diychristmas.org wiki - User contributions [en]

Assembly Guides

2019-02-03T16:47:41Z

RobG:

* [[10W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)]] - RobG

* [[20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)]] - RobG

* [[10W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (RGB version)]] - RobG

* [[20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (RGB version)]] - RobG

* [[24ch DMX 8 RGB flood controller]] - RobG

* [[Flood light assembly tips]] - RobG

* [[Waterproofing flood lights]] - RobG

* [[Buffer/line driver]] - RobG

*[[Waterproofing buffer/line_driver]] - RobG

* [[Media:RBL_Conversion_Wiki.pdf]] - Bowhunter3125 - convert Really Big Lights to use Pixels

Waterproofing flood lights

2019-02-03T16:47:02Z

RobG: Created page with " // TODO"

// TODO

Waterproofing buffer/line driver

2019-02-03T16:13:21Z

RobG:

'''To waterproof buffer/line drivers, you will need the following:'''

* Silicone modified conformal coating - [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 MG Chemicals Silicone Modified Conformal Coating, 55 ml Bottle with Brush Cap]
* Dual wall adhesive lined 3/8" heat shrink tubing - [https://www.ebay.com/itm/DW1S3X-9-5-Dual-Wall-Adhesive-Lined-3-1-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-9-5mm-3-8-Black/142573262472?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 DW1S3X-9.5 Dual Wall Adhesive Lined 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing 9.5mm (3/8") - Black]
* Dielectric grease - [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube]
* Rubbing alcohol
* Heat gun
* Standard 1/2" heat shrink tubing (optional)

[[File:wpbld-1.jpeg|300px]]
[[File:wpbld-2.jpeg|170px]]
[[File:wpbld-3.jpeg|400px]]

'''If you want better moisture protection and make the whole thing tougher, do optional steps.'''

1. Cut the pigtail wires to 10mm lenght (~1/2") and remove ~3mm (1/8") of insulation. Twist and tin the wires.

[[File:wpbld-4.jpeg|400px]]

2. Solder one pigtail to PCB. Remember, '''male''' pigtail is on the '''input''' side, '''female''' on the '''output'''.

[[File:wpbld-5.jpeg|400px]]

3. Cut 3.5"-4" piece of 3/8" dual wall heat shrink tube and slide on one of the pigtails (there should be ~0.75"-1" overlap on pigtail's jacket.)

(Optional) cut 2" piece of 1/2" standard heat shrink tube and slide it on one of the pigtails.

4. Solder second pigtail to PCB.

[[File:wpbld-9.jpeg|400px]]

5. Cover PCB and wire ends with conformal coating. Make sure everything is covered. Wait 15-30 minutes and apply second coat (3rd coat is not necessary, but always a plus.)

6. Let coating dry for 24hrs.

[[File:wpbld-6.jpeg|400px]]

7. Clean pigtail's jacket ends with alcohol.

[[File:wpbld-7.jpeg|400px]]

(Optional) cover PCB with dielectric grease (small amount on the back, flat end.)

[[File:wpbld-8.jpeg|400px]]

(Optional) slide shorter tube so that PCB is in the middle and use heat gun to shrink the tube. There should be small overlap on pigtail's jacket, ~1/4".

Clean pigtail's jacket ends with alcohol as in step 7, to remove any grease.

[[File:wpbld-10.jpeg|400px]]

8. Slide dual wall heat shrink tube so that PCB is in the middle and use heat gun to shrink the tube. Start in the middle and then do sides. Inner hot melt adhesive lining will melt around pigtail's jacket and will seal it.

[[File:wpbld-11.jpeg|400px]]

[[File:wpbld-12.jpeg|400px]]

9. Finally, apply a thin layer of grease around male connector's gasket.

[[File:wpbld-13.jpeg|400px]]

Waterproofing buffer/line driver

2019-02-03T16:12:33Z

RobG:

'''To waterproof buffer/line drivers, you will need the following:'''

* Silicone modified conformal coating - [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 MG Chemicals Silicone Modified Conformal Coating, 55 ml Bottle with Brush Cap]
* Dual wall adhesive lined 3/8" heat shrink tubing - [https://www.ebay.com/itm/DW1S3X-9-5-Dual-Wall-Adhesive-Lined-3-1-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-9-5mm-3-8-Black/142573262472?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 DW1S3X-9.5 Dual Wall Adhesive Lined 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing 9.5mm (3/8") - Black]
* Dielectric grease - [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube]
* Rubbing alcohol
* Heat gun
* Standard 1/2" heat shrink tubing (optional)

[[File:wpbld-1.jpeg|300px]]
[[File:wpbld-2.jpeg|170px]]
[[File:wpbld-3.jpeg|400px]]

'''If you want better moisture protection and make the whole thing tougher, do optional steps.'''

1. Cut the pigtail wires to 10mm lenght (~1/2") and remove ~3mm (1/8") of insulation. Twist and tin the wires.

[[File:wpbld-4.jpeg|400px]]

2. Solder one pigtail to PCB. Remember, '''male''' pigtail is on the '''input''' side, '''female''' on the '''output'''.

[[File:wpbld-5.jpeg|400px]]

3. Cut 3.5"-4" piece of 3/8" dual wall heat shrink tube and slide on one of the pigtails (there should be ~0.75"-1" overlap on pigtail's jacket.)

(Optional) cut 2" piece of 1/2" standard heat shrink tube and slide it on one of the pigtails.

4. Solder second pigtail to PCB.

[[File:wpbld-9.jpeg|400px]]

5. Cover PCB and wire ends with conformal coating. Make sure everything is covered. Wait 15-30 minutes and apply second coat (3rd coat is not necessary, but always a plus.)

