the technique is necessary to allow AC lights to dim accurately. Other terms are zero cross detection, zero cross signal, ZC signal...<br /> <br /> '''ZigBee.''' See [[Terminology/Definitions#X|XBee]].</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Where_to_get_more_info&diff=3265 Where to get more info 2026-04-16T17:17:44Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>This is what the forums at diychristmas.org and other Christmas-lighting sites are all about. You'll want to join one or more of them so that you can interact with other DIYers, post questions, read solutions and hopefully, help others along the way as your own skills increase.<br /> <br /> As you visit other sites, look for links or topics that are related to "Getting Started", "For Beginners" or "How do I get started?" And resist the urge to go out and just buy something "because it looks good." Learn about the hobby first, do some planning, and leave the spending of money for later. You'll be much happier (and so will your credit card balance!)<br /> <br /> * [http://diychristmas.org '''diychristmas.org'''] hosts this Wiki, registration is free, and there are no fees attached to using the forum in any way. The site does accept voluntary contributions to help defray operating expenses. Contact jon@chuchla.com for more support info!<br /> <br /> * [http://doityourselfchristmas.com '''DoItYourselfChristmas.com'''] is another very popular and broad source of information for the animated lighting hobby.<br /> <br /> * [http://www.auschristmaslighting.com '''AusChristmasLighting'''] is another terrific forum for some really creative users from "down under" and a great place to learn how others around the world practice this craft.<br /> <br /> * [http://www.planetchristmas.com '''Planet Christmas'''] is a wonderful forum that also publishes a substantial magazine. It has many, many thousands of visitors every day.</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Making/Wiring_Mono-Pixels&diff=3264 Making/Wiring Mono-Pixels 2024-05-28T16:49:19Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Candy_cane.png | 200px |right]]<br /> This is a tutorial on how to make a pixel string manually with regular, single-color LEDs instead of 3-color RGB LEDs. It's a rather labor-intensive project but once finished, the result is quite rewarding and along the way, you'll acquire worthwhile knowledge on how pixels work. You'll also acquire much-improved soldering skills!<br /> <br /> For this project, the author wanted to replace the incandescent mini-lights in some commercial candy canes with white leds, but also gain the ability to animate each cane individually. The diameter of each cane tube was too small for a normal RGB pixel to fit, and as the tubes were clear, red plastic, showing a green or blue from within wouldn't have worked very well anyway. So instead, the author chose to make his own. Click this link to view the working prototype: '''http://vimeo.com/214309360'''<br /> <br /> == Materials ==<br /> ::* Commercial plastic candy canes, about 27" tall. Purchase from Home Depot, Lowe's, Target, etc.<br /> ::* Common, clear lens white LEDs (12 per candy cane)<br /> ::* WS2811 driver boards (purchased off eBay) (4 per candy cane)<br /> ::* LED carrier boards (DIGWDF Store sells these, but you can also use common prototyping boards, 8 per candy cane)<br /> ::* 5-conductor ribbon cable (about 28" used per candy cane)<br /> ::* 4-pin male and female plugs (any kind will do)<br /> ::* ESPixelStick controller (to power and control them, but most any pixel controller will suffice)<br /> <br /> == Understanding ==<br /> <br /> To get started, let's understand how the pixel driver board works and how to wire it. At 5/16" wide and 1/2" tall, the driver board is quite tiny and consequently can be a bit testy to work with. This is the same driver board that's in most RGB bullet pixels and uses a single WS2811 chip. The top and bottom sides of the board are shown below along with the assignment of connections. This tutorial will use the 5vdc version of the driver board; pixels that use 12vdc use a variant of the same board but the differences are only to accommodate the larger voltage -- the same concepts presented here apply to the 12vdc version. The WS2811 chip has internal circuitry to serve as a constant-current driver that delivers 18.5ma of current to the three outputs; each chip requires three different channels to control its three outputs.<br /> <br /> [[File:1-understanding.png | 400px | center]]<br /> ::* The four holes along the top of the board are for the four pins of a common-anode RGB led; the RGB LED is soldered directly into these holes.<br /> ::* Because the board uses RGB leds of the a common-anode type, switching is done by taking the output control pins to ground, thereby completing the circuit and allowing each respective color to light up. <br /> ::* Except for the data in and data out pads, the top and bottom sides of the driver board share the same connections.<br /> ::* The bottom side is clearly marked with an arrow to show the direction of data flow into the chip on the center pad. <br /> ::* Data is passed through the chip and on to the next chip via the data out pad on the top side of the board.<br /> ::* On a normal RGB pixel, three wires connect to the bottom side as "incoming power and data" and another three wires are connected to the top side of the board as "outgoing power and data" so that the wires can continue to the next pixel. These wires are often colored to help identify the wires but they may all be one color. In such cases, you must study the pixel carefully to try to read which wire is for which connection because the power and ground must be correct and the data must flow according to the arrow on the first pixel of a string; any other order won't work and may damage one or more pixels in the string.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:2-understanding.png| 300px | center]]<br /> ::* To create a mono-pixel string that has only one color (white in this example) yet use all 3 channels of each WS2811 chip, one solders a white LED in place of the red, and then carries the green and blue outputs to two more blank "carrier boards" where the 2nd and 3rd leds will be mounted. Further, the power, ground and data lines must also be brought forward so that the LED in the carrier boards can light as well as feed the ''next'' WS2811 chip in the string.<br /> ::* A five-conductor cable is required; suggested types are colored ribbon cable or cat5 cable to help keep the connections consistent.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:3-understanding.png| 500px | center]]<br /> ::* At the first led carrier board, all five incoming connections come in on one side and go out the other to the second led carrier. However, only the GND, Data and +V lines are used by the next WS2811 driver to connect to the 2nd carrier board.<br /> ::* For consistency, black was used as ground and red the +V line. (While the colors you use really don't matter, it's a good idea to adhere to as many normal colors for DC current as you can or at least be consistent with your choices.) Because the cabling was manufactured with green between the black and red, I chose green to carry the data line out of convenience.<br /> ::* In this example, the blue wire was connected to the "G" channel output of the WS2811 driver board; the white wire was connected to the "B" channel output. (Again, the cable manufacturer provided the cable colors -- I just kept them consistent throughout the project.)<br /> ::* At carrier board #1, the LED is soldered across the +V and "green" channel (blue wire, shown with purple lines in the picture).<br /> ::* All 5 lines should continue on to the 2nd carrier board although only 4 are required. It's just easier to stay consistent.<br /> ::* At carrier board #2, the LED is soldered across the +V and "blue" channel (white wire, shown with orange lines in the picture).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:9-prep.jpg| 800px |center]]<br /> ::* This becomes one completed, 3-led, 3-channel section of the mono-pixel string.<br /> ::* Notice that only three wires are connected to the WS2811 driver board (far right in the picture); these are the feed wires bringing power and data into the first chip of the mono-pixel string.<br /> ::* Notice that from the WS2811 driver board to the led carriers, the 5-line wire is used per the instructions above.<br /> ::* Building the string to the desired length is then as simple as connecting these 3-channel sections together. The order of the boards is DRIVER-carrier-carrier-DRIVER-carrier-carrier-DRIVER-carrier-carrier- etc. Connecting a driver board onto the 2nd carrier board of a section is easy: solder ground, data and +V to keep those three lines going to all boards in the string.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:4-understanding.png| 500px |center]]<br /> ::* In this example, the strings comprised four WS2811 driver boards and eight led carriers for a total of 12 boards, 12 lights. The total length of the string was 34" and was intended to be inserted into a candy cane. But it was desirable to daisy chain several candy canes together so that they could be sequenced and animated. Therefore, it was necessary to carry the data line through to the next candy cane so that connections could be made at the base of the candy cane.<br /> ::* The very LAST carrier board of the string included a single wire for the data line that was brought down the candy cane to the base so that a connector could be fashioned to connect to the next candy cane. A thin cat5 wire was used to make the connection.<br /> ::* The result was a candy cane that required only 12 channels to control (one channel for each led). It's certainly possible to use normal RGB pixels instead, but to produce white, it requires that all 3 channels of each pixel be on, and that's also three times the number of channels required for each candy cane. The mono-pixel string is more efficient in its use of channels.<br /> <br /> == Construction Tips ==<br /> <br /> :* Preparing for assembly is an important part of this project. A small dollop of solder on each of the solder pads helps a lot. Make sure you do both sides of the driver board. Soldering a tinned wire to a dollop of solder is quicker and lessens the potential of heat damage to the WS2811 chip.<br /> ::::[[File:1-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:2-prep.jpg |290px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* If you're planning to use ribbon cable, this kind of cable stripping tool is a real lifesaver and strips all the wires simultaneously. Cost is anywhere from $10-$25 on Amazon or eBay.<br /> ::::[[FIle:3-prep.jpg | 400px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* You'll want to tin the wires so they fit neatly through holes. Twisting the ends rarely works very well, especially with multi-conductor cable. Notice the blip of solder on the black cable: a simple swipe of the soldering iron from the insulation to the tip will smooth that out so it fits through a hole. Tinned wires also take to the dollops of solder faster which lessens heat to the WS2811 chip (which can damage the chip).<br /> ::::[[FIle:4-prep.jpg | 400px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* When soldering the cables to the led carriers, keep the same wire order throughout so you don't get confused. This carrier is ready for installing the LED. (Grelllbbb, DIGWDF's head engineer made these LED carriers capable of 6 lines on both the top and bottom of the 2-sided PCB. We've found them convenient for interconnecting many different types of cables in addition to their original use as a carrier for RGB or other LEDs. Actually, Grelllbbb is more of a head-case than a head engineer, but that's a story for another time... )<br /> ::::[[File:5-prep.jpg |310px]] [[File:6-prep.jpg |260px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* Here are a couple views of the WS2811 driver. Note that the inbound cable is soldered to the bottom and the outbound to the top keeping the colors the same to minimize confusion. A typical bullet pixel is soldered so both wires come out the bottom; since I wanted a linear string, I soldered the outbound wires upward so I wouldn't have to bend them upward, thus making for a smaller package. This is why normal pixels wouldn't fit inside these narrow candy canes.<br /> ::::[[File:7a-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:7b-prep.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* This WS2811 driver board is waiting for the LED to be soldered. It's a personal preference if you solder the led on either the top or bottom of the board. Instead of installing it flush onto the board, it's a good idea to leave enough of the led's solder legs so you can bend it to face in a different direction if you need to later.<br /> ::::[[File:8-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:Lights.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* When you connect the second led carrier to the next WS2811 driver board, only 3 wires are required. This carrier is waiting for its led, too.<br /> ::::[[File:10-prep.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* Here's a wiring layout of how the mono-pixel string is built.<br /> ::::[[File:Monopixel_wiring.png |800px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* In panels of WS2811 driver boards, the cost gets down to about $.15 per board -- and a benefit is they're already assembled. It's cheaper and easier to buy these than to design and fabricate your own. Purchase from eBay, or you might find them at aliexpress.com or even Amazon.<br /> ::::[[File:Pixelpcbs.JPG |500px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* If the LEDs you choose are too directional and you need more diffusion, rub the LED casings with some sandpaper to rough them up. This will disperse the light a little better. Clear on the left; sanded on the right.<br /> ::::[[File:Clear-sanded.jpg |500px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* To make inbound and outbound pluggable connections for the candy canes, I used an LED carrier as the "interface" and placed it inside and at the base of each candy cane. Note that the +V and GND cables are common and actually form a sort of power injection at each cane for better efficiency; the outgoing green data wire connects to the small cat5 cable that comes from the top LED in the cane to daisy chain to the next cane. (The blue wire is unused; it's just a pass-thru connection.) This is an example of another use for the LED carriers that was mentioned above.<br /> ::::[[File:Cable-2.jpg |420px]] [[File:Cable-1.jpg |390px]]<br /> <br /> == Candy Cane Base Mount ==<br /> A handy base mount can be fashioned out of PVC, a couple zip ties and some stiff wire. If you look closely, you'll see that the connection wires exit the sides through slots cut on either side of a short tube of PVC. The stiff wires were bent to fit into small holes that were drilled into the side along with small grooves to keep the wires in place. Then they were simply zip-tied to the tube. This base was preferred over the traditionally weak plastic spike that was originally provided with the plastic canes and allows the bases to be inserted into the ground separately, followed later by inserting the canes into the bases.<br /> <br /> [[File:IMG_0616.JPG | 400px]] [[File:IMG_0680.JPG | 350px]]<br /> <br /> == MonoPixel PCB ==<br /> <br /> ::DIGWDF created a flexible PCB which eliminates the hassle of manually wiring monopixels as shown above. The PCBs are 1/2" wide x 11" long and three or more can be daisy chained together and slid into a plastic cane in place of the manual wiring method. If the store link doesn't work (the store closed in 2018), the Gerbers are available from Dirknerkle via the forum. DIGWDF Store link: ''' http://digwdf.org/store/product.php?id_product=254 '''<br /> <br /> [[File:Monopixels.JPG | center | 800px]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Making/Wiring_Mono-Pixels&diff=3263 Making/Wiring Mono-Pixels 2024-05-28T16:42:56Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Candy_cane.png | 200px |right]]<br /> This is a tutorial on how to make a pixel string manually with regular, single-color LEDs instead of 3-color RGB LEDs. It's a rather labor-intensive project but once finished, the result is quite rewarding and along the way, you'll acquire worthwhile knowledge on how pixels work. You'll also acquire much-improved soldering skills!<br /> <br /> For this project, the author wanted to replace the incandescent mini-lights in some commercial candy canes with white leds, but also gain the ability to animate each cane individually. The diameter of each cane tube was too small for a normal RGB pixel to fit, and as the tubes were clear, red plastic, showing a green or blue from within wouldn't have worked very well anyway. So instead, the author chose to make his own. Click this link to view the working prototype: '''http://vimeo.com/214309360'''<br /> <br /> == Materials ==<br /> ::* Commercial plastic candy canes, about 27" tall. Purchase from Home Depot, Lowe's, Target, etc.