6. Let coating dry for 24hrs.

[[File:wpbld-6.jpeg|400px]]

7. Clean pigtail's jacket ends with alcohol.

[[File:wpbld-7.jpeg|400px]]

(Optional) cover PCB with dielectric grease (small amount on the back, flat end.)

[[File:wpbld-8.jpeg|400px]]

(Optional) slide shorter tube so that PCB is in the middle and use heat gun to shrink the tube. There should be small overlap on pigtail's jacket, ~1/4". Clean pigtail's jacket ends with alcohol as in step 7, to remove any grease.

[[File:wpbld-10.jpeg|400px]]

8. Slide dual wall heat shrink tube so that PCB is in the middle and use heat gun to shrink the tube. Start in the middle and then do sides. Inner hot melt adhesive lining will melt around pigtail's jacket and will seal it.

[[File:wpbld-11.jpeg|400px]]

[[File:wpbld-12.jpeg|400px]]

9. Finally, apply a thin layer of grease around male connector's gasket.

[[File:wpbld-13.jpeg|400px]]

Waterproofing buffer/line driver

2019-02-02T15:14:32Z

RobG:

File:Wpbld-13.jpeg

2019-02-02T04:49:29Z

RobG: Waterproof connector

Waterproof connector

File:Wpbld-12.jpeg

2019-02-02T04:48:43Z

RobG: Waterproof buffer/line driver

Waterproof buffer/line driver

File:Wpbld-11.jpeg

2019-02-02T04:47:50Z

RobG: Waterproof buffers/line drivers

Waterproof buffers/line drivers

File:Wpbld-10.jpeg

2019-02-02T04:46:35Z

RobG: Inner heat shrink

Inner heat shrink

File:Wpbld-9.jpeg

2019-02-02T04:45:45Z

RobG: Heat shrink pieces

Heat shrink pieces

File:Wpbld-8.jpeg

2019-02-02T04:43:01Z

RobG: PCB with grease

PCB with grease

File:Wpbld-7.jpeg

2019-02-02T04:40:13Z

RobG: Clean ends of pigtails

Clean ends of pigtails

File:Wpbld-6.jpeg

2019-02-02T04:38:56Z

RobG: Coated PCB

Coated PCB

File:Wpbld-4.jpeg

2019-02-01T19:56:50Z

RobG:

Tinned pigtail

File:Wpbld-5.jpeg

2019-02-01T19:56:25Z

RobG: One pigtail soldered

One pigtail soldered

File:Wpbld-4.jpeg

2019-02-01T19:54:00Z

RobG: Tinned wire

Tinned wire

File:Wpbld-3.jpeg

2019-02-01T19:51:44Z

RobG: Dielectric grease

Dielectric grease

File:Wpbld-2.jpeg

2019-02-01T19:49:50Z

RobG: Conformal coating

Conformal coating

File:Wpbld-1.jpeg

2019-02-01T19:48:40Z

RobG: Waterproofing buffer/line driver, what's needed

Waterproofing buffer/line driver, what's needed

Assembly Guides

2019-02-01T19:45:54Z

RobG:

* [[10W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)]] - RobG

* [[20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)]] - RobG

* [[10W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (RGB version)]] - RobG

* [[20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (RGB version)]] - RobG

* [[24ch DMX 8 RGB flood controller]] - RobG

* [[Flood light assembly tips]] - RobG

* [[Buffer/line driver]] - RobG

*[[Waterproofing buffer/line_driver]] - RobG

* [[Media:RBL_Conversion_Wiki.pdf]] - Bowhunter3125 - convert Really Big Lights to use Pixels

Waterproofing buffer/line driver

2019-02-01T19:45:03Z

RobG: Created page with "//TODO"

//TODO

Buffer/line driver

2019-02-01T19:42:49Z

RobG:

=== Buffer/line driver ===
* How to connect
* Possible connection scenarios

[[File:bld-1.png|200px]]

[[File:bld-back.jpg|200px]]

By default, BLD is configured to work with 6V-24V power. To make it fully effective at 5V, change solder bridge as below (shorted on the LV side.)

[[File:bld-lv.png|400px]]

[[File:bld-connection.jpg|400px]]

[[File:bld-4.jpg|400px]]

20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (RGB version)

2017-10-17T19:42:43Z

RobG:

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 74HC86 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor (used to be 4.7K)
1 R7 or R8 0.33R or 0R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor
</pre>

[[File:20w-xor-v1.jpg]]

[[File:20w-xor-v1-pcb.jpg]]

[[File:20w-xor-v1-bom-txt.jpg]]

'''IMPORTANT'''

As of mid 2017, 20W LEDs look different (color order,) do not use color of LED chips as a guide, use + & - signs and mounting holes

[[File:New_20W_LED.jpg]]

'''Polarity'''

Input polarity is determined by soldering '''0R (0ohm)''' resistor (one black band) either as '''R7''' or '''R8'''.

For '''positive input''', meaning positive input voltage (3.3V-5V) will turn the LED on, solder '''0R''' in '''R7''' position. '''Input voltage cannot exceed 5V'''.

For '''negative input''', meaning shortening input to GND will turn the LED on, solder '''0R''' in '''R8''' position. LED will be off when input is open or at 3.3V-5V. This configuration is often used with open collector/drain drivers designed for common anode (+) lights.

'''Older kits were shipped with 0.33R resistors instead of 0R and that's why R7/R8 on all images is 0.33R and not 0R.'''