<br /> ::* Common, clear lens white LEDs (12 per candy cane)<br /> ::* WS2811 driver boards (purchased off eBay) (4 per candy cane)<br /> ::* LED carrier boards (DIGWDF Store sells these, but you can also use common prototyping boards, 8 per candy cane)<br /> ::* 5-conductor ribbon cable (about 28" used per candy cane)<br /> ::* 4-pin male and female plugs (any kind will do)<br /> ::* ESPixelStick controller (to power and control them, but most any pixel controller will suffice)<br /> <br /> == Understanding ==<br /> <br /> To get started, let's understand how the pixel driver board works and how to wire it. At 5/16" wide and 1/2" tall, the driver board is quite tiny and consequently can be a bit testy to work with. This is the same driver board that's in most RGB bullet pixels and uses a single WS2811 chip. The top and bottom sides of the board are shown below along with the assignment of connections. This tutorial will use the 5vdc version of the driver board; pixels that use 12vdc use a variant of the same board but the differences are only to accommodate the larger voltage -- the same concepts presented here apply to the 12vdc version. The WS2811 chip has internal circuitry to serve as a constant-current driver that delivers 18.5ma of current to the three outputs; each chip requires three different channels to control its three outputs.<br /> <br /> [[File:1-understanding.png | 400px | center]]<br /> ::* The four holes along the top of the board are for the four pins of a common-anode RGB led; the RGB LED is soldered directly into these holes.<br /> ::* Because the board uses RGB leds of the a common-anode type, switching is done by taking the output control pins to ground, thereby completing the circuit and allowing each respective color to light up. <br /> ::* Except for the data in and data out pads, the top and bottom sides of the driver board share the same connections.<br /> ::* The bottom side is clearly marked with an arrow to show the direction of data flow into the chip on the center pad. <br /> ::* Data is passed through the chip and on to the next chip via the data out pad on the top side of the board.<br /> ::* On a normal RGB pixel, three wires connect to the bottom side as "incoming power and data" and another three wires are connected to the top side of the board as "outgoing power and data" so that the wires can continue to the next pixel. These wires are often colored to help identify the wires but they may all be one color. In such cases, you must study the pixel carefully to try to read which wire is for which connection because the power and ground must be correct and the data must flow according to the arrow on the first pixel of a string; any other order won't work and may damage one or more pixels in the string.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:2-understanding.png| 300px | center]]<br /> ::* To create a mono-pixel string that has only one color (white in this example) yet use all 3 channels of each WS2811 chip, one solders a white LED in place of the red, and then carries the green and blue outputs to two more blank "carrier boards" where the 2nd and 3rd leds will be mounted. Further, the power, ground and data lines must also be brought forward so that the LED in the carrier boards can light as well as feed the ''next'' WS2811 chip in the string.<br /> ::* A five-conductor cable is required; suggested types are colored ribbon cable or cat5 cable to help keep the connections consistent.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:3-understanding.png| 500px | center]]<br /> ::* At the first led carrier board, all five incoming connections come in on one side and go out the other to the second led carrier. However, only the GND, Data and +V lines are used by the next WS2811 driver to connect to the 2nd carrier board.<br /> ::* For consistency, black was used as ground and red the +V line. (While the colors you use really don't matter, it's a good idea to adhere to as many normal colors for DC current as you can or at least be consistent with your choices.) Because the cabling was manufactured with green between the black and red, I chose green to carry the data line out of convenience.<br /> ::* In this example, the blue wire was connected to the "G" channel output of the WS2811 driver board; the white wire was connected to the "B" channel output. (Again, the cable manufacturer provided the cable colors -- I just kept them consistent throughout the project.)<br /> ::* At carrier board #1, the LED is soldered across the +V and "green" channel (blue wire, shown with purple lines in the picture).<br /> ::* All 5 lines should continue on to the 2nd carrier board although only 4 are required. It's just easier to stay consistent.<br /> ::* At carrier board #2, the LED is soldered across the +V and "blue" channel (white wire, shown with orange lines in the picture).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:9-prep.jpg| 800px |center]]<br /> ::* This becomes one completed, 3-led, 3-channel section of the mono-pixel string.<br /> ::* Notice that only three wires are connected to the WS2811 driver board (far right in the picture); these are the feed wires bringing power and data into the first chip of the mono-pixel string.<br /> ::* Notice that from the WS2811 driver board to the led carriers, the 5-line wire is used per the instructions above.<br /> ::* Building the string to the desired length is then as simple as connecting these 3-channel sections together. The order of the boards is DRIVER-carrier-carrier-DRIVER-carrier-carrier-DRIVER-carrier-carrier- etc. Connecting a driver board onto the 2nd carrier board of a section is easy: solder ground, data and +V to keep those three lines going to all boards in the string.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:4-understanding.png| 500px |center]]<br /> ::* In this example, the strings comprised four WS2811 driver boards and eight led carriers for a total of 12 boards, 12 lights. The total length of the string was 34" and was intended to be inserted into a candy cane. But it was desirable to daisy chain several candy canes together so that they could be sequenced and animated. Therefore, it was necessary to carry the data line through to the next candy cane so that connections could be made at the base of the candy cane.<br /> ::* The very LAST carrier board of the string included a single wire for the data line that was brought down the candy cane to the base so that a connector could be fashioned to connect to the next candy cane. A thin cat5 wire was used to make the connection.<br /> ::* The result was a candy cane that required only 12 channels to control (one channel for each led). It's certainly possible to use normal RGB pixels instead, but to produce white, it requires that all 3 channels of each pixel be on, and that's also three times the number of channels required for each candy cane. The mono-pixel string is more efficient in its use of channels.<br /> <br /> == Construction Tips ==<br /> <br /> :* Preparing for assembly is an important part of this project. A small dollop of solder on each of the solder pads helps a lot. Make sure you do both sides of the driver board. Soldering a tinned wire to a dollop of solder is quicker and lessens the potential of heat damage to the WS2811 chip.<br /> ::::[[File:1-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:2-prep.jpg |290px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* If you're planning to use ribbon cable, this kind of cable stripping tool is a real lifesaver and strips all the wires simultaneously. Cost is anywhere from $10-$25 on Amazon or eBay.<br /> ::::[[FIle:3-prep.jpg | 400px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* You'll want to tin the wires so they fit neatly through holes. Twisting the ends rarely works very well, especially with multi-conductor cable. Notice the blip of solder on the black cable: a simple swipe of the soldering iron from the insulation to the tip will smooth that out so it fits through a hole. Tinned wires also take to the dollops of solder faster which lessens heat to the WS2811 chip (which can damage the chip).<br /> ::::[[FIle:4-prep.jpg | 400px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* When soldering the cables to the led carriers, keep the same wire order throughout so you don't get confused. This carrier is ready for installing the LED. (Grelllbbb, DIGWDF's head engineer made these LED carriers capable of 6 lines on both the top and bottom of the 2-sided PCB. We've found them convenient for interconnecting many different types of cables in addition to their original use as a carrier for RGB or other LEDs. Actually, Grelllbbb is more of a head-case than a head engineer, but that's a story for another time... )<br /> ::::[[File:5-prep.jpg |310px]] [[File:6-prep.jpg |260px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* Here are a couple views of the WS2811 driver. Note that the inbound cable is soldered to the bottom and the outbound to the top keeping the colors the same to minimize confusion. A typical bullet pixel is soldered so both wires come out the bottom; since I wanted a linear string, I soldered the outbound wires upward so I wouldn't have to bend them upward, thus making for a smaller package. This is why normal pixels wouldn't fit inside these narrow candy canes.<br /> ::::[[File:7a-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:7b-prep.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* This WS2811 driver board is waiting for the LED to be soldered. It's a personal preference if you solder the led on either the top or bottom of the board. Instead of installing it flush onto the board, it's a good idea to leave enough of the led's solder legs so you can bend it to face in a different direction if you need to later.<br /> ::::[[File:8-prep.jpg |300px]] [[File:Lights.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* When you connect the second led carrier to the next WS2811 driver board, only 3 wires are required. This carrier is waiting for its led, too.<br /> ::::[[File:10-prep.jpg |300px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* Here's a wiring layout of how the mono-pixel string is built.<br /> ::::[[File:Monopixel_wiring.png |800px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* In panels of WS2811 driver boards, the cost gets down to about $.15 per board -- and a benefit is they're already assembled. It's cheaper and easier to buy these than to design and fabricate your own. Purchase from eBay, or you might find them at aliexpress.com or even Amazon.<br /> ::::[[File:Pixelpcbs.JPG |500px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* If the LEDs you choose are too directional and you need more diffusion, rub the LED casings with some sandpaper to rough them up. This will disperse the light a little better. Clear on the left; sanded on the right.<br /> ::::[[File:Clear-sanded.jpg |500px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> :* To make inbound and outbound pluggable connections for the candy canes, I used an LED carrier as the "interface" and placed it inside and at the base of each candy cane. Note that the +V and GND cables are common and actually form a sort of power injection at each cane for better efficiency; the outgoing green data wire connects to the small cat5 cable that comes from the top LED in the cane to daisy chain to the next cane. (The blue wire is unused; it's just a pass-thru connection.) This is an example of another use for the LED carriers that was mentioned above.<br /> ::::[[File:Cable-2.jpg |420px]] [[File:Cable-1.jpg |390px]]<br /> <br /> == Candy Cane Base Mount ==<br /> A handy base mount can be fashioned out of PVC, a couple zip ties and some stiff wire. If you look closely, you'll see that the connection wires exit the sides through slots cut on either side of a short tube of PVC. The stiff wires were bent to fit into small holes that were drilled into the side along with small grooves to keep the wires in place. Then they were simply zip-tied to the tube. This base was preferred over the traditionally weak plastic spike that was originally provided with the plastic canes and allows the bases to be inserted into the ground separately, followed later by inserting the canes into the bases.<br /> <br /> [[File:IMG_0616.JPG | 400px]] [[File:IMG_0680.JPG | 350px]]<br /> <br /> == MonoPixel PCB ==<br /> <br /> ::DIGWDF created a flexible PCB which eliminates the hassle of manually wiring monopixels as shown above. The PCBs are 1/2" wide x 11" long and three or more can be daisy chained together and slid into a plastic cane in place of the manual wiring method. DIGWDF Store link: ''' http://digwdf.org/store/product.php?id_product=254 '''<br /> <br /> [[File:Monopixels.JPG | center | 800px]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3262 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T16:03:34Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> <br /> ::For example, suppose you need an extra second of no sound before a song starts. With Audacity, simply import the audio file, put the cursor at the beginning of the display and "generate silence" for one second. The top pair of L/R channels shows the original; the bottom pair shows how the silence has been added, shifting the start of the song by one second:<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-add_time.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::Another example, suppose you've recorded a song from a vinyl record and you have noise at the start of the recording when the needle was placed on the record. First, highlight the section you want to edit and hit the delete key to remove it; or instead of deleting it, perhaps you'd just want to generate silence into that same area instead. Audacity gives you plenty of options and effects you can apply to a whole audio file or just a portion of it.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-select_delete.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::These brief examples are just to whet your appetite as entire books have been written on audio editing. Audacity is just one tool you can use -- there are many, many more that are available at little or no cost. You can effect fade-ins and fade-outs for smoother transitions between your audio selections, amplify them both up or down, and if you practice a bit, you can make a selection shorter by deleting a verse or even extending it by copying/pasting a bridge section between a couple verses -- and your listeners likely won't even notice!</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3261 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T16:01:44Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> <br /> ::For example, suppose you need an extra second of no sound before a song starts. With Audacity, simply import the audio file, put the cursor at the beginning of the display and "generate silence" for one second. The top pair of L/R channels shows the original; the bottom pair shows how the silence has been added, shifting the start of the song by one second:<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-add_time.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::Another example, suppose you've recorded a song from a vinyl record and you have noise at the start of the recording when the needle was placed on the record. First, highlight the section you want to edit and hit the delete key to remove it; or instead of deleting it, perhaps you'd just want to generate silence into that same area instead. Audacity gives you plenty of options and effects you can apply to a whole audio file or just a portion of it.<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-select_delete.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::These brief examples are just to whet your appetite as entire books have been written on audio editing. Audacity is just one tool you can use -- there are many, many more that are available at little or no cost. You can effect fade-ins and fade-outs for smoother transitions between your audio selections, amplify them both up or down, and if you practice a bit, you can make a selection shorter by deleting a verse or even extending it by copying/pasting a bridge section between a couple verses -- and your listeners likely won't even notice!</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3260 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T16:00:10Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> <br /> ::For example, suppose you need an extra second of no sound before a song starts. With Audacity, simply import the audio file, put the cursor at the beginning of the display and "generate silence" for one second. The top pair of L/R channels shows the original; the bottom pair shows how the silence has been added, shifting the start of the song by one second:<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-add_time.