20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)

2017-10-17T19:41:58Z

RobG:

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 WS2811 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 T1,T2,T3 2N3904 transistor
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor
3 R7,R8 33R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor
1 C3 68pF capacitor (33pF-68pF)
</pre>

'''UPDATES'''

New in v5: (all assembly pictures are v4, I will update them to v5 as soon as possible.)

1. Redesigned LED pads. The pads are now wider (and PCB is little shorter,) increasing possible offset of the LED to +/- 1/16".
You can also solder LED without trimming it's leads. It will make connection point stronger, but it will make it more difficult to remove the LED (if it goes bad.)

2. Redesigned input pads. The pads are now bigger and the drill holes are larger (large enough for #18 wires.) There is no GND pour around pads and they extend to the edge, so you can solder wires horizontally if needed.

3. Added test points. Teat pads allow easy testing of the LED drivers. Just short GND test point with any of the remaining 3 test points to turn the channel on. (see below)

4. RGB color order pads. Just like in the 10W version, you can now choose the color order, GRB (default) or RGB. For RGB, solder transistors like on the image below. (see below)

5. Redesigned inductor pads. To better fit in all types of enclosures, inductor pads are now farther away from the LED and they are rotated 90 degrees. Installing inductors horizontally (if needed) is now easier.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-1.jpg]]

'''Solder resistors'''

Use as little solder as possible.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-2.jpg]]

'''Cut leads'''

Cut leads as close to PCB as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s2.jpg]]

'''Solder diodes'''

Pay attention to polarity, diode's cathode (stripe) should be on the left side of PCB, pointing towards the LED.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-3.jpg]]

'''Solder monolithic capacitor, transistors, and LDO'''

Check markings on components, 78L05 is LDO (IC4,) 3904 are transistors. LDO and transistors should be soldered about 0.1" from PCB, total height should be ~0.3".

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-4.jpg]]

'''Solder electrolytic capacitor'''

Use PCB to bend capacitor's leads. Pay attention to polarity.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s6.jpg]]

"-" lead should be facing 33R resistors.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s7.jpg]]

'''Solder inductors'''

Inductors should be as close as possible to PCB. Apply pressure when soldering, heat for ~2-3 seconds, 2-3 times each lead.

Some inductors may have isolation sticking out on the bottom, trim if that's the case.

IMPORTANT: newer 20W cases have smaller dimensions and inductors will not fit vertically. If that's the case, mount inductors horizontally.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-5.jpg]]

'''Prepare LED'''

Cut LED's leads as shown, try to keep them as long as possible (3 inner leads.)

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-6.jpg]]

'''IMPORTANT'''
As of mid 2017, 20W LEDs look different (color order,) do not use color of LED chips as a guide, use + & - signs and mounting holes

[[File:New_20W_LED.jpg]]

'''Solder LED'''

LED should be mounted on the bottom. Use a lot of solder (and flood vias) to make pads stronger.

Pay attention to polarity and alignment. LED's anode should be close to 0.33R resistors (bottom side on the image.) "+" sign should be facing PCB (don't ask, markings are weird on those things :) .)

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-7.jpg]]

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4.jpg]]

'''RGB mode'''

Starting with version 5 of the board, there two extra pads between T2 and T3, which allow switching bases of T2 and T3.

This is the default GRB configuration. T2 - green transistor, T3 - red

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-grb.jpg]]

This is RGB configuration, move B3 to upper pad (near T3 & T2 labels) and B2 to lower pad.

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-rgb.jpg]]

'''Test pads'''

To test driver and LED section, short any of the RGB pads to the GND pad.

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-tp.jpg]]

'''Flickering issue'''

If you experience flickering, attach 68pF (33pF-68pF) capacitor (now included with the kit) between Din and GND

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-33p.jpg]]

20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)

2017-10-17T19:41:19Z

RobG:

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 WS2811 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 T1,T2,T3 2N3904 transistor
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor
3 R7,R8 33R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor
1 C3 68pF capacitor (33pF-68pF)
</pre>

'''UPDATES'''

New in v5: (all assembly pictures are v4, I will update them to v5 as soon as possible.)

1. Redesigned LED pads. The pads are now wider (and PCB is little shorter,) increasing possible offset of the LED to +/- 1/16".
You can also solder LED without trimming it's leads. It will make connection point stronger, but it will make it more difficult to remove the LED (if it goes bad.)

2. Redesigned input pads. The pads are now bigger and the drill holes are larger (large enough for #18 wires.) There is no GND pour around pads and they extend to the edge, so you can solder wires horizontally if needed.

3. Added test points. Teat pads allow easy testing of the LED drivers. Just short GND test point with any of the remaining 3 test points to turn the channel on. (see below)

4. RGB color order pads. Just like in the 10W version, you can now choose the color order, GRB (default) or RGB. For RGB, solder transistors like on the image below. (see below)

5. Redesigned inductor pads. To better fit in all types of enclosures, inductor pads are now farther away from the LED and they are rotated 90 degrees. Installing inductors horizontally (if needed) is now easier.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-1.jpg]]

'''Solder resistors'''

Use as little solder as possible.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-2.jpg]]

'''Cut leads'''

Cut leads as close to PCB as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s2.jpg]]

'''Solder diodes'''

Pay attention to polarity, diode's cathode (stripe) should be on the left side of PCB, pointing towards the LED.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-3.jpg]]

'''Solder monolithic capacitor, transistors, and LDO'''

Check markings on components, 78L05 is LDO (IC4,) 3904 are transistors. LDO and transistors should be soldered about 0.1" from PCB, total height should be ~0.3".