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::Another example, suppose you've recorded a song from a vinyl record and you have noise at the start of the recording when the needle was placed on the record. First, highlight the section you want to edit and hit the delete key to remove it; or instead of deleting it, perhaps you'd just want to generate silence into that same area instead. Audacity gives you plenty of options and effects you can apply to a whole audio file or just a portion of it.<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-select_delete.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::These brief examples are just to whet your appetite and whole books have been written on audio editing. Audacity is just one tool you can use -- there are many, many more that are available at little or no cost. You can effect fade-ins and fade-outs for smoother transitions between your audio selections, amplify them both up or down, and if you practice a bit, you can make a selection shorter by deleting a verse or even extending it by copying/pasting a bridge section between a couple verses -- and your listeners likely won't even notice!</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3259 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T15:58:57Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> <br /> ::For example, suppose you need an extra second of no sound before a song starts. With Audacity, simply import the audio file, put the cursor at the beginning of the display and "generate silence" for one second. The top pair of L/R channels shows the original; the bottom pair shows how the silence has been added, shifting the start of the song by one second:<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-add_time.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::Another example, suppose you've recorded a song from a vinyl record and you have noise at the start of the recording when the needle was placed on the record. First, highlight the section you want to edit and hit the delete key to remove it; or instead of deleting it, perhaps you'd just want to generate silence into that same area instead. Audacity give you plenty of options and effects you can apply to a whole audio file or just a portion of it.<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-select_delete.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::These brief examples are just to whet your appetite and whole books have been written on audio editing. Audacity is just one tool you can use -- there are many, many more that are available at little or no cost. You can effect fade-ins and fade-outs for smoother transitions between your audio selections, amplify them both up or down, and if you practice a bit, you can make a selection shorter by deleting a verse or even extending it by copying/pasting a bridge section between a couple verses -- and your listeners likely won't even notice!</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3258 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T15:58:40Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> ::For example, suppose you need an extra second of no sound before a song starts. With Audacity, simply import the audio file, put the cursor at the beginning of the display and "generate silence" for one second. The top pair of L/R channels shows the original; the bottom pair shows how the silence has been added, shifting the start of the song by one second:<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-add_time.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::Another example, suppose you've recorded a song from a vinyl record and you have noise at the start of the recording when the needle was placed on the record. First, highlight the section you want to edit and hit the delete key to remove it; or instead of deleting it, perhaps you'd just want to generate silence into that same area instead. Audacity give you plenty of options and effects you can apply to a whole audio file or just a portion of it.<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-select_delete.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::These brief examples are just to whet your appetite and whole books have been written on audio editing. Audacity is just one tool you can use -- there are many, many more that are available at little or no cost. You can effect fade-ins and fade-outs for smoother transitions between your audio selections, amplify them both up or down, and if you practice a bit, you can make a selection shorter by deleting a verse or even extending it by copying/pasting a bridge section between a couple verses -- and your listeners likely won't even notice!</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3257 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T15:47:01Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> ::For example, suppose you need an extra second of no sound before a song starts. With Audacity, simply import the audio file, put the cursor at the beginning of the display and "generate silence" for one second. The top pair of L/R channels shows the original; the bottom pair shows how the silence has been added, shifting the start of the song by one second:<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-add_time.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ::Another example, suppose you've recorded a song from a vinyl record and you have noise at the start of the recording when the needle was placed on the record. First, highlight the section you want to edit and hit the delete key to remove it; or instead of deleting it, perhaps you'd just want to generate silence into that same area instead. Audacity give you plenty of options...<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-select_delete.png | 600px | center]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3256 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T15:41:14Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> ::For example, suppose you need an extra second of no sound before a song starts. With Audacity, simply import the audio file, put the cursor at the beginning of the display and "generate silence" for one second. The top pair of L/R channels shows the original; the bottom pair shows how the silence has been added, shifting the start of the song by one second:<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-add_time.png | 600px | center]]<br /> <br /> ::Another example might be completely replacing the beginning of the song with silence, such as you might encounter if taking a song off a record where the first second is noise from setting the needle in the groove, or instead selecting the section of the song and simply deleting it. First, select the section you want to edit and then...<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-select_delete.png | 600px | center]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3255 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T15:29:30Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> - in progress -<br /> [[File:Edit-add_time.png]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Edit-select_delete.png]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Edit-select_delete.png&diff=3254 File:Edit-select delete.png 2024-05-28T15:25:18Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Edit-add_time.png&diff=3253 File:Edit-add time.png 2024-05-28T15:24:43Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3252 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T14:33:01Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download: '''https://audacityteam.org'''<br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editing_Audio_Files&diff=3251 Editing Audio Files 2024-05-28T14:32:24Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Sometimes it's necessary to edit the audio files to remove noise, clicks and pops, or even amplify it if it's very soft or reduce its volume if it's too loud to begin with. One of the most popular software editing tools is Audacity, a free download! https://audacityteam.org<br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=FM_Radio_Transmitters&diff=3250 FM Radio Transmitters 2024-05-28T14:29:15Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::A great way to put your audio track close to your viewers' ears is to broadcast your audio directly to their cars. An inexpensive, low-power FM transmitter is the perfect tool for this. Thanks to Jason Rasmussen for including this graphic in his 2020 Christmas Summit presentation!<br /> <br /> [[File:Recommended_products.png]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=FM_Radio_Transmitters&diff=3249 FM Radio Transmitters 2024-05-28T14:28:36Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::A great way to put your audio track close to your viewers' ears is to broadcast your audio directly to their cars. An inexpensive, low-power FM transmitter is the perfect tool for this. Thanks to Jason Rasmussen for including this graphic in his 2020 presentation!<br /> <br /> [[File:Recommended_products.png]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=FM_Transmitting_Antennas&diff=3248 FM Transmitting Antennas 2024-05-28T14:24:22Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:If you're using a low-power FM transmitter, you're going to need a good antenna so that your station's signal is clean and clear. It doesn't take much power to transmit a nice signal a block or two and really, that's about all the distance the FCC allows for a low-power, unlicensed transmitter. While you may think that more power is better, consider that radio waves can cause interference with other devices within your transmitter's coverage area, which is not only illegal, it could conceivably bring the FCC to your doorstep for an extremely healthy fine of $50,000 or more. So resist the urge to purchase that 5 or 10-watt unit and choose one in the 10-100mw (milliwatt) range instead. A block or two of range is really all you need -- outside of that, nobody would be able to see your light show anyway.<br /> <br /> :Any transmitter needs an antenna of some kind, and some DIY'ers have found that a simple 3-5' wire connected to the transmitter's antenna output works adequately. But without getting into the seriously deep physics involved, suffice to say that the best success is had with antennas that are "matched" to the transmitter's electronics and transmitting frequency. Often, a transmitter will come with what's supposed to be a good match, but that's not always the case. You can, however, build your own very high-performance dipole antenna, and the directions for doing that are included below. The build is an easy one and should take only an hour or two using easy-to-find parts at your local home improvement center.<br /> <br /> ::'''* [[How to Make a Dipole Antenna]]''' - an easy DIY project for an inexpensive yet high-performance antenna<br /> <br /> <br /> :'''IMPORTANT''' - with most any transmitter, NEVER power up the transmitter without an antenna! This can permanently damage the transmitter's output electronics because without an antenna, there's no place for the "power" to go. Likewise and for the same reason, never 'short-out' the antenna connection, either.</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=FM_Transmitting_Antennas&diff=3247 FM Transmitting Antennas 2024-05-28T14:22:56Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:If you're using a low-power FM transmitter, you're going to need a good antenna so that your station's signal is clean and clear. It doesn't take much to transmit a nice signal a block or two and really, that's about all the distance the FCC allows for a low-power, unlicensed transmitter. While you may think that more power is better, consider that radio waves can cause interference with other devices within your transmitter's coverage area, which is not only illegal, it could conceivably bring the FCC to your doorstep for an extremely healthy fine ($50,000 or more). So resist the urge to purchase that 5 or 10-watt unit and choose one in the 10-100mw (milliwatt) range instead. A block or two of range is really all you need -- outside of that, nobody would be able to see your light show anyway.<br /> <br /> :Any transmitter needs an antenna of some kind, and some DIY'ers have found that a simple 3-5' wire connected to the transmitter's antenna output works adequately. But without getting into the seriously deep physics involved, suffice to say that the best success is had with antennas that are "matched" to the transmitter's electronics and transmitting frequency. Often, a transmitter will come with what's supposed to be a good match, but that's not always the case. You can, however, build your own very high-performance dipole antenna, and the directions for doing that are included below. The build is an easy one and should take only an hour or two using easy-to-find parts at your local home improvement center.<br /> <br /> ::'''* [[How to Make a Dipole Antenna]]''' - an easy DIY project for an inexpensive yet high-performance antenna<br /> <br /> <br /> :'''IMPORTANT''' - with most any transmitter, NEVER power up the transmitter without an antenna! This can permanently damage the transmitter's output electronics because without an antenna, there's no place for the "power" to go. Likewise and for the same reason, never 'short-out' the antenna connection, either.</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=FM_Transmitting_Antennas&diff=3246 FM Transmitting Antennas 2024-05-28T14:21:56Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:If you're using a low-power FM transmitter, you're going to need a good antenna so that your station's signal is clean and clear. It doesn't take much to transmit a nice signal a block or two and really, that's about all the distance the FCC allows for a low-power, unlicensed transmitter. While you may think that more power is better, consider that radio waves can cause interference with other devices within your transmitter's coverage area, which is not only illegal, it could conceivably bring the FCC to your doorstep for an extremely healthy fine ($50,000 or more). So resist the urge to purchase that 5 or 10-watt unit and choose one in the 10-100mw (milliwatt) range instead. A block or two of range is really all you need -- outside of that, nobody would be able to see your light show anyway.<br /> <br /> :Any transmitter needs an antenna of some kind, and some DIY'ers have found that a simple 3-5' wire connected to the transmitter's antenna output works adequately. But without getting into the seriously deep physics involved, suffice to say that the best success is had with antennas that are "matched" to the transmitter's electronics and transmitting frequency. Often, a transmitter will come with what's supposed to be a good match, but that's not always the case. You can, however, build your own very high-performance dipole antenna, and the directions for doing that are included below. The build is an easy one and should take only an hour or two using easy-to-find parts at your local home improvement center.<br /> <br /> ::'''* [[How to Make a Dipole Antenna]]''' - an easy DIY project for an inexpensive yet high-performance antenna<br /> <br /> <br /> :'''IMPORTANT''' - with most any transmitter, NEVER power up the transmitter without an antenna! This can permanently -the transmitter's output electronics because without an antenna, there's no place for the "power" to go. Likewise, never 'short-out' the antenna connection, for the same reason.</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=FM_Transmitting_Antennas&diff=3245 FM Transmitting Antennas 2024-05-28T13:59:04Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>:If you're using a low-power FM transmitter, you're going to need a good antenna so that your station's signal is clean and clear.<br /> <br /> :Any transmitter needs an antenna of some kind, and without getting into the seriously deep physics involved, suffice to say that the best success is had with antennas that are "matched" to the transmitter's electronics. Often, a transmitter will come with what's supposed to be a good match, but that's not always the case. You can, however, build your own that will be a very high-performance dipole unit, and the directions for doing that are included below. The build is an easy one and should take only an hour or two using easy-to-find parts at your local home improvement center.<br /> <br /> ::'''* [[How to Make a Dipole Antenna]]''' - an easy DIY project for an inexpensive yet high-performance antenna</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Products/Sources&diff=3244 Products/Sources 2024-05-28T13:48:59Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Here are some sources DIY'ers have used to acquire audio-related tools. These aren't the ONLY sources -- just something to get you started. This graphic is courtesy of Jason Rasmussen's fine video presentation.