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-4.jpg]]

'''Solder electrolytic capacitor'''

Use PCB to bend capacitor's leads. Pay attention to polarity.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s6.jpg]]

"-" lead should be facing 33R resistors.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s7.jpg]]

'''Solder inductors'''

Inductors should be as close as possible to PCB. Apply pressure when soldering, heat for ~2-3 seconds, 2-3 times each lead.

Some inductors may have isolation sticking out on the bottom, trim if that's the case.

IMPORTANT: newer 20W cases have smaller dimensions and inductors will not fit vertically. If that's the case, mount inductors horizontally.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-5.jpg]]

'''Prepare LED'''

Cut LED's leads as shown, try to keep them as long as possible (3 inner leads.)

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-6.jpg]]

'''IMPORTANT'''
As of mid 2017, 20W LEDs look different (color order,) do not use color of LED chips as a guide, use + & - signs and mounting holes as a guide.

[[File:New_20W_LED.jpg]]

'''Solder LED'''

LED should be mounted on the bottom. Use a lot of solder (and flood vias) to make pads stronger.

Pay attention to polarity and alignment. LED's anode should be close to 0.33R resistors (bottom side on the image.) "+" sign should be facing PCB (don't ask, markings are weird on those things :) .)

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-7.jpg]]

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4.jpg]]

'''RGB mode'''

Starting with version 5 of the board, there two extra pads between T2 and T3, which allow switching bases of T2 and T3.

This is the default GRB configuration. T2 - green transistor, T3 - red

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-grb.jpg]]

This is RGB configuration, move B3 to upper pad (near T3 & T2 labels) and B2 to lower pad.

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-rgb.jpg]]

'''Test pads'''

To test driver and LED section, short any of the RGB pads to the GND pad.

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-tp.jpg]]

'''Flickering issue'''

If you experience flickering, attach 68pF (33pF-68pF) capacitor (now included with the kit) between Din and GND

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-33p.jpg]]

20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (RGB version)

2017-10-17T19:40:11Z

RobG: /* BOM */

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 74HC86 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor (used to be 4.7K)
1 R7 or R8 0.33R or 0R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor
</pre>

[[File:20w-xor-v1.jpg]]

[[File:20w-xor-v1-pcb.jpg]]

[[File:20w-xor-v1-bom-txt.jpg]]

'''IMPORTANT'''
As of mid 2017, 20W LEDs look different (color order,) do not use color of LED chips as a guide, use + & - signs and mounting holes as a guide.

[[File:New_20W_LED.jpg]]

'''Polarity'''

Input polarity is determined by soldering '''0R (0ohm)''' resistor (one black band) either as '''R7''' or '''R8'''.

For '''positive input''', meaning positive input voltage (3.3V-5V) will turn the LED on, solder '''0R''' in '''R7''' position. '''Input voltage cannot exceed 5V'''.

For '''negative input''', meaning shortening input to GND will turn the LED on, solder '''0R''' in '''R8''' position. LED will be off when input is open or at 3.3V-5V. This configuration is often used with open collector/drain drivers designed for common anode (+) lights.

'''Older kits were shipped with 0.33R resistors instead of 0R and that's why R7/R8 on all images is 0.33R and not 0R.'''

File:New 20W LED.jpg

2017-10-17T19:37:02Z

RobG: Newest 20W RGB LED

Newest 20W RGB LED

20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)

2017-09-21T16:07:45Z

RobG:

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 WS2811 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 T1,T2,T3 2N3904 transistor
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor
3 R7,R8 33R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor
1 C3 68pF capacitor (33pF-68pF)
</pre>

'''UPDATES'''

New in v5: (all assembly pictures are v4, I will update them to v5 as soon as possible.)

1. Redesigned LED pads. The pads are now wider (and PCB is little shorter,) increasing possible offset of the LED to +/- 1/16".
You can also solder LED without trimming it's leads. It will make connection point stronger, but it will make it more difficult to remove the LED (if it goes bad.)

2. Redesigned input pads. The pads are now bigger and the drill holes are larger (large enough for #18 wires.) There is no GND pour around pads and they extend to the edge, so you can solder wires horizontally if needed.

3. Added test points. Teat pads allow easy testing of the LED drivers. Just short GND test point with any of the remaining 3 test points to turn the channel on. (see below)

4. RGB color order pads. Just like in the 10W version, you can now choose the color order, GRB (default) or RGB. For RGB, solder transistors like on the image below. (see below)

5. Redesigned inductor pads. To better fit in all types of enclosures, inductor pads are now farther away from the LED and they are rotated 90 degrees. Installing inductors horizontally (if needed) is now easier.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-1.jpg]]

'''Solder resistors'''

Use as little solder as possible.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-2.jpg]]

'''Cut leads'''

Cut leads as close to PCB as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s2.jpg]]

'''Solder diodes'''

Pay attention to polarity, diode's cathode (stripe) should be on the left side of PCB, pointing towards the LED.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-3.jpg]]

'''Solder monolithic capacitor, transistors, and LDO'''

Check markings on components, 78L05 is LDO (IC4,) 3904 are transistors. LDO and transistors should be soldered about 0.1" from PCB, total height should be ~0.3".

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-4.jpg]]

'''Solder electrolytic capacitor'''

Use PCB to bend capacitor's leads. Pay attention to polarity.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s6.jpg]]

"-" lead should be facing 33R resistors.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s7.jpg]]

'''Solder inductors'''

Inductors should be as close as possible to PCB. Apply pressure when soldering, heat for ~2-3 seconds, 2-3 times each lead.

Some inductors may have isolation sticking out on the bottom, trim if that's the case.

IMPORTANT: newer 20W cases have smaller dimensions and inductors will not fit vertically. If that's the case, mount inductors horizontally.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-5.jpg]]

'''Prepare LED'''

Cut LED's leads as shown, try to keep them as long as possible (3 inner leads.)