<br /> <br /> [[File:Recommended products.png]]</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Recommended_products.png&diff=3243 File:Recommended products.png 2024-05-28T13:47:04Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3240 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T19:15:16Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> :EQUIPMENT<br /> :: MICROPHONE. You'll need a microphone to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. You can even try the built-in microphone in a laptop or plug an external mic into a desktop computer. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: HEADPHONES/EARBUDS. This can be handy or perhaps essential while you need to listen to a musical track while recording your vocal track.<br /> <br /> :: RECORDING GEAR. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive ($40-$150) digital recorder such as those made by Tascam, Sony, Zoom or Olympus; some are better for music than others. But be careful about fan noise or other ambient noise which can also be picked up by the microphone!<br /> <br /> :: SOFTWARE. Production software doesn't have to be expensive. A terrific solution is the free Audacity software, which can also serve as your mixing platform as you merge your voiceover on top of background music. Audacity allows adding single or multiple stereo tracks at any time you want. It also makes multiple takes easy and you can view them all right on the screen. If you work it right, you can make yourself sound like a crowd or even a choir. It's quite a powerful piece of software.<br /> <br /> :PROBLEMS<br /> ::POPS and ESSES. When you speak, air is emitted out over your lips. If a puff of air happens to hit the microphone, it can create a "pop" of sound. Same with words that have an S or an F in them -- these can sometimes create a hissing sound in the recording. To minimize these two problems, position the microphone away from your mouth and slightly off to the side so that you're not speaking directly into it. Another good location is several inches away and about equal to the level of your forehead. You can also fashion a wind screen by cutting a hole in a piece of foam in the shape of your microphone and mounting it onto the mic so that puffs of air can't directly strike the mic. Alternately, a better solution is to purchase a wind screen that uses a screw-mount for your microphone stand; such a screen is positioned between the mic and your mouth and serves to eliminate the puffs of air completely. These are also fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon. <br /> <br /> :Q & A<br /> ::Q: How many announcements or voiceovers do I need in my show? <br /> ::A: Hey, it's your show; you decide! It's only necessary to have them if you feel the need to inform your viewers of something you want them to know.<br /> <br /> ::Q: My show is an hour long. Would you suggest two or three announcements?<br /> ::A: See first answer above...<br /> <br /> ::Q: How do I incorporate an announcement into my show?<br /> ::A: Think of it as its own sequence, either with or without music. Create a sequence using your normal sequencing software, add the audio track to it and put it somewhere in your show between two other sequences. Talk about easy to do!<br /> <br /> ::Q: I have a headset mic/earphones. Will that work?<br /> ::A: Try it!<br /> <br /> ::Q: Should I use any visual effects during my voiceover or announcement?<br /> ::A: See the first answer above...<br /> <br /> ::Q: If I use more than one voiceover/announcement in my show, should they be different?<br /> ::A: When you watch television, how do you like seeing the same commercials over and over? See the first answer above...</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3239 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T19:08:56Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> :EQUIPMENT<br /> :: MICROPHONE. You'll need a microphone to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. You can even try the built-in microphone in a laptop or plug an external mic into a desktop computer. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: HEADPHONES/EARBUDS. This can be handy or perhaps essential while you need to listen to a musical track while recording your vocal track.<br /> <br /> :: RECORDING GEAR. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive ($40-$150) digital recorder such as those made by Tascam, Sony, Zoom or Olympus; some are better for music than others. But be careful about fan noise or other ambient noise which can also be picked up by the microphone!<br /> <br /> :: SOFTWARE. Production software doesn't have to be expensive. A terrific solution is the free Audacity software, which can also serve as your mixing platform as you merge your voiceover on top of background music. Audacity allows adding single or multiple stereo tracks at any time you want. It also makes multiple takes easy and you can view them all right on the screen. If you work it right, you can make yourself sound like a crowd or even a choir. It's quite a powerful piece of software.<br /> <br /> :PROBLEMS<br /> ::POPS and ESSES. When you speak, air is emitted out over your lips. If a puff of air happens to hit the microphone, it can create a "pop" of sound. Same with words that have an S or an F in them -- these can sometimes create a hissing sound in the recording. To minimize these two problems, position the microphone away from your mouth and slightly off to the side so that you're not speaking directly into it. Another good location is several inches away and about equal to the level of your forehead. You can also fashion a wind screen by cutting a hole in a piece of foam in the shape of your microphone and mounting it onto the mic so that puffs of air can't directly strike the mic. Alternately, a better solution is to purchase a wind screen that uses a screw-mount for your microphone stand; such a screen is positioned between the mic and your mouth and serves to eliminate the puffs of air completely. These are also fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon. <br /> <br /> :Q & A<br /> ::Q: How many announcements or voiceovers do I need in my show? <br /> ::A: Hey, it's your show; you decide! It's only necessary to have them if you feel the need to inform your viewers of something you want them to know.<br /> <br /> ::Q: My show is an hour long. Would you suggest two or three announcements?<br /> ::A: See first answer above...<br /> <br /> ::Q: How do I incorporate an announcement into my show?<br /> ::A: Think of it as its own sequence, either with or without music. Create a sequence using your normal sequencing software, add the audio track to it and put it somewhere in your show between two other sequences. Talk about easy to do!<br /> <br /> ::Q: Should I use any visual effects during my voiceover or announcement?<br /> ::A: See the first answer above...<br /> <br /> ::Q: If I use more than one voiceover/announcement in my show, should they be different?<br /> ::A: When you watch television, how do you like seeing the same commercials over and over? See the first answer above...</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3238 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T19:03:02Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> :EQUIPMENT<br /> :: MICROPHONE. You'll need a microphone to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. You can even try the built-in microphone in a laptop or plug an external mic into a desktop computer. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: HEADPHONES/EARBUDS. This can be handy or perhaps essential while you need to listen to a musical track while recording your vocal track.<br /> <br /> :: RECORDING GEAR. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive ($40-$150) digital recorder such as those made by Tascam, Sony, Zoom or Olympus; some are better for music than others. But be careful about fan noise or other ambient noise which can also be picked up by the microphone!<br /> <br /> :: SOFTWARE. Production software doesn't have to be expensive. A terrific solution is the free Audacity software, which can also serve as your mixing platform as you merge your voiceover on top of background music. Audacity allows adding single or multiple stereo tracks at any time you want. It also makes multiple takes easy and you can view them all right on the screen. If you work it right, you can make yourself sound like a crowd or even a choir. It's quite a powerful piece of software.<br /> <br /> :PROBLEMS<br /> ::POPS and ESSES. When you speak, air is emitted out over your lips. If a puff of air happens to hit the microphone, it can create a "pop" of sound. Same with words that have an "s" or an "f" in them -- these can sometimes create a hissing sound in the recording. To minimize these two problems, position the microphone away from your mouth and slightly off to the side so that you're not speaking directly into it. Another good location is several inches away and about equal to the level of your forehead. You can also fashion a wind screen by cutting a hole in a piece of foam in the shape of your microphone and mounting it onto the mic so that puffs of air can't directly strike the mic. Alternately, a better solution is to purchase a wind screen that uses a screw-mount for your microphone stand; such a screen is positioned between the mic and your mouth and serves to eliminate the puffs of air completely. These are also fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon. <br /> <br /> :Q & A<br /> ::Q: How many announcements or voiceovers do I need in my show? <br /> ::A: Hey, it's your show; you decide! It's only necessary to have them if you feel the need to inform your viewers of something you want them to know. There's no hard and fast rule.<br /> <br /> ::Q: My show is an hour long. Would you suggest two or three announcements?<br /> ::A: See first answer above...<br /> <br /> ::Q: How do I incorporate an announcement into my show?<br /> ::A: Think of it as its own sequence, either with or without music. Create a sequence using your normal sequencing software, add the audio track to it and put it somewhere in your show between two other sequences. Talk about easy to do!<br /> <br /> ::Q: Should I use any visual effects during my voiceover or announcement?<br /> ::A: See the first answer above...<br /> <br /> ::Q: If I use more than one voiceover/announcement in my show, should they be different?<br /> ::A: When you watch television, how do you like seeing the same commercials over and over? See the first answer above...</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3237 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T18:59:33Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> :EQUIPMENT<br /> :: MICROPHONE. You'll need a microphone to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. You can even try the built-in microphone in a laptop or plug an external mic into a desktop computer. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: HEADPHONES/EARBUDS. This can be handy or perhaps essential while you need to listen to a musical track while recording your vocal track.<br /> <br /> :: RECORDING GEAR. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive ($40-$150) digital recorder such as those made by Tascam, Sony, Zoom or Olympus; some are better for music than others. But be careful about fan noise or other ambient noise which can also be picked up by the microphone!<br /> <br /> :: SOFTWARE. Production software doesn't have to be expensive. A terrific solution is the free Audacity software, which can also serve as your mixing platform as you merge your voiceover on top of background music. Audacity allows adding single or multiple stereo tracks at any time you want. It also makes multiple takes easy and you can view them all right on the screen. If you work it right, you can make yourself sound like a crowd or even a choir. It's quite a powerful piece of software.<br /> <br /> :PROBLEMS<br /> ::POPS and ESSES. When you speak, air is emitted out over your lips. If a puff of air happens to hit the microphone, it can create a "pop" of sound. Same with words that have an "s" or an "f" in them -- these can sometimes create a hissing sound in the recording. To minimize these two problems, position the microphone away from your mouth and slightly off to the side so that you're not speaking directly into it. Another good location is several inches away and about equal to the level of your forehead. You can also fashion a wind screen by cutting a hole in a piece of foam in the shape of your microphone and mounting it onto the mic so that puffs of air can't directly strike the mic. Alternately, a better solution is to purchase a wind screen that uses a screw-mount for your microphone stand; such a screen is positioned between the mic and your mouth and serves to eliminate the puffs of air completely. These are also fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon. <br /> <br /> :Q & A<br /> ::Q: How many announcements or voiceovers do I need in my show? <br /> ::A: Hey, it's your show; you decide! It's only necessary to have them if you feel the need to inform your viewers of something you want them to know. There's no hard and fast rule.<br /> <br /> ::Q: My show is an hour long. Would you suggest two or three announcements?<br /> ::A: See first answer above...<br /> <br /> ::Q: How do I incorporate an announcement into my show?<br /> ::A: Think of it as its own sequence, either with or without music. Create a sequence using your normal sequencing software, add the audio track to it and put it somewhere in your show between two other sequences. Talk about easy to do!<br /> <br /> ::Q: Should I use any visual effects during my voiceover or announcement?<br /> ::A: See the first answer above...</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3236 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T18:34:23Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> :EQUIPMENT<br /> :: MICROPHONE. You'll need a microphone to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. You can even try the built-in microphone in a laptop or plug an external mic into a desktop computer. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: HEADPHONES/EARBUDS. This can be handy or perhaps essential while you need to listen to a musical track while recording your vocal track.<br /> <br /> :: RECORDING GEAR. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive ($40-$150) digital recorder such as those made by Tascam, Sony, Zoom or Olympus; some are better for music than others. But be careful about fan noise or other ambient noise which can also be picked up by the microphone!<br /> <br /> :: SOFTWARE. Production software doesn't have to be expensive. A terrific solution is the free Audacity software, which can also serve as your mixing platform as you merge your voiceover on top of background music. Audacity allows adding single or multiple stereo tracks at any time you want. It also makes multiple takes easy and you can view them all right on the screen. If you work it right, you can make yourself sound like a crowd or even a choir. It's quite a powerful piece of software.<br /> <br /> :PROBLEMS<br /> ::POPS and ESSES. When you speak, air is emitted out over your lips. If a puff of air happens to hit the microphone, it can create a "pop" of sound. Same with words that have an "s" or an "f" in them -- these can sometimes create a hissing sound in the recording. To minimize these two problems, position the microphone away from your mouth and slightly off to the side so that you're not speaking directly into it. Another good location is several inches away and about equal to the level of your forehead. You can also fashion a wind screen by cutting a hole in a piece of foam in the shape of your microphone and mounting it onto the mic so that puffs of air can't directly strike the mic. Alternately, a better solution is to purchase a wind screen that uses a screw-mount for your microphone stand; such a screen is positioned between the mic and your mouth and serves to eliminate the puffs of air completely. These are also fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon. </div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3235 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T18:32:16Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> :EQUIPMENT<br /> :: MICROPHONE. You'll need a microphone to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: HEADPHONES/EARBUDS. This can be handy or perhaps essential while you need to listen to a musical track while recording your vocal track.<br /> <br /> :: RECORDING GEAR. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive ($40-$150) digital recorder such as those made by Tascam, Sony, Zoom or Olympus; some are better for music than others. You can even try the built-in microphone in a laptop or plug an external mic into a desktop computer. But be careful about fan noise or other ambient noise which can also be picked up by the microphone!<br /> <br /> :: SOFTWARE. Production software doesn't have to be expensive. A terrific solution is the free Audacity software, which can also serve as your mixing platform as you merge your voiceover on top of background music. Audacity allows adding single or multiple stereo tracks at any time you want. It also makes multiple takes easy and you can view them all right on the screen. If you work it right, you can make yourself sound like a crowd or even a choir. It's quite a powerful piece of software.<br /> <br /> :PROBLEMS<br /> ::POPS and ESSES. When you speak, air is emitted out over your lips. If a puff of air happens to hit the microphone, it can create a "pop" of sound. Same with words that have an "s" or an "f" in them -- these can sometimes create a hissing sound in the recording. To minimize these two problems, position the microphone away from your mouth and slightly off to the side so that you're not speaking directly into it. Another good location is several inches away and about equal to the level of your forehead. You can also fashion a wind screen by cutting a hole in a piece of foam in the shape of your microphone and mounting it onto the mic so that puffs of air can't directly strike the mic. Alternately, a better solution is to purchase a wind screen that uses a screw-mount for your microphone stand; such a screen is positioned between the mic and your mouth and serves to eliminate the puffs of air completely. These are also fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon. </div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3234 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T18:31:22Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> :EQUIPMENT<br /> :: MICROPHONE. You'll need a microphone to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: HEADPHONES/EARBUDS. This can be handy or perhaps essential while you need to listen to a musical track while recording your vocal track.<br /> <br /> :: RECORDING GEAR. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive ($40-$150) digital recorder such as those made by Tascam, Sony, Zoom or Olympus; some are better for music than others. You can even try the built-in microphone in a laptop or plug an external mic into a desktop computer. But be careful about fan noise or other ambient noise which can also be picked up by the microphone!<br /> <br /> :: SOFTWARE. Production software doesn't have to be expensive. A terrific solution is the free Audacity software, which can also serve as your mixing platform as you merge your voiceover on top of background music. Audacity allows adding single or multiple stereo tracks at any time you want. It also makes multiple takes easy and you can view them all right on the screen. If you work it right, you can make yourself sound like a crowd or even a choir. It's quite a powerful piece of software.<br /> <br /> :PROBLEMS<br /> ::POPS and ESSES. When you speak, air is emitted out over your lips. If a puff of air happens to hit the microphone, it can create a "pop" of sound. Same with words that have an "s" in them -- these can sometimes create a hissing sound in the recording. To minimize these two problems, position the microphone away from your mouth and slightly off to the side so that you're not speaking directly into it. Another good location is several inches away and about equal to the level of your forehead. You can also fashion a wind screen by cutting a hole in a piece of foam in the shape of your microphone and mounting it onto the mic so that puffs of air can't directly strike the mic. Alternately, a better solution is to purchase a wind screen that uses a screw-mount for your microphone stand; such a screen is positioned between the mic and your mouth and serves to eliminate the puffs of air completely. These are also fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon. </div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3233 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T18:28:11Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> EQUIPMENT<br /> :: You'll need a microphone, of course, to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: Headphones/earbuds. This can be handy or perhaps essential while you need to listen to a musical track while recording your vocal track.<br /> <br /> :: Recording gear. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive ($40-$150) digital recorder such as those made by Tascam, Sony, Zoom or Olympus; some are better for music than others. You can even try the built-in microphone in a laptop or plug an external mic into a desktop computer. But be careful about fan noise or other ambient noise which can also be picked up by the microphone!<br /> <br /> :: Software. Production software doesn't have to be expensive. A terrific solution is the free Audacity software, which can also serve as your mixing platform as you merge your voiceover on top of background music. Audacity allows adding single or multiple stereo tracks at any time you want. It also makes multiple takes easy and you can view them all right on the screen. If you work it right, you can make yourself sound like a crowd or even a choir. It's quite a powerful piece of software.<br /> <br /> PROBLEMS<br /> ::POPS and ESSES. When you speak, air is emitted out over your lips. If a puff of air happens to hit the microphone, it can create a "pop" of sound. Same with words that have an "s" in them -- these can sometimes create a hissing sound in the recording. To minimize these two problems, position the microphone away from your mouth and slightly off to the side so that you're not speaking directly into it. Another good location is several inches away and about equal to the level of your forehead. You can also fashion a wind screen by cutting a hole in a piece of foam in the shape of your microphone and mounting it onto the mic so that puffs of air can't directly strike the mic. Alternately, a better solution is to purchase a wind screen that uses a screw-mount for your microphone stand; such a screen is positioned between the mic and your mouth and serves to eliminate the puffs of air completely. These are also fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon. <br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3232 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T18:03:48Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> EQUIPMENT<br /> :: You'll need a microphone, of course, to record your voice. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, and it's even possible that the microphone on your smartphone may work adequately. It's worth a try!<br /> <br /> :: Recording gear. Again, your smartphone may be just fine -- there are plenty of audio recording apps available to download and use. Or consider purchasing an inexpensive (about $100) digital recorder such as those made by<br /> <br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3231 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T17:58:57Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> 'EQUIPMENT<br /> <br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3230 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T17:58:25Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, UNPREPAREDNESS IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> :::* EVALUATE. When you can comfortably read through your text (or memorize it?), record it and play it back. Listen critically or, better yet, have someone else listen to it. Do they understand it? Is it too long? Is any of it unnecessary? Is your tone comfortable and inviting or is it militaristic and threatening? Is the volume level consistent throughout? Are the words pronounced correctly and clearly? Re-record it several more times. Listen to all of them -- perhaps one is better than the others, or smoother, or calmer, or more comfortable.<br /> <br /> :::When you're satisfied, experiment with the background track (if there is one). You might start with a few seconds of music, then overlay your voiceover and later, finish with a few more seconds of music. Try different volume levels. Practice fading the volume down/up so that the change is gradual and not abrupt. You decide how quickly those fades go and whether you like the end result.<br /> <br /> 'EQUIPMENT'<br /> <br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3229 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T17:41:46Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> <br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> <br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> <br /> :::* PACE. People listen at different speeds, just as people talk at different speeds. Try to keep a consistent speaking pace. If you have a lot to say, consider breaking it into something shorter or simpler. If you do indeed have a lot to say, ask yourself if everything truly is important, because believe it or not, in all likelihood it won't be. <br /> <br /> :::* TONE. You're having a quiet, personal conversation with the listener, just as if you were sitting across a kitchen table from him or her. This kind of tone would likely be better understood and appreciated than one that sounds militaristic and harsh. Remember who your audience is. They're not the enemy. <br /> <br /> :::* PRACTICE. While the listener is not your enemy, unpreparedness IS! Don't expect to make a perfect recording on the first take. Or the second or third. Practice reading your text -- get your pace down. If there are words that are tricky to pronounce, look for different, simpler words. Remember that diction and clarity is vitally important to a successful voiceover or announcement. <br /> <br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3228 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T17:08:07Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another track containing speech or lyrics is generally not a good idea.<br /> :::* LENGTH. Shorter is always better. Your audience didn't come to hear you. You know how annoying it is to see multiple commercials on television, right?<br /> :::* <br /> <br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Voiceovers/Announcements&diff=3227 Voiceovers/Announcements 2023-09-21T16:53:11Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>::Not all shows need annoucements, but it's sometimes nice to tell your visitors about your show. You likely have neighbors, too, and perhaps you don't want visitors to honk their horns, drive on lawns, and so forth so you want to post some 'rules of the road,' so to speak. Or maybe your show is supporting a favorite cause and you want to make sure your visitors have the opportunity to donate to that cause. <br /> <br /> ::There's no magic to a good voiceover. Some obvious and easy requirements are:<br /> <br /> :::* VOCAL CLARITY. If the listener can't understand what you're saying, the voiceover won't be successful.<br /> :::* APPROPRIATE VOLUME. If speaking over a music track, be sure to lower the background music enough so the listener's ear doesn't have to fight between the music and your message. Laying a voiceover on top of another speech track isn't recommended.<br /> <br /> <br /> - in progress -</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Editorial_Guidelines&diff=3226 Editorial Guidelines 2023-09-21T16:32:55Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div>Because DIYers depend on Wiki content to be not only informative but clear and correct, we have established a few guidelines for those who wish to edit or add content to the diychristmas.org Wiki. These guidelines are not intended to restrict contributors but rather to ensure that the quality of the content remains very high. Therefore, it is imperative that content be thoroughly proofread for the following:<br /> <br /> :*'''Spelling:''' There is no excuse for spelling errors. Typographical errors may happen from time to time but spelling errors are usually blatantly obvious. Because the Wiki software does not include a spellchecker, it is suggested that you prepare your documents using a word processor that has a spellchecker before placing the corrected text in the Wiki. Copy/paste usually works quite well from a word processor screen into the Wiki editing screen. Remember that words such as '''"they're", "their", and "there"''' are all correct spellings of proper words, but they have entirely different meanings that a spellchecker likely won't catch. Be sure the words have the right context in your sentences.<br /> <br /> :*'''Grammar:''' While we don't expect to see Shakespearean verse, it is our expectation that authors will use sound grammatical sentence structure when composing content for the Wiki. Make your writing clear as a bell; eliminate ambiguity and/or misleading references. Short sentences are generally much more clear than long, compound sentences. Don't dangle your modifiers, but if you modify a dongle, consider authoring a wiki document that explains it.<br /> <br /> :*'''Photos:''' "Any old photo will do" is not a good way to approach adding photographs to documents. Make certain that the photos and graphics you insert are clear and focused. Consider cropping-out photographic content that could be confusing or misleading. Remember that not all pictures are worth a thousand words; only ''really good'' pictures are. And while you're at it, please try to keep your photos no larger than 800x600 pixels in size. This helps the Wiki software to convert and display them, making the reader's experience faster and more pleasant.<br /> <br /> :*'''Layouts:''' The Wiki software doesn't provide for unlimited flexibility, but it does a good job at presenting information in an easy-to-read format. If you have assembly procedures for your project, consider using bullet points or numbering your procedure setups. This will not only help you formulate your thoughts and put the steps into a logical order, but will help the reader understand how to get from start to finish in recreating your project. <br /> <br /> :*'''Accuracy:''' All other issues aside, if the content is not accurate, it has no value and should not be posted in the Wiki. "Closeness doesn't count except in horseshoes" is an appropriate adage in this case. Worse, inaccurate information could be dangerous -- remember, in many cases we're dealing with electricity in our hobby!<br /> <br /> :*'''Attachments:''' We have enabled a rather broad list of file types that can be uploaded as attachments to Wiki documentation. Allowable types are: png, gif, jpg, jpeg, jp2, webp, ppt, pdf, psd, mp3, xls, xlsx, swf, doc, docx, odt, odc, odp, odg, mpp, zip, pro, vix, fseq and xseq.<br /> <br /> :*'''Copyrights:''' Do not upload copyrighted text, photos or files. If you wish to add your own personal copyright to complete pages that you author you are free to do so; be sure to add your copyright statement to your text on a separate line. If you want to quote a paragraph or text that has been authored by someone else, be sure to give credit where credit is due by appropriately referencing the author and document in a footnote. If you don't know how to do that, please don't copy or quote the text.<br /> <br /> == How to become an author/contributor ==<br /> <br /> If you are willing to meet these few editorial guidelines, we'd love to add your name to the list of wiki authors. To be added, send a personal message to '''jchuchla''' in the [http://diychristmas.org/vb1/ '''diychristmas.org'''] forum along with your email address and the topic that you'd like to either create or edit. Your email address is required so that your access password can be emailed to you. After logging into the Wiki, you'll be able to change that password to one that you prefer.</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Firesticks&diff=3223 Firesticks 2022-12-03T14:19:23Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> A firestick is simply a post that's covered/wrapped with lights. They can be short, tall, skinny or fat. A common post material is PVC pipe, but they can be made out of 2x2 wood just as well. Most users wrap lights around the pipe in short sections and assign multiple channels to each firestick so it can be animated.<br /> <br /> '''Simple'''<br /> Here's an example of a short, 44" tall PVC firestick that has a topper ball. It's wrapped with three strings of 50-count white incandescent mini-lights, and the topper ball was made by splitting a whiffle baseball, stuffing it with a short string of 15 white mini-lights and zip-tieing it to a couple holes drilled in the top of the firestick. Prior to assembly, the PVC and whiffle ball were spray painted with flat black paint to provide a better wrapping surface as flat paint provides more friction for wrapping, as well as hiding the wires. As each of these firesticks had 4 channels, they were controlled by DirkCheapSSRs inserted up inside the PVC pipe; they were zip-tied to a short piece of rebar pounded into the ground when mounted in the yard.<br /> <br /> [[File:Firestick.JPG|250px]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Pixel Firestick'''<br /> Here's an example of a firestick that uses multiple strips of smart pixels attached to a PVC pipe and then covered with shrinktube for waterproofing. This particular example was 17' long and used three, 5-meter pixel strips, connected in parallel and driven by a single ESPixelStick. <br /> <br /> [[File:Shrink-3.JPG|750px]]<br /> <br /> Here's quick test showing how they look...<br /> https://vimeo.com/670380047</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Terminology/Definitions&diff=3222 Terminology/Definitions 2022-12-03T13:52:33Z