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-6.jpg]]

'''Solder LED'''

LED should be mounted on the bottom. Use a lot of solder (and flood vias) to make pads stronger.

Pay attention to polarity and alignment. LED's anode should be close to 0.33R resistors (bottom side on the image.) "+" sign should be facing PCB (don't ask, markings are weird on those things :) .)

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-7.jpg]]

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4.jpg]]

'''RGB mode'''

Starting with version 5 of the board, there two extra pads between T2 and T3, which allow switching bases of T2 and T3.

This is the default GRB configuration. T2 - green transistor, T3 - red

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-grb.jpg]]

This is RGB configuration, move B3 to upper pad (near T3 & T2 labels) and B2 to lower pad.

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-rgb.jpg]]

'''Test pads'''

To test driver and LED section, short any of the RGB pads to the GND pad.

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-tp.jpg]]

'''Flickering issue'''

If you experience flickering, attach 68pF (33pF-68pF) capacitor (now included with the kit) between Din and GND

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-33p.jpg]]

Buffer/line driver

2017-05-08T00:14:45Z

RobG: Created page with "=== Buffer/line driver === * How to connect * Possible connection scenarios 200px 200px 400px File:bld-conne..."

File:Bld-back.jpg

2017-05-08T00:07:25Z

RobG: Buffer/line driver back side

Buffer/line driver back side

File:Bld-connection.jpg

2017-05-08T00:04:55Z

RobG: Buffer/line driver connection

Buffer/line driver connection

File:Bld-1.png

2017-05-08T00:04:12Z

RobG: Buffer/line driver

Buffer/line driver

File:Bld-lv.png

2017-05-08T00:03:43Z

RobG: Buffer/line driver low voltage (5V) mode

Buffer/line driver low voltage (5V) mode

File:Bld-4.jpg

2017-05-08T00:03:00Z

RobG: Buffer/line driver connection scenarios

Buffer/line driver connection scenarios

Assembly Guides

2017-05-01T13:48:40Z

RobG:

10W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)

2017-03-14T00:59:53Z

RobG:

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 WS2811 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 T1,T2,T3 2N3904 transistor
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor (used to be 4.7K)
3 R7,R8 33R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor (104)
1 C3 33pF capacitor (330)
</pre>

'''UPDATES'''

'''If you experience flickering and you have v6 board, go to the bottom of this page.'''

v6 of the board is now shipping. The major change is connector header (4 position, larger drill holes.) See image at the end of this page.

All new boards come with 10K resistors instead of 4.7K.

v4 of the board has one additional pad next to T2. The pad allows RGB selection (GRB is default,) see below.

v4 of the board has one additional pad between C2's pads. This is to accommodate 2.5mm and 5mm capacitors, see below.

[[File:10k.jpg]]

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2.jpg]]

'''Solder resistors'''

Use as little solder as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s1.jpg]]

'''Cut leads'''

Cut leads as close to PCB as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s2.jpg]]

'''Solder diodes'''

Pay attention to polarity, diode's cathode (stripe) should be on the left side of PCB, pointing towards the LED.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s3.jpg]]

'''Solder monolithic capacitor, transistors, and LDO'''

Check markings on components, 78L05 is LDO (IC4,) 3904 are transistors. LDO and transistors should be soldered about 0.1" from PCB, total height should be ~0.3".

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s4.jpg]]

'''Solder inductors'''

Inductors should be as close as possible to PCB. Apply pressure when soldering, heat for ~2-3 seconds, 2-3 times each lead.

Some inductors may have isolation sticking out on the bottom, trim if that's the case.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s5.jpg]]

'''Solder electrolytic capacitor'''

Use PCB to bend capacitor's leads. Pay attention to polarity.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s6.jpg]]

"-" lead should be facing 33R resistors.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s7.jpg]]

'''Trim leads'''

Trim all leads, remove excess solder if necessary.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s8.jpg]]

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s8-2.jpg]]

'''Solder LED'''

Pay attention to polarity and alignment. LED's "+" (anode) should be on the top (left side on the image below,) close to 0.33R resistors. LED's pins cannot touch GND pour. Lead frame should be cut off (see bottom of this page.)

[[File:10w-ws2811-v2.jpg]]

'''UPDATES'''

'''C2 capacitor'''

There are 2 different sizes of 0.1uF capacitors that I may ship, 2.5mm or 5mm.

[[File:0.1uf.jpg]]

'''RGB mode'''

Starting with version 4 of the board, there is one extra pad next to T2 which allows switching collectors of G & R transistors.

This is the default GRB configuration. T1 - green transistor, T2 - red

[[File:10w-grb.jpg]]

This is RGB configuration, move C2 to extra pad (G) and C1 to C2's place

[[File:10w-rgb.jpg]]

Version 6 of the board (Sept 2016)

[[File:10w-ws2811-v6-pcb.jpg]]

To fix flickering problem on version 6 of the board, add 33pf capacitor as shown below

[[File:Input_cap.jpg]]

'''Preparing LEDs'''

Make sure to cut the lead frame off. There should be no connections between colors.

[[File:led-uncut.jpg]] [[File:led-cut.jpg]]

10W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)

2017-03-14T00:58:50Z

RobG:

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 WS2811 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 T1,T2,T3 2N3904 transistor
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor (used to be 4.7K)
3 R7,R8 33R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor (104)
1 C3 33pF capacitor (330)
</pre>

'''UPDATES'''

'''If you experience flickering and you have v6 board, go to the bottom of this page.'''

v6 of the board is now shipping. The major change is connector header (4 position, larger drill holes.) See image at the end of this page.

All new boards come with 10K resistors instead of 4.7K.

v4 of the board has one additional pad next to T2. The pad allows RGB selection (GRB is default,) see below.

v4 of the board has one additional pad between C2's pads. This is to accommodate 2.5mm and 5mm capacitors, see below.

v5 of the board has one more capacitor, C3, 33pF.

[[File:10k.jpg]]

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2.jpg]]

'''Solder resistors'''

Use as little solder as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s1.jpg]]

'''Cut leads'''

Cut leads as close to PCB as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s2.jpg]]

'''Solder diodes'''

Pay attention to polarity, diode's cathode (stripe) should be on the left side of PCB, pointing towards the LED.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s3.jpg]]

'''Solder monolithic capacitor, transistors, and LDO'''

Check markings on components, 78L05 is LDO (IC4,) 3904 are transistors. LDO and transistors should be soldered about 0.1" from PCB, total height should be ~0.3".

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s4.jpg]]

'''Solder inductors'''

Inductors should be as close as possible to PCB. Apply pressure when soldering, heat for ~2-3 seconds, 2-3 times each lead.

Some inductors may have isolation sticking out on the bottom, trim if that's the case.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s5.jpg]]

'''Solder electrolytic capacitor'''

Use PCB to bend capacitor's leads. Pay attention to polarity.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s6.jpg]]

"-" lead should be facing 33R resistors.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s7.jpg]]

'''Trim leads'''

Trim all leads, remove excess solder if necessary.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s8.jpg]]

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s8-2.jpg]]

'''Solder LED'''

Pay attention to polarity and alignment. LED's "+" (anode) should be on the top (left side on the image below,) close to 0.33R resistors. LED's pins cannot touch GND pour. Lead frame should be cut off (see bottom of this page.)

[[File:10w-ws2811-v2.jpg]]

'''UPDATES'''

'''C2 capacitor'''

There are 2 different sizes of 0.1uF capacitors that I may ship, 2.5mm or 5mm.

[[File:0.1uf.jpg]]

'''RGB mode'''

Starting with version 4 of the board, there is one extra pad next to T2 which allows switching collectors of G & R transistors.

This is the default GRB configuration. T1 - green transistor, T2 - red

[[File:10w-grb.jpg]]

This is RGB configuration, move C2 to extra pad (G) and C1 to C2's place

[[File:10w-rgb.jpg]]

Version 6 of the board (Sept 2016)

[[File:10w-ws2811-v6-pcb.jpg]]

To fix flickering problem on version 6 of the board, add 33pf capacitor as shown below

[[File:Input_cap.jpg]]

'''Preparing LEDs'''

Make sure to cut the lead frame off. There should be no connections between colors.

[[File:led-uncut.jpg]] [[File:led-cut.jpg]]

20W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)

2017-02-16T18:28:59Z

RobG: /* BOM */

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 WS2811 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 T1,T2,T3 2N3904 transistor
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor
3 R7,R8 33R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor
1 C3 33pF capacitor (optional, see bottom of this page)
</pre>

'''UPDATES'''

New in v5: (all assembly pictures are v4, I will update them to v5 as soon as possible.)

1. Redesigned LED pads. The pads are now wider (and PCB is little shorter,) increasing possible offset of the LED to +/- 1/16".
You can also solder LED without trimming it's leads. It will make connection point stronger, but it will make it more difficult to remove the LED (if it goes bad.)

2. Redesigned input pads. The pads are now bigger and the drill holes are larger (large enough for #18 wires.) There is no GND pour around pads and they extend to the edge, so you can solder wires horizontally if needed.

3. Added test points. Teat pads allow easy testing of the LED drivers. Just short GND test point with any of the remaining 3 test points to turn the channel on. (see below)

4. RGB color order pads. Just like in the 10W version, you can now choose the color order, GRB (default) or RGB. For RGB, solder transistors like on the image below. (see below)

5. Redesigned inductor pads. To better fit in all types of enclosures, inductor pads are now farther away from the LED and they are rotated 90 degrees. Installing inductors horizontally (if needed) is now easier.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-1.jpg]]

'''Solder resistors'''

Use as little solder as possible.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-2.jpg]]

'''Cut leads'''

Cut leads as close to PCB as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s2.jpg]]

'''Solder diodes'''

Pay attention to polarity, diode's cathode (stripe) should be on the left side of PCB, pointing towards the LED.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-3.jpg]]

'''Solder monolithic capacitor, transistors, and LDO'''

Check markings on components, 78L05 is LDO (IC4,) 3904 are transistors. LDO and transistors should be soldered about 0.1" from PCB, total height should be ~0.3".

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-4.jpg]]

'''Solder electrolytic capacitor'''

Use PCB to bend capacitor's leads. Pay attention to polarity.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s6.jpg]]

"-" lead should be facing 33R resistors.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s7.jpg]]

'''Solder inductors'''

Inductors should be as close as possible to PCB. Apply pressure when soldering, heat for ~2-3 seconds, 2-3 times each lead.

Some inductors may have isolation sticking out on the bottom, trim if that's the case.

IMPORTANT: newer 20W cases have smaller dimensions and inductors will not fit vertically. If that's the case, mount inductors horizontally.

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-5.jpg]]

'''Prepare LED'''

Cut LED's leads as shown, try to keep them as long as possible (3 inner leads.)

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-6.jpg]]

'''Solder LED'''

LED should be mounted on the bottom. Use a lot of solder (and flood vias) to make pads stronger.

Pay attention to polarity and alignment. LED's anode should be close to 0.33R resistors (bottom side on the image.) "+" sign should be facing PCB (don't ask, markings are weird on those things :) .)