<p>Dirknerkle: /* D */</p> <hr /> <div>This page is a constant work in progress as the hobby is constantly changing.<br /> {{Compact_ToC}}<br /> == A ==<br /> '''AC — alternating current.''' An electrical current that reverses directions at regular intervals. Wall power, or mains, is AC and in North America, it cycles 60 times per second, while in England and Australia, it cycles 50 times per second.<br /> <br /> '''Arduino.''' An Open Source system for developing microprocessor-controlled projects, including a reference design for a project board, as well as an integrated development environment (IDE) that supports an easy-to-use programming language and linking to the Atmel firmware development chain. Further, a series of printed-circuit boards that can plug into the Arduino board — called “shields” — have been developed for the project boards, extending the capabilities of the project environment.<br /> <br /> '''ATmega.''' A brand of microcontroller developed and sold by Atmel Corp. The Arduino line of project boards uses ATmega microprocessors (the 168, 328p, 1280 and 2560, depending upon the Arduino model). ATMega chips have an entire different firmware development chain than chips from [[Terminology/Definitions#M|Microchip Technology]] and therefore can’t share code.<br /> <br /> '''Audacity.''' Open Source audio editing application available for a variety of personal computer operating systems. See http://www.audacityteam.org/.<br /> <br /> '''AusChristmas.''' A [http://www.auschristmaslighting.com/ web forum] that focuses on Christmas lights in Australia.<br /> <br /> '''Amps (amperes).''' A unit of electrical current, an amp is the amount of electricity being drawn through the power system. A product that draws 10 amps uses twice as much electricity as a product that draws five amps. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#E|Electricity basics]].<br /> <br /> == B ==<br /> '''BBB/BBG - Beaglebone Black/Beaglebone Green''' A system on a chip board, these are used for running falcon player (FPP) software to run your show. These microcomputers are very powerful and have numerous capes that attach to them allowing them to do a myriad of things for your show <br /> <br /> '''BNC — bayonet nut connection.''' A type of common radio frequency connector used on coaxial cables. See [[Terminology/Definitions#R|RG-58]].<br /> <br /> '''Board.''' A shortened term for 'circuit board,' which is a thin layer of fiberglass or other material that has electrical circuitry fused to it. Electronic components are soldered to the 'board' circuitry to create electronic devices such as controllers.<br /> <br /> '''BOM — bill of materials.''' A list of parts — including quantities, manufacturers and serial numbers — needed to build a specific project.<br /> <br /> == C ==<br /> '''C7, C9 light bulbs.''' Known as the “traditional” Christmas light, these types of strings had their hey-day in the 1950s and 1960s. Many lighting hobbyists switched to “mini” bulbs in the 1970s. The C7 bulb is about 2-inches tall, while the C9 is about 3-inches tall. The C7 uses the candelabra base, while the C9 uses the intermediate base (both of which are [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edison_screw Edison screw] types). Both sizes come in both clear and opaque colors and both come in 7-watt versions, while the C7 comes in a 2.5-watt version and the C9 in a 3.5-watt version. The maximum number of 2.5-watt lamps per 15-amp circuit is about 575 (or 765 lamps per 20-amp circuit) or 300 lamps per outlet, while the maximum number of 7-watt lamps per 15-amp circuit is about 200 (274 per 20-amp circuit) or about 125 lamps per outlet. These terms have also been appropriated by [[Terminology/Definitions#L|LED]] Christmas-light makers and therefore C7 and C9 LEDs are also available.<br /> <br /> '''Capacitor.''' An electrical component that stores an electric charge and releases it when its needed. Typically used in Christmas lighting as a filter in power supply circuits.<br /> <br /> '''Cat3, Cat5, Cat5e, Cat6.''' Traditionally used as the cable in Ethernet networking, “Cat” is short for “category” and the numbers refer to different signaling standards. Cat5 cable has four pairs of 22- to 24-gauge wires, usually designated by the colors orange, green, blue and brown; each colored wire in the pair has a solid color and the same color with a white stripe. The orange/orange-white pair in Cat5 is twisted, while all the pairs in Cat5e and Cat6 are twisted.<br /> <br /> '''Channel.''' In Christmas lighting, the method of identifying a lighting element in sequencing software. An element can be an individual lamp (such as in a smart pixel) or a string of lights.<br /> <br /> '''Circuit.''' The path (usually wire) through which current flows between an electrical energy source and an electrical device, appliance or fixture.<br /> <br /> '''Co-op.''' See [[Terminology/Definitions#G|group buy]].<br /> <br /> '''Color organ.''' An electronic device that takes in audio signals and automatically outputs digital signals that can be assigned to lights. While a color organ can be designed to respond to music, the result isn’t as appealing as a song sequenced by a person.<br /> <br /> '''Controller.''' A device that accepts signals from a computer running a lighting sequencer and controls lights based on those signals (turning them on or off, dimming up or dimming down).<br /> <br /> '''Current.''' The amount of electricity flowing through a circuit, measured in [[Terminology/Definitions#A|Amperes]] (A), milliamperes (ma) or microamperes (ua).<br /> <br /> == D ==<br /> '''dB — decibel.''' A unit of relative sound or radio transmission intensity.<br /> <br /> '''DC — direct current.''' An electrical current that flows continuously in one direction. Batteries and fuel cells produce direct current and alternating current can be rectified and changed into direct current with diodes.<br /> <br /> '''Decoupling capacitor.''' A capacitor that is included in circuits with microcontrollers to insure that voltages don’t dip and spike elsewhere around the circuit because of the needs of the microcontroller. Like a water tower in a community, the circuit slowly fills up the decoupling cap with electricity. When the microcontroller needs a burst of energy (or, in the analogy, if somebody needs to flush three toilets at once), the decoupling cap provides the needed energy without the water pressure throughout the community dropping.<br /> <br /> '''DIGWDF Store''' The on-line store that once produced weird yet curiously helpful circuits, adapters and gizmos that helped DIY'ers create customized solutions to blinky-flashy problems. DIGWDF had three main engineers, Grelllbbb, Hngnnorrgg and Fffllleeennnkkk, and the three of them collaborated and do most of the creative work. Periodically they posted information in the forum in a language that has been termed "Lutefisk-ese." It's a somewhat phonetic language that takes getting used to, which seems somewhat consistent with the various weird adventures the engineers got into from time to time... And those are all meant to be taken tongue-in-cheek... What IS true however is that ALL profits from the DIGWDF Store, however small, were directed toward the expenses of running the diychristmas.org site and forum. Sadly, the DIGWDF Store closed operations on Dec 31, 2018.<br /> <br /> '''Diode.''' An electrical device that will allow current to pass in only one direction.<br /> <br /> '''DIP — dual in-line package.''' A method of mounting integrated circuits, microcontrollers and other electronics components on printed circuit boards. Sometimes called “through-hole package,” because holes are drilled in the PC boards and the package is soldered to the board on the side opposite the package. Compare this with “surface mount,” where components are mounted to the PC board on its top side by soldering leads directly to pads.<br /> <br /> '''Dipole.''' A basic radio antenna that consists of two elements, each of equal length. The length of the elements is an algorithmic function of the frequency over which the broadcast is being made. It’s used in Christmas light shows by FM transmitters to broadcast music.<br /> <br /> '''DirkCheap.''' A concept and philosopy that Dirknerkle used to help lower the cost of participating in this hobby. It applies to several products the DIGWDF engineers created, such as the DirkCheapSSR, a no-frills 4-channel unit that is "dirt cheap" to make... In most cases, "DirkCheap" products used minimal parts due to their extra-sparse designs, such as no protective fusing or terminal blocks for convenience. It was the end-user's responsibility to address these issues on his/her own. The first product to carry this moniker was indeed the DirkCheapSSR, which lowered the DIYer's cost per A/C control channel by almost 70%, down to less than $1/channel.<br /> <br /> '''Dirknerkle.''' The patron saint of this site. Dirk runs not only the forums and wiki, but also was the proprietor of The DIGWDF Store [http://digwdf.org/ Dirknerkle’s Inventorium and Generally Worthless Device Factory], an online store that provided items of greater or lesser interest to holiday lighting enthusiasts. (based on sales totals, mostly lesser...)<br /> <br /> '''DIYC.''' Can refer to either [http://www.DoitYourselfChristmas.com DoitYourselfChristmas.com] or [http://www.DIYChristmas.org DIYChristmas.org].<br /> <br /> '''DMX (also known as DMX-512).''' Digital MultipleX. A theater and stage-lighting system based on the RS485 differential signaling electrical communications system that supports controlling light intensity across 255 steps. The system supports 512 different channels (called a “universe”) of lighting control and larger numbers of devices can be controlled by adding more transmitting controllers. Receiving controllers are daisy-chained together with each controller receiving and processing all 512 channels, but only acting upon those channels to which it has been assigned. Traditional DMX-512 uses five-pin XLR connectors, while in holiday-lighting [[Terminology/Definitions#C|Cat5]] cable and [[Terminology/Definitions#R|RJ45]] telecommunications products have been adopted. Renard DMX is one implementation of the DMX protocol that's designed for Renard-type controllers.<br /> <br /> == E ==<br /> '''E1.31.''' A digital standard protocol for transmitting [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX-512]] data over Ethernet networks.<br /> <br /> '''EDM Design.''' A South African company that makes low-powered FM transmitters. While these are sold in the United States as “[http://www.edmdesign.com/orders-1.html kits]” — a term used to skirt FCC regulations — 99 percent of the transmitter comes completed.<br /> <br /> '''Electricity basics.''' The flow of electrons typically over wire, electricity is energy converted from fuels or natural resources and distributed to homes and businesses via a grid of utility companies. Electricity has three basic units: voltage, current (measured in amps) and resistance (measured in ohms). The basic equation of electrical engineering is that amps = volts divided by ohms. The fourth basic element of electricity is watts, which is volts times amps. The most common analogy used to describe electricity is that of plumbing and water: the pressure of water in a pipe is like voltage, while the flow of the water in a pipe is like amps.<br /> <br /> '''Electrolytic.''' A type of fixed capacitor. See [[Terminology/Definitions#C|capacitor]].<br /> <br /> '''Endless loop.''' A mistake in computer programming where instructions circle back and forth, never ending. See [[Terminology/Definitions#I|infinite loop]].<br /> <br /> '''Engineer.''' One who designs, builds, invents, maintains or otherwise creates or supervises processes, structures, machines, devices, materials and/or systems. At DIGWDF (see [[Terminology/Definitions#D|Dirknerkle]]), staff engineers include Fffllleeennnkkk, Grelllbbbb and Hngnnorrgg. They were supervised by Mr. Nerkle and Monica Momglobs, the DIGWDF receptionist.<br /> <br /> == F ==<br /> '''Farad.''' A unit of measurement for electrical capacitance. See [[Terminology/Definitions#C|capacitor]].<br /> <br /> '''FCC — The Federal Communications Commission.''' The FCC was established by the Communications Act of 1934 and is charged with regulating interstate and international communications by radio, television, wire (telegraph, telephone), satellite and cable.<br /> <br /> '''FCC Part 15.''' A section of the Federal Communications Commission’s rules and regulations that deals mainly with unlicensed transmissions. In the Christmas light world, FCC Part 15 is discussed because it regulates the way low-power FM transmitters, which are used in the Christmas lights community to broadcast the music that accompanies the light shows, should work. The general consensus in our community is that one way of measuring whether an FM transmitter might meet Part 15 rules is that it should not transmit further than 250 feet away from its antenna.<br /> <br /> '''Firmware.''' The set of instructions input into a microprocessor. Firmware is usually developed on a personal computer, compiled into assembly code and uploaded to the microprocessor.<br /> <br /> '''FM02.''' An inexpensive a low-powered FM radio transmitter that meets FCC Part 15 rule. Unfortunately, it was no longer manufactured after 2014. Also see [[Terminology/Definitions#V|Vastelec]].<br /> <br /> '''FPP - Falcon player''' Falcon player formerly known as Falcon Pi Player hence the fpp designation, is a linux based scheduling software ran on a Beaglebone Black or green (BBB/BBG) or Raspberry Pi system on a chip (soc) microcomputer. This is capable of running your entire show on one of these inexpensive boards. The Beaglebones have 1 usb and 1 ethernet out with no onboard sound, the Raspberry Pi's on the other hand have 2 to 4 usb outs, 1 ethernet out, and onboard sound, the latest version of the Pi has built in wifi. <br /> <br /> '''Full wave.''' A method of converting AC to DC using a rectifying circuit of a group of four diodes, called a bridge. A bridge rectifier can be a single component.<br /> <br /> '''Fuse.''' A device designed to make electronic and electrical circuits safer by breaking (“blowing”) in the event of an electrical short circuit or overload. A fuse will blow before wires become so hot they catch on fire.<br /> <br /> == G ==<br /> '''Gerber Files.''' - The standard file formats that PCB production facilities use to set up their equipment to manufacture the boards. Usually provided as a set of 8 or sometimes more files; each file describes a specific layer of the PCB, such as the top copper layer (GTL), bottom copper layer GBL), top solder mask (GTS), bottom solder mask (GBS), top silkscreen (GTO), bottom silkscreen (GBO), drill hole sizes (TXT or DRL) and a mechanical (outside dimension, GML) layer. Gerber files are generally produced by PCB design software as an export function.<br /> <br /> '''GFCI — ground fault circuit interrupter.''' An electrical safety device installed in a power panel, sub-panel or outlet box that instantly shuts off the electricity when a leakage to ground occurs. This leakage can increase the risk of electrical shock. A GFCI should be used in all outdoor high-voltage environments and the device should be tested on a regular basis.<br /> <br /> '''Grelllbbbdweeno''' - A variant of the Arduino, this is a stripped-down version without the bells and whistles that can be used to build into projects. It was invented by Grelllbbb, one of the DIGWDF engineers.<br /> <br /> '''Grounded/grounding.''' A conducting connection, whether intentional or accidental, by which an electric circuit or equipment is connected to the earth, or to some conducting body of relatively large extent that serves in place of the earth.<br /> <br /> '''Group buy.''' Volunteers take the initiative to gather the components of a project and resell them to other hobbyists. Because electronics retailers and wholesalers frequently give quantity discounts, a group buy leverages the buying power of members of the community, delivering lower prices for a project.<br /> <br /> == H ==<br /> '''HC595.''' A serial, shift-register microchip that can control up to eight different devices. HC595 chips can be connected in series, allowing for an almost infinite number of devices to be controlled through the serial output pin of a microcontroller. This microchip is made by a variety of manufacturers using a variety of different names, though they always have “595” in them.<br /> <br /> '''Half wave.''' See [[Terminology/Definitions#F|full wave]]. In Christmas lighting, term used to refer to strings of LEDs that don’t have a rectifier included.<br /> <br /> '''Heat sink.''' A piece of metal attached to an electronics component — microprocessor, microcontroller, Triac, optoisolator — that serves to dissipate or absorb unwanted heat. Many electronics components have two ratings, a lower one when a heat sink is not used and a higher one where a heat sink is in place. Also called a dissipator. ('''Note:''' This term is often misspelled as "heat sync" which doesn't make any sense at all.)<br /> <br /> == I ==<br /> '''IC — integrated circuit.''' An electronic component in which many elements are fabricated and interconnected by a single process (into a single chip), as opposed to a “nonintegrated” circuit in which the transistors, diodes, resistors and other components are fabricated separately and then assembled. Elements inseparably associated and formed on or within a single substrate.<br /> <br /> '''Infinite loop.''' A mistake in computer programming where instructions circle back and forth, never ending. See [[Terminology/Definitions#U|unproductive loop]].<br /> <br /> == J ==<br /> '''Jumper.''' A connector on a printed circuit board that allows two parts of a circuit to be completed. Also, a short length of wire to complete a circuit.<br /> <br /> == K ==<br /> '''Komby.''' A holiday lighting system based on the Arduino platform that sends lighting commands wirelessly via 2.5MHz radio frequency using the [[Terminology/Definitions#N|nRF24l01]] transceiver. Input can be in a variety of protocols ([[Terminology/Definitions#R|Renard]], [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX-512]], [[Terminology/Definitions#E|E1.31]]) and various outputs are also supported (Renard, DMX-512, smart pixels). Named after hobbyist Greg Scull, the primary developer, whose childhood nickname was “[http://www.komby.com Komby].”<br /> <br /> == L ==<br /> '''LED — light emitting diode.''' A solid-state, semiconductor device that converts electrical energy directly into light. LEDs show up in Christmas lighting in two contexts: the first is as a power or signal indicator in controllers or SSRs, while the second is their use as a substitute for incandescent lamps. LED Christmas light strings use about one-tenth the energy of an incandescent lamp and have an extraordinary life span (some makers claim as many as 20,000-50,000 hours of use).<br /> <br /> '''Lutefisk.''' The main dish in the official Christmas holiday meal of DIYC.org; a Scandinavian delicacy. Lutefisk is cod fish that has been air-dried to preserve it. Prior to cooking, it must be reconstituted by soaking for days in a lye solution and then rinsed thoroughly before being cooked for the meal -- preferably steamed. It has the consistency of a gelatin dessert -- some call it "fish jello." It is said that half the Scandinavians who came to America came to escape lutefisk and the other half came to proselytize on its behalf. In any event, it's truly something of an experience... The three stages of eating lutefisk are as follows:<br /> <br /> [[file: Three stages of lutefisk.jpg| center]]<br /> <br /> '''Lynx.''' A group of holiday lighting products developed by hobbyist Robert Jordan. Initially based on DMX-512, the Lynx product line now supports both wireless transmissions as well as driving smart pixels. The most popular of the Lynx products is the [http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=ExpressUse Express], a 16-channel AC controller.<br /> <br /> == M ==<br /> '''M5.''' A type of [[Terminology/Definitions#L|LED]] Christmas light that is modeled after mini-lights. Typically, an M5 has a faceted cover and 110v AC strings come in 30, 50, 70, 90, 100 or 120 bulbs. These strings are made of combination series/parallel circuit construction and use resistors to compensate for the difference between the total bulb count and the input voltage. Commercial M5 strings are usually [[Terminology/Definitions#F|full wave]], while hardware or drug store strings are usually [[Terminology/Definitions#H|half wave]].<br /> <br /> '''Mains.''' The alternating current electricity provided by the utility company; a Britishism/Aussy slang for the American phrase “wall power.” In North America, typically 120 volts, AC. In the United Kingdom and Australia, typically 240 volts, AC.<br /> <br /> '''Microchip Technology Inc.''' [http://http://www.microchip.com/ Maker] of the [[Terminology/Definitions#P|PIC]] line of microcontrollers.<br /> <br /> '''Microcontroller.''' A computer-on-a-chip that emphasizes high integration, low power consumption, self-sufficiency and relatively low cost. Typically, a microcontroller has flash-type read-write memory allowing a programming station (usually called a PIC programmer) to enter in task-specific programs, which can be written in programming languages such as C, C++, BASIC or even in assembly code (which, of course, is the most efficient).<br /> <br /> '''Mini-lights.''' Holiday lighting incandescent bulbs that are about 7/32nds of an inch in diameter, they come in strings as short as 35 bulbs and as long as 400 bulbs, officially known as the T1-3/4. The strings are wired in series and parallel, usually in 50-bulb groups (the 50 bulbs are in series which are then wired parallel to the others, making 100-, 150-, 200-, 250-, 300-, 350- or 400-bulb strings). Pretty universally, strings that are grouped by 50 bulbs can be cut down to single 50-bulb strings. Mini-lights that are grouped by 50s use 2.5-volt, 170 mA bulbs, while 35-bulb strings use 3.5-volt bulbs. Colored mini-light bulbs are traditionally painted with a transparent paint, which can under certain weather conditions chip or fade.<br /> <br /> '''MOC3023.''' A 6-Pin DIP 400V Random Phase Triac Driver Output Optocoupler from Fairchild Semiconductor. It provides both [[Terminology/Definitions#T|Triac]] services and [[Terminology/Definitions#O|optoisolator]] services in one package.<br /> <br /> '''MORON.''' What other DIY'ers will think of you if you don't RTFM (see below).<br /> <br /> == N ==<br /> '''nRF24l01.''' A type of digital radio transceiver that supports transmission rates up to 2 megabits per second, using the 2.4GHz frequency, manufactured by Nordic Semiconductor. The radio is made as a 4mm x 4mm QFN surface-mount chip and requires certain additional components to operate. It only became popular when it was packaged in a small, pre-built printed circuit board with an antenna (or antenna connector) and an eight-pin connector. Has an effective range of about 250-500 feet in line-of-site environments. Used in the [http://www.komby.com Komby] line of wireless Christmas-lighting controllers.<br /> <br /> '''NOP.''' A "no-op" or "no-operation" command is often used in assembly language programming to cause the CPU to use-up one or more clock cycles just doing basically nothing. In this way, one can tweak the exact timing of a chip's CPU to better match a needed circuit function.<br /> <br /> '''Null pixel.''' In instances where the first pixel of the display and the controller are too far apart, a “null pixel” is included halfway in between in order to boost the signal. The device is usually just the [[Terminology/Definitions#P|pixel]] controlling chip without the [[Terminology/Definitions#L|LEDs]].<br /> <br /> == O ==<br /> '''Ohms.''' The measure of resistance to the flow of an electric current (the resistance through which one volt will force one amp). Resistors in electronic circuits are measured in ohms, as is the voltage drop of an electrical wire. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#E|Electricity basics]].<br /> <br /> '''Optoisolator (opto, optocoupler).''' A device that insures that a non-electrical barrier exists between a high-voltage environment and a low-voltage environment. It usually has some type of emitter — like an LED or a neon bulb — and an optical receiving element with a little dark tunnel between them. The high voltage causes the LED to brighten and that light then drives the low-voltage optical receiver. This way wall plug voltage doesn’t stream down low-voltage wires and into your controller or PC.<br /> <br /> '''Oscillator.''' A circuit that produces a sustained AC waveform with no external input signal. Oscillators can be designed to produce sine waves, square waves, or other wave shapes. They are typically used in Christmas lighting to produce fading and dimming.<br /> <br /> == P ==<br /> '''PCB — printed circuit board.''' An electronics board that contains layers of circuitry that connect the various components of a system. A PCB can be mass manufactured or can be “home etched,” where a hobbyist transfers the design of the PCB to a copper-clad board, uses caustic chemicals to etch away the areas not needed and then drills the holes him or herself.<br /> <br /> '''PIC.''' A brand name for microcontrollers from Microchip Technology Inc., it has become a generic term for any microcontroller, which is a computer-on-a-chip. Importantly, the development chain for the PIC is different from that of other microcontrollers (such as the ATmega series), so the underlying code of firmware cannot be shared between chip families.<br /> <br /> '''Pixel.''' In computer graphics, a picture element. On most digital screens, a single spot on the monitor. In holiday lighting, an LED that has three colors (red, green, blue), either controlled as a group (“dumb pixels”) or as a single element (“smart pixels”). Holiday-light pixels are available in a number of form factors, including strips, strings of rectangular pixels, strings of “bullet” pixels, strings of “square” pixels and strings of “C9” pixels.<br /> <br /> '''POD — power over DMX.''' Using [[Terminology/Definitions#R|RJ45]] connectors and [[Terminology/Definitions#C|Cat5]] cabling, 12-volt power is sent over three of the eight pairs of wires, while [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX-512]] signal is sent over two of the wires. The orange and orange-white wires carry the DMX, while the solid green, blue and brown wires carry 12-volts negative and the white-green, white-blue and white-brown wires carry 12-volts positive. Developed by Dave Moore of [http://www.holidaycoro.com/kb_results.asp?ID=92 HolidayCoro.com].<br /> <br /> '''Polarity.''' The electrical condition of being either positive or negative. The direction of current between two leads or the direction of a magnetic field.<br /> <br /> '''Programmer.''' A device that connects to a personal computer to a microcontroller to download an application from the PC to the chip. See PIC.<br /> <br /> '''Protocol.''' The data "language" that is used between devices so that they can communicate with one another. Examples are RS-232, RS-485, RS-422, Ethernet, Renard, DMX, E1.31, SACN, etc. Devices must be using the same protocol to be able to communicate. For example, a device that's sending data in the RS-232 format cannot be understood by a device that's expecting to receive DMX data.<br /> <br /> '''PWM — pulse width modulation.''' A method of controlling analog devices with digital signals; used in dimming lights and the speed of small DC motors. Rather than increasing or decreasing voltage, PWM controls the number of time segments the full voltage is applied (in microseconds).<br /> <br /> == Q ==<br /> '''Question.''' Things that you are free and encouraged to ask about the hobby or how to do it. Answering them is what our users are here to do. Our motto is, "There's no such thing as a dumb question."<br /> <br /> == R ==<br /> '''Ramsey Electronics.''' former maker of FM radio transmitter and other electronic kits. Ramsey is out of business but some of its kits are carried by HobbyTron: [https://www.hobbytron.com/search.php?Ntt=ramsey+kits HobbyTron]<br /> <br /> '''Raspberry Pi.''' A full UNIX-based computer the size of a bar of soap. The Pi uses a system-on-a-chip (SoC) from Broadcom and has full USB, memory card, HDMI video output and audio input/output support. In holiday lighting, used in conjunction with the [http://falconchristmas.com/forum/index.php/board,8.0.html FPP] software, which schedules and plays lighting sequences.<br /> <br /> '''RDM — remote device management.''' An expansion to the [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX-512]] protocol for configuring, updating and maintaining lighting equipment by allowing that equipment to send data back to the controlling computer.<br /> <br /> '''Resistor.''' A component in an electrical circuit that controls current by providing resistance. See [[Terminology/Definitions#O|ohms]].<br /> <br /> '''Renard.''' A method of controlling holiday lights using a microcontroller as an interface between a personal computer and the lights, conceived by hobbyist Phil Short in 2006. Renard is three things: controller hardware designs; the firmware running in the microcontroller, and the serial protocol for sending the commands from the personal computer to the lights. The initial hardware design was for eight channels and controlled two, four-channel SSRs using a Microchip PIC 16F688 processor. Renard controllers are designed by a variety of hobbyists and are available as printed circuit boards or as kits (which can be found [https://digwdf.com/store/ here], [http://www.renard-plus.com/ here], [http://radiant-holidays.com/radiant_holidays/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14&zenid=03c23714a63b9953fcdb7254cb26d169 here], [http://n7xg.net/sr32.html here] or [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35&zenid=b6e4ea4c3d0e343972b4c1b1a29f3fed here]). The name “Renard” is a play on the French slang for a male fox; in 2006 the leading DIY Christmas light sequencer was [[Terminology/Definitions#V|Vixen]], which while the name of one of Santa’s reindeers in the poem “A Visit from St. Nicholas,” is also a word describing a female fox.<br /> <br /> '''RG-6, RG-8, RG-11, RG-58, RG-59.''' These are all coaxial cables of varying thicknesses and impedance. The RG stands for “radio guide,” an old, obsolete military specification; the numbers are arbitrary. Most coax manufactured today is “RG-xx type,” because manufacturers don’t necessarily always meet the precise specifications. In the Christmas light world, you will encounter RG-58, a 50-ohm cable, because it is used in radio transmission and is discussed along with low-power FM transmitters that broadcast the music that accompanies the light shows.<br /> <br /> '''RGB — red, green, blue.''' A color model typically used in light applications (other color models include hue, saturation and lightness — HSL — and hue, saturation and value — HSV — as well as cyan, magenta, yellow, black — CMYK). In Christmas lighting, it is a term frequently used to designate a pixel, which has three LEDs, each of the named color. Note that the physical wiring order of different pixel types may be in RGB order, or RBG, or GBR, or GRB. Therefore the term RGB is a descriptive term, not necessarily a standard.<br /> <br /> '''RJ45.''' Registered Jack 45 is a telecommunications or computer connector that has four pairs of wires, for eight conductors. Wires can be attached in two different patterns, AT&T T568A or AT&T T568B.<br /> <br /> '''RoHS — restriction of hazardous substances.''' A directive by the European Union that is designed to keep harmful chemicals and materials to a minimum. It is used by electronics manufacturers to denote components that meet the EU requirements.<br /> <br /> '''RS232.''' A telecommunications protocol, Recommended Standard 232 was originally designed to connect teletypes with modems; it has survived to this day as the way computer serial ports send out data. RS232 is implemented in a variety of connectors, but is most commonly seen in the DB9 and DB25 devices. It uses nine wires and supports transmitted data, received data, request to send, carrier detect and ring indicator. It is used in Christmas lights by as the physical layer between PC serial ports and Christmas lights controllers.<br /> <br /> '''RS485.''' A telecommunications protocol, Recommended Standard 485 is typically used in building automation, the programming of logic controllers, sound system control, lighting control and video surveillance camera control. It is a two-wire system that uses a differential form of signaling that supports the transmission of data packets. It can be used over a long distance and supports multi-point connections. It is used in Christmas lights as a distribution system for light controllers signaling devices, sometimes using the DMX512 or the Renard protocols.<br /> <br /> '''RTFM''' A long-standing acronym in the tech community that stands for "READ THE F***ING MANUAL." Many DIY projects available in this community do have accompanying user guides, assembly manuals and other printed documentation. Don't be a moron -- when documentation is available, take the time to read it and follow it. It's there for a reason.<br /> <br /> == S ==<br /> '''Sequencer, sequencing.''' A computer program that allows hobbyists to align and apply lighting commands to music, or the process or using such a program. An early Christmas lighting sequencer was Comet, which was followed by Vixen (which has branched into two offerings, [http://www.vixenlights.com Vixen3] and [http://www.vixenplus.com VixenPlus]). Other freeware sequencers include [http://hinkles-lighting-sequencer.wikia.com/wiki/Hinkle%27s_Lighting_Sequencer_Wiki HLS] and [http://nutcracker123.com/nutcracker/tutorials/intro.pdf Nutcracker/xLights]. Commercial sequencing applications include Light Show Pro and Madrix.