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4-7.jpg]]

[[File:20w-ws2811-kit-v4.jpg]]

'''RGB mode'''

Starting with version 5 of the board, there two extra pads between T2 and T3, which allow switching bases of T2 and T3.

This is the default GRB configuration. T2 - green transistor, T3 - red

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-grb.jpg]]

This is RGB configuration, move B3 to upper pad (near T3 & T2 labels) and B2 to lower pad.

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-rgb.jpg]]

'''Test pads'''

To test driver and LED section, short any of the RGB pads to the GND pad.

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-tp.jpg]]

'''Flickering issue'''

If you experience flickering, attach 33pF capacitor (now included with the kit) between Din and GND

[[File:20w-ws2811-v5-33p.jpg]]

File:20w-ws2811-v5-33p.jpg

2017-02-16T18:26:42Z

RobG:

Flood light assembly tips

2017-01-10T23:09:39Z

RobG:

[[File:3-4-3_T_connector.jpg]]

[[File:3-4-3_T_connections.jpg]]

[[File:flood_connection_1.png]]

Links to some of Ray Wu's products:

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-4core-female-BLACK-color-the-male-connect/1859056875.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 3-4-3 T-splitter 13.5mm]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/10pcs-lot-4-Core-BLACK-Waterproof-pigtail-20cm-long-each-male-and-female-male-connector-s/701799_1019853477.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.LQcqsE 20cm 4 core 13.5mm pigtails (preferred for floods)]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-4-Core-BLACK-Waterproof-pigtail-50cm-long-each-male-and-female-male-connector-s/1957533531.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 50cm 4 core 13.5mm pigtails]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-3-Core-BLACK-Waterproof-pigtail-50cm-long-each-male-and-female-male-connector-s/1495727183.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 50cm 3 core 13.5mm pigtails]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BLACK-1-5m-5feet-3-core-waterproof-extension-cable-one-end-with-male-the-other-end/1343256671.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 1.5m 3 core 13.5mm extension]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BLACK-3m-10feet-3-core-waterproof-extension-cable-one-end-with-male-the-other-end-with/1343193048.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 3m 3 core 13.5mm extension]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/plastic-end-cap-for-the-13-5mm-BLACK-waterproof-pigtail/1019809775.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 13.5mm end cap]

Flood light assembly tips

2017-01-10T23:08:22Z

RobG:

[[File:3-4-3_T_connector.jpg]]

[[File:3-4-3_T_connections.jpg]]

[[File:flood_connection_1.png]]

Links to some of Ray Wu's products:

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-4core-female-BLACK-color-the-male-connect/1859056875.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 3-4-3 T-splitter 13.5mm]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/10pcs-lot-4-Core-BLACK-Waterproof-pigtail-20cm-long-each-male-and-female-male-connector-s/701799_1019853477.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.LQcqsE 20cm 4 core 13.5mm pigtails (preferred for floods)]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-4-Core-BLACK-Waterproof-pigtail-50cm-long-each-male-and-female-male-connector-s/1957533531.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 50cm 4 core 13.5mm pigtails]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-3-Core-BLACK-Waterproof-pigtail-50cm-long-each-male-and-female-male-connector-s/1495727183.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 50cm 3 core 13.5mm pigtails]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BLACK-1-5m-5feet-3-core-waterproof-extension-cable-one-end-with-male-the-other-end/1343256671.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 1.5m 3 core 13.5mm extension]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BLACK-3m-10feet-3-core-waterproof-extension-cable-one-end-with-male-the-other-end-with/1343193048.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA
3m 3 core 13.5mm extension]

[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/plastic-end-cap-for-the-13-5mm-BLACK-waterproof-pigtail/1019809775.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RNbkhA 13.5mm end cap]

10W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)

2016-10-14T00:58:51Z

RobG:

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 WS2811 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 T1,T2,T3 2N3904 transistor
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor (used to be 4.7K)
3 R7,R8 33R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor
</pre>

'''UPDATES'''

'''If you experience flickering and you have v6 board, go to the bottom of this page.'''

v6 of the board is now shipping. The major change is connector header (4 position, larger drill holes.) See image at the end of this page.

All new boards come with 10K resistors instead of 4.7K.

v4 of the board has one additional pad next to T2. The pad allows RGB selection (GRB is default,) see below.

v4 of the board has one additional pad between C2's pads. This is to accommodate 2.5mm and 5mm capacitors, see below.

[[File:10k.jpg]]

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2.jpg]]

'''Solder resistors'''

Use as little solder as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s1.jpg]]

'''Cut leads'''

Cut leads as close to PCB as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s2.jpg]]

'''Solder diodes'''

Pay attention to polarity, diode's cathode (stripe) should be on the left side of PCB, pointing towards the LED.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s3.jpg]]

'''Solder monolithic capacitor, transistors, and LDO'''

Check markings on components, 78L05 is LDO (IC4,) 3904 are transistors. LDO and transistors should be soldered about 0.1" from PCB, total height should be ~0.3".

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s4.jpg]]

'''Solder inductors'''

Inductors should be as close as possible to PCB. Apply pressure when soldering, heat for ~2-3 seconds, 2-3 times each lead.

Some inductors may have isolation sticking out on the bottom, trim if that's the case.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s5.jpg]]

'''Solder electrolytic capacitor'''

Use PCB to bend capacitor's leads. Pay attention to polarity.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s6.jpg]]

"-" lead should be facing 33R resistors.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s7.jpg]]

'''Trim leads'''

Trim all leads, remove excess solder if necessary.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s8.jpg]]

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s8-2.jpg]]

'''Solder LED'''

Pay attention to polarity and alignment. LED's "+" (anode) should be on the top (left side on the image below,) close to 0.33R resistors. LED's pins cannot touch GND pour. Lead frame should be cut off (see bottom of this page.)