<br /> <br /> '''SMT, SMD — surface-mount technology, surface-mount device.''' A type of printed circuit board assembly that uses components that are soldered directly to the top of the board, rather than through holes drilled in the board. Most hobbyists view it as a more challenging technique than through-hole assembly. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DIP]].<br /> <br /> '''SNR — signal to noise ratio.''' A measure of signal strength relative to background noise. In Christmas lights, would be used in conjunction with an FM transmitter, that itself would be used to broadcast music with the light shows.<br /> <br /> '''SPT — service parallel thermoplastic.''' A type of electrical wire, commonly referred to as “zip cord” or “lamp cord.” Usually used in conjunction with the numbers 1, 2 or 3, which indicate 64ths-inches of insulation. SPT1 is usually 18 gauge wire, while SPT2 is available as 16 or 18 gauge and SPT3 can be as large as 10 gauge.<br /> <br /> '''Start channel.''' In [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DMX]] or [[Terminology/Definitions#W|wireless]] environments, the first [[Terminology/Definitions#C|channel]] a receiver has been programmed to accept. For example, a four-channel DMX receiver might be set to receive only channels 8-11, though all 512 channels pass through it, so its start channel would be 8.<br /> <br /> '''SSR — solid-state relay.''' In general electronics, an digital switch, rather than a switch with mechanical parts. In Christmas lighting, a light controller that includes a solid-state relay.<br /> <br /> '''Surface mount technology; surface mount device (SMT, SMD).''' A method of mounting integrated circuits, microcontrollers and other electronics on printed circuit boards. The method mounts the devices on the top of a PC board rather than using holes through the board. Compare this with [[Terminology/Definitions#D|DIP]].<br /> <br /> '''SWR — standing wave ratio.''' Usually used in the phrase “SWR meter,” which is a device coupled between a radio transmitter and an antenna and is used to tune the antenna accurately to the frequency over which the radio waves are being transmitted.<br /> <br /> == T ==<br /> '''Transformer.''' An electro-magnetic device designed to raise or lower electrical voltage.<br /> <br /> '''Transistor.''' A basic solid-state semiconductor that has three terminals and can be used for amplification, switching and/or detection.<br /> <br /> '''TRIAC — triode for alternating current.''' An electronic component used to turn on and off AC power to an electrical device such as a Christmas light. Specifically designed to handle dimming circuits.<br /> <br /> '''Twisted pair.''' Two insulated wires bent and curled together. Usually used in electronic signaling such as RS232 and RS485.<br /> <br /> == U ==<br /> '''ULN2803.''' An array of eight Darlington transistors (which themselves are arrays of two transistors) that amplify current. Often used in Christmas lights as devices to increase the current coming from a microcontroller to an SSR so that there is enough power to turn on (or off) the SSR.<br /> <br /> '''Universe.''' In DMX, 512 channels of lighting.<br /> <br /> '''Unproductive loop.''' A mistake in computer programming where instructions circle back and forth, never ending. See [[Terminology/Definitions#E|endless loop]].<br /> <br /> '''USB — universal serial bus.''' A type of connection typically found on a personal computer linking peripheral devices to the computer. It is a four-wire serial interface that includes 5-volt, DC.<br /> <br /> == V ==<br /> '''Vastelec.''' Maker of FM radio transmitters, with divisions based in Hong Kong and Zhuhai, China.<br /> <br /> '''Vixen.''' One of Santa Claus’ “eight tiny reindeer” as defined in the 1823 poem, “[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Visit_from_St._Nicholas A Visit from St. Nicholas]” (also known as “The Night Before Christmas” or “’Twas the Night Before Christmas”). Also, the name of a light-sequencing application initially developed in 2006 by hobbyist K.C. Oaks, who on his own wrote versions 1, 2, 2.1 and 2.5. In 2013 he wrote the underlying code for [http://www.vixenlights.com/ Vixen 3] and then turned development over to a group of volunteers. Also in 2013, a parallel project was started by John McAdams, which he calls [http://www.vixenplus.com VixenPlus].<br /> <br /> '''Voltage drop.''' The loss of electrical voltage in a circuit which is determined by two main factors: the size of the wire (or wire gauge) and the length of the wire run. While it can be experienced in any circuit, it typically is more of a problem in lower voltage circuits (5 volts-24 volts). Voltage drop on a long run of wire can be helped by increasing the wire gauge, using a smaller AWG number wire.<br /> <br /> '''Voltage regulator.''' An electronic device designed to take a higher voltage and make it conform to a specific lower voltage. Provide a 5-volt regulator with 12 volts as an input and it will put out a steady 5 volts; provide a 12-volt regulator with 13 volts and it will output a steady 12 volts. While some regulators are designed for specific voltages, others can provide a range of voltages depending upon resistance applied; variable voltage regulators can be controlled by potentiometers (i.e.: volume control), so that you can turn a knob and get various voltages depending on where the knob is.<br /> <br /> '''Volts.''' A measure of “electrical pressure” between two points in a circuit. The higher the voltage, the more current will be pushed through the circuit. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#E|Electricity basics]].<br /> <br /> == W ==<br /> '''Wall power.''' The alternating current electricity provided by the utility company. In North America, typically 120 volts, AC. In the United Kingdom and Australia (where it’s known as “mains”), typically 240 volts, AC.<br /> <br /> '''Watts.''' A measure of the amount of electrical power drawn by a load, such as a light bulb. A watt is determined by multiplying volts by amps. A kilowatt is 1000 watts and electrical utilities measure electricity consumption by kilowatt hours. For example, if you have two 500-watt heaters, and you leave them both on for one hour, you have used one kilowatt hour of electricity. See also [[Terminology/Definitions#E|Electricity basics]].<br /> <br /> '''Williams, Carson.''' An early Christmas light show hobbyist, Williams videotaped his sequence of the song [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wizards_in_Winter “Wizards in Winter”], by the group [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trans-Siberian_Orchestra Trans-Siberian Orchestra] in 2004 and posted it on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmgf60CI_ks YouTube]. The video gained millions of viewings in 2005 and helped launch the popularity of computerized Christmas lights shows sequenced to music.<br /> <br /> '''Wire gauge.''' A way of measuring the diameter of a wire. It is determined by the number of times a piece of metal is passed through successively smaller dies. So, the smaller the number (2, 4, 6, 8) the larger the diameter of the wire, while the larger the number (18, 22, 24), the smaller the diameter of the wire. Frequently expressed as AWG, meaning American Wire Gauge.<br /> <br /> '''Wireless.''' Radio transmission of signals. In holiday lighting, a method of transmitting sequences over a low-power radio such as an [[Terminology/Definitions#X|xBee]] or [[Terminology/Definitions#N|nRF24l01]].<br /> <br /> == X ==<br /> '''XBee.''' A type of digital radio transceiver that supports transmission rates up to 250 kilobits per second, manufactured by Digi International Inc. Available in a variety of output powers (up to 100 mW), topologies (point-to-point, star, mesh) and frequencies (868, 915 or 2450 MHz) using the ZigBee transmission protocol.<br /> <br /> == Y ==<br /> <br /> '''YMMV.''' - An acronymn for "your mileage may vary," a term often used by DIY'ers when suggesting that a measurement or experience of some kind may not be consistent with what one person is describing.<br /> <br /> == Z ==<br /> '''Zero cross.''' A technique for dimming AC lights which determines the point at which an AC line oscillates at zero volts. Employing the technique is necessary to allow AC lights to dim accurately. Other terms are zero cross detection, zero cross signal, ZC signal...<br /> <br /> '''ZigBee.''' See [[Terminology/Definitions#X|XBee]].</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Firmware_-_multiple_versions&diff=3221 Firmware - multiple versions 2022-12-03T13:49:52Z

<p>Dirknerkle: /* Table of Contents */</p> <hr /> <div><br /> == Table of Contents ==<br /> <br /> :* '''[http://diychristmas.org/vb5/showthread.php?197-Mega-List-of-Generic-Renard-Firmware&p=982&viewfull=1#post982/ Mega-List of Renard Firmware]''' - As listed in the forum posting, includes diagnostic and Ren-C firmware<br /> <br /> Sets of pre-compiled firmware:<br /> <br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.org/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=14/ Renard-start_address]''' Phil Short's original addressable firmware for the PIC16F688 chip @57,600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.org/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=12/ Renard LSD-start_address]''' Pre-compiled hex and asm for Ren48LSD or HeadBlinker with start_address for the PIC16F688 chip @57600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.org/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=20/ Renard 1825-LSD_start_address]''' Pre-compiled hex and asm for Ren48LSD or HeadBlinker with start_address for the PIC16F1825 chip @57,600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.org/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=9/ Renard-Servo-start_address]''' GDYRDAVE's modified RenServo firmware for the PIC16F688 chip @57600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.org/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=48/ Renard-Servo-range limits & start address]''' Chris Maloney's new RenServo firmware for the PIC16F1825 chip @57600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.org/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=19/ Renard_1825-start_address]''' Pre-compiled hex and asm firmware files for the PIC16F1825 chip @57,600 baud</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Firmware_-_multiple_versions&diff=3220 Firmware - multiple versions 2022-12-03T13:47:53Z

<p>Dirknerkle: /* Table of Contents */</p> <hr /> <div><br /> == Table of Contents ==<br /> <br /> :* '''[http://diychristmas.org/vb5/showthread.php?197-Mega-List-of-Generic-Renard-Firmware&p=982&viewfull=1#post982/ Mega-List of Renard Firmware]''' - As listed in the forum posting, includes diagnostic and Ren-C firmware<br /> <br /> Sets of pre-compiled firmware:<br /> <br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.com/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=14/ Renard-start_address]''' Phil Short's original addressable firmware for the PIC16F688 chip @57,600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.com/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=12/ Renard LSD-start_address]''' Pre-compiled hex and asm for Ren48LSD or HeadBlinker with start_address for the PIC16F688 chip @57600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.com/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=20/ Renard 1825-LSD_start_address]''' Pre-compiled hex and asm for Ren48LSD or HeadBlinker with start_address for the PIC16F1825 chip @57,600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.com/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=9/ Renard-Servo-start_address]''' GDYRDAVE's modified RenServo firmware for the PIC16F688 chip @57600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.com/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=48/ Renard-Servo-range limits & start address]''' Chris Maloney's new RenServo firmware for the PIC16F1825 chip @57600 baud<br /> :* '''[http://digwdf.com/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=19/ Renard_1825-start_address]''' Pre-compiled hex and asm firmware files for the PIC16F1825 chip @57,600 baud</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=3219 Main Page 2021-02-20T15:49:21Z

<p>Dirknerkle: </p> <hr /> <div><strong>Welcome to the diychristmas.org wiki</strong><br /> <br /> '''This wiki is a work-in-progress''', and content is provided by knowledgeable volunteers from the membership of the diychristmas.org community. Therefore, please understand that our intention is that the informational pages provided here are guidelines for successfully accomplishing various DIY tasks and do not reflect the ''only'' methods for doing so.<br /> <br /> '''Prior to using any of the information provided here, users agree to hold harmless diychristmas.org, its owners, administrators, moderators, wiki authors and editors from any and all damages that may arise from using any of the documentation contained herein.'''<br /> <br /> == Main Topic Areas ==<br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Beginners]]''' If you're new to this hobby or want to get started in it, please read this first. You won't regret it!<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Terminology/Definitions]]''' Every hobby has its buzzwords, these are good to know<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Lights & Electronics]]''' Information about lights, LEDs, pixels, electricity, electronics, PCB manufacturing and more.<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Audio/FM Radio]]''' Selecting/understanding music/help your visitors hear your show<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[DIY Display Construction]]''' Designing/building your own props - PVC, coroplast, wire frames, 3D printing, more. Lots of examples!<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Animatronics]]''' Using servo or motors to make animated displays<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Arduino]]''' Anything related specifically to cool Arduino stuff<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Raspberry PI/BeagleBone]]''' Topics related to setting up or using these inexpensive computer platforms<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Networking]]''' Contributors' instructions for network-related issues<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Firmware Tips & Techniques]]''' How to modify firmware settings, compile firmware, flash chips, etc.<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Firmware - multiple versions]]''' Various versions of firmware and how to use them.<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Assembly Guides]]''' Misc. Contributors' assembly instructions<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[Troubleshooting]]''' How to troubleshoot hardware, software, connections, etc. and tools you can use.<br /> <br /> [[file:Pumpkin.JPG|45px]] '''[[Halloween Displays]]''' We're not just about Christmas... we often decorate for other holidays, too!<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] '''[[PDF Gallery]]''' Miscellaneous PDF files and/or links to PDF documentation<br /> <br /> [[file:logo7small.png]] [http://diychristmas.org/vb5/ '''diychristmas.org'''] Return to the diychristmas.org forum<br /> <br /> <br /> *If you wish to be a contributing author to our Wiki project, click here for more info: '''[[Editorial Guidelines]]'''<br /> <br /> *If you are new to editing Wiki pages, consult the [//meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents '''User's Guide'''] for information on using MediaWiki software.<br /> <br /> ''Please note that all content displayed in the diychristmas.org wiki is considered to be in the public domain unless a copyright is specifically expressed by its author.''</div>

Dirknerkle https://www.diychristmas.org/wiki/index.php?title=PDF_Gallery&diff=3173 PDF Gallery 2020-07-24T22:42:28Z

<p>Dirknerkle: /* Table of Contents */</p> <hr /> <div>== Table of Contents ==<br /> <br /> ::* PDF - '''[[Media:Dipole antenna.pdf]]''' A tuned, waterproof antenna you can put outdoors.<br /> <br /> ::* PDF - '''[[Media:Spotlight.pdf]]''' A wireless, servo-controlled spotlight<br /> <br /> ::* PDF - '''[[Media: Antenna-Selection-and-Positioning-Guide.pdf]]''' Helpful information for FM stations and wireless routers<br /> <br /> ::* PDF - '''[[Media: Cutting_mini_lights.pdf]]''' Ernie Horning posted this originally. Nice chart to have!<br /> <br /> ::* PDF - '''[[Media:Wi_fi_interference.pdf]]''' Sources of interference for Wi-Fi networks<br /> <br /> ::* PDF - '''[[Media:RBL_Conversion_Wiki.pdf]]''' Bowhunter3125's neat way to convert Really Big Lights to use Pixels<br /> <br /> ::* PDF - '''[[Media:How to blinky.pdf]]''' A short explanation on the basics to making a computerized light display.<br /> <br /> ::* PDF - '''[[Media:Bus_detector_info.pdf]]''' Information on constructing Dirk's Bus Detector</div>

Dirknerkle