[[File:10w-ws2811-v2.jpg]]

'''UPDATES'''

'''C2 capacitor'''

There are 2 different sizes of 0.1uF capacitors that I may ship, 2.5mm or 5mm.

[[File:0.1uf.jpg]]

'''RGB mode'''

Starting with version 4 of the board, there is one extra pad next to T2 which allows switching collectors of G & R transistors.

This is the default GRB configuration. T1 - green transistor, T2 - red

[[File:10w-grb.jpg]]

This is RGB configuration, move C2 to extra pad (G) and C1 to C2's place

[[File:10w-rgb.jpg]]

Version 6 of the board (Sept 2016)

[[File:10w-ws2811-v6-pcb.jpg]]

To fix flickering problem on version 6 of the board, add 33pf capacitor as shown below

[[File:Input_cap.jpg]]

'''Preparing LEDs'''

Make sure to cut the lead frame off. There should be no connections between colors.

[[File:led-uncut.jpg]] [[File:led-cut.jpg]]

File:Input cap.jpg

2016-10-14T00:51:32Z

RobG: 10W v6 input cap fix

10W v6 input cap fix

Assembly Guides

2016-10-13T23:59:22Z

RobG:

Flood light assembly tips

2016-10-13T23:57:44Z

RobG: Created page with "File:3-4-3_T_connector.jpg File:3-4-3_T_connections.jpg File:flood_connection_1.png"

[[File:3-4-3_T_connector.jpg]]

[[File:3-4-3_T_connections.jpg]]

[[File:flood_connection_1.png]]

File:Flood connection 1.png

2016-10-13T23:55:55Z

RobG: Flood connection 1

Flood connection 1

File:3-4-3 T connector.jpg

2016-10-13T23:55:13Z

RobG: 3-4-3 T connector

3-4-3 T connector

File:3-4-3 T connections.jpg

2016-10-13T23:54:27Z

RobG: 3-4-3 T connections

3-4-3 T connections

10W RGB LED Driver Board Assembly (WS2811 version)

2016-09-11T16:35:27Z

RobG:

== BOM ==
<pre>
QTY Part Description
3 IC1,IC2,IC3 PT4115 constant current buck driver (soldered)
1 IC4 78L05 LDO
1 IC5 WS2811 (soldered)
3 L1,L2,L3 100uH inductor, 6x8mm, 500ma
3 T1,T2,T3 2N3904 transistor
3 D1,D2,D3 1N5819 diode
3 R1,R2,R3 0.33R resistor
3 R4,R5,R6 10K resistor (used to be 4.7K)
3 R7,R8 33R resistor
1 C1 47uF/50V capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF capacitor
</pre>

'''UPDATES'''

v6 of the board is now shipping. The major change is connector header (4 position, larger drill holes.) See image at the end of this page.

All new boards come with 10K resistors instead of 4.7K.

v4 of the board has one additional pad next to T2. The pad allows RGB selection (GRB is default,) see below.

v4 of the board has one additional pad between C2's pads. This is to accommodate 2.5mm and 5mm capacitors, see below.

[[File:10k.jpg]]

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2.jpg]]

'''Solder resistors'''

Use as little solder as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s1.jpg]]

'''Cut leads'''

Cut leads as close to PCB as possible.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s2.jpg]]

'''Solder diodes'''

Pay attention to polarity, diode's cathode (stripe) should be on the left side of PCB, pointing towards the LED.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s3.jpg]]

'''Solder monolithic capacitor, transistors, and LDO'''

Check markings on components, 78L05 is LDO (IC4,) 3904 are transistors. LDO and transistors should be soldered about 0.1" from PCB, total height should be ~0.3".

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s4.jpg]]

'''Solder inductors'''

Inductors should be as close as possible to PCB. Apply pressure when soldering, heat for ~2-3 seconds, 2-3 times each lead.

Some inductors may have isolation sticking out on the bottom, trim if that's the case.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s5.jpg]]

'''Solder electrolytic capacitor'''

Use PCB to bend capacitor's leads. Pay attention to polarity.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s6.jpg]]

"-" lead should be facing 33R resistors.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s7.jpg]]

'''Trim leads'''

Trim all leads, remove excess solder if necessary.

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s8.jpg]]

[[File:10w-ws2811-kit-v2-s8-2.jpg]]

'''Solder LED'''

Pay attention to polarity and alignment. LED's "+" (anode) should be on the top (left side on the image below,) close to 0.33R resistors. LED's pins cannot touch GND pour. Lead frame should be cut off (see bottom of this page.)

[[File:10w-ws2811-v2.jpg]]

'''UPDATES'''

'''C2 capacitor'''

There are 2 different sizes of 0.1uF capacitors that I may ship, 2.5mm or 5mm.

[[File:0.1uf.jpg]]

'''RGB mode'''

Starting with version 4 of the board, there is one extra pad next to T2 which allows switching collectors of G & R transistors.

This is the default GRB configuration. T1 - green transistor, T2 - red

[[File:10w-grb.jpg]]

This is RGB configuration, move C2 to extra pad (G) and C1 to C2's place

[[File:10w-rgb.jpg]]

Version 6 of the board (Sept 2016)

[[File:10w-ws2811-v6-pcb.jpg]]

Make sure to cut the lead frame off. There should be no connections between colors.

[[File:led-uncut.jpg]] [[File:led-cut.jpg]]

File:Led-uncut.jpg

2016-09-11T16:31:27Z

RobG: