Difference between revisions of "3D printed ropelight power connector"
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| − | Almost nobody likes and probably fewer DIY'er even use the stock connectors that come pre-attached to A/C ropelight. While they do work, they're big, clunky, and the power cables are generally a bit short, stiff, thick and hard to use and conceal. Here's a way you can make one that's more streamlined for SPT-1 cord, which can easily carry the current that typical, 1/2" AC ropelight needs. This process uses a 3-D printed bullet cover -- another use for your 3-D printer! We used some black PETG filament for ours as it matched the wire we wanted to use. | + | Almost nobody likes and probably fewer DIY'er even use the stock connectors that come pre-attached to A/C ropelight. While they do work, they're big, clunky, and the power cables are generally a bit short, stiff, thick and hard to use and conceal. Here's a way you can make one that's more streamlined for SPT-1 cord, which can easily carry the current that typical, 1/2" AC ropelight needs. This process uses a 3-D printed bullet cover -- another use for your 3-D printer! We used some black PETG filament for ours as it matched the wire we wanted to use. (Note: The STL file to make this power connector is in an attachment at the end of this how-to.) |
[[File:1-ropelight bullet cover.png|center|500px]] | [[File:1-ropelight bullet cover.png|center|500px]] | ||
| − | :: 1 - Pull the end of the SPT-1 wire a few inches through the 3-D printed cover. If the hole is really tight, use a knife or drill to enlarge it very slightly so the SPT-1 wire fits easily through the hole. | + | :: '''1 - Apply the connector shell.''' Pull the end of the SPT-1 wire a few inches through the 3-D printed cover. If the hole is really tight, use a knife or drill to enlarge it very slightly so the SPT-1 wire fits easily through the hole. |
| − | :: 2 - Prepare the SPT-1 power cord end: Strip about 5/8" of insulation from the SPT-1 wire, twist the ends snugly making sure they're straight, and tin the entire stripped ends with solder. This will result in stiff wire ends. | + | :: '''2 - Prepare the SPT-1 power cord end:''' Strip about 5/8" of insulation from the SPT-1 wire, twist the ends snugly making sure they're straight, and tin the entire stripped ends with solder. This will result in stiff wire ends. |
| − | :: 3 - Prepare the ropelight: Drive a couple small brads about 5/8" into the end of the ropelight where the power wires are. Try to center the brads in the wires to spread them and make room for inserting the tinned ends of the power cord. Leave the brads in for a few minutes to expand the ropelight. | + | :: '''3 - Prepare the ropelight:''' Drive a couple small brads about 5/8" into the end of the ropelight where the power wires are. Try to center the brads in the wires to spread them and make room for inserting the tinned ends of the power cord. Leave the brads in for a few minutes to expand the ropelight. |
| − | :: 4 - | + | :: '''4 - Remove the brads after a few minutes and insert the tinned ends of the power cord wires''' into the holes left by the brads. A needlenosed pliers really helps with this step. |
[[File:2-ropelight bullet cover.jpg|center|500px]] | [[File:2-ropelight bullet cover.jpg|center|500px]] | ||
| − | :: 5 - Test the connection by putting a plug on the other end of the SPT-1 power code and powering the ropelight. It should light, showing you have a good electrical connection. UNPLUG IT FROM A/C POWER BEFORE GOING ON! | + | :: '''5 - Test the connection''' by putting a plug on the other end of the SPT-1 power code and powering the ropelight. It should light, showing you have a good electrical connection. UNPLUG IT FROM A/C POWER BEFORE GOING ON! |
| − | :: 6 - Inject silicone glue into the open end of the bullet cover and fill it about half way. Smear a small amount of silicone glue on the end of the ropelight -- this will help lubricate the ropelight when you insert it into the bullet cover. | + | :: '''6 - Seal it.''' Inject silicone glue into the open end of the bullet cover and fill it about half way. Smear a small amount of silicone glue on the end of the ropelight -- this will help lubricate the ropelight when you insert it into the bullet cover. |
| − | :: 7 - Insert the ropelight end straight into the bullet cover without twisting. Keep inserting until silicone glue comes out of both ends of the bullet cover. Make sure the ropelight is well inside the cover. Wipe off any excess glue. | + | :: '''7 - Insert the ropelight end straight into the bullet cover without twisting'''. Keep inserting until silicone glue comes out of both ends of the bullet cover. Make sure the ropelight is well inside the cover. Wipe off any excess glue. |
[[File:3-ropelight bullet cover.jpg|center|500px]] | [[File:3-ropelight bullet cover.jpg|center|500px]] | ||
| − | :: 8 - Plug the cord into A/C power to test it again to make sure the electrical connection is still good. | + | :: '''8 - Plug the cord into A/C power to test it again''' to make sure the electrical connection is still good. |
| − | :: 9 - Let the silicone glue set overnight or, if you're extremely careful and don't pull on the connector, you can start mounting the rope light right away. Just be sure there's no stress on the connector until the silicone glue has had at least 12 hours to set. | + | :: '''9 - Let the silicone glue set''' overnight or, if you're extremely careful and don't pull on the connector, you can start mounting the rope light right away. Just be sure there's no stress on the connector until the silicone glue has had at least 12 hours to set. |
A ZIP file containing the above photos and the STL file you need for your 3-D printer is included below: | A ZIP file containing the above photos and the STL file you need for your 3-D printer is included below: | ||
| − | ::[[File: | + | ::[[File:Ropelight_bullet_cover.zip|center]] |
Latest revision as of 04:33, 12 May 2020
Almost nobody likes and probably fewer DIY'er even use the stock connectors that come pre-attached to A/C ropelight. While they do work, they're big, clunky, and the power cables are generally a bit short, stiff, thick and hard to use and conceal. Here's a way you can make one that's more streamlined for SPT-1 cord, which can easily carry the current that typical, 1/2" AC ropelight needs. This process uses a 3-D printed bullet cover -- another use for your 3-D printer! We used some black PETG filament for ours as it matched the wire we wanted to use. (Note: The STL file to make this power connector is in an attachment at the end of this how-to.)
- 1 - Apply the connector shell. Pull the end of the SPT-1 wire a few inches through the 3-D printed cover. If the hole is really tight, use a knife or drill to enlarge it very slightly so the SPT-1 wire fits easily through the hole.
- 2 - Prepare the SPT-1 power cord end: Strip about 5/8" of insulation from the SPT-1 wire, twist the ends snugly making sure they're straight, and tin the entire stripped ends with solder. This will result in stiff wire ends.
- 3 - Prepare the ropelight: Drive a couple small brads about 5/8" into the end of the ropelight where the power wires are. Try to center the brads in the wires to spread them and make room for inserting the tinned ends of the power cord. Leave the brads in for a few minutes to expand the ropelight.
- 4 - Remove the brads after a few minutes and insert the tinned ends of the power cord wires into the holes left by the brads. A needlenosed pliers really helps with this step.
- 5 - Test the connection by putting a plug on the other end of the SPT-1 power code and powering the ropelight. It should light, showing you have a good electrical connection. UNPLUG IT FROM A/C POWER BEFORE GOING ON!
- 6 - Seal it. Inject silicone glue into the open end of the bullet cover and fill it about half way. Smear a small amount of silicone glue on the end of the ropelight -- this will help lubricate the ropelight when you insert it into the bullet cover.
- 7 - Insert the ropelight end straight into the bullet cover without twisting. Keep inserting until silicone glue comes out of both ends of the bullet cover. Make sure the ropelight is well inside the cover. Wipe off any excess glue.
- 8 - Plug the cord into A/C power to test it again to make sure the electrical connection is still good.
- 9 - Let the silicone glue set overnight or, if you're extremely careful and don't pull on the connector, you can start mounting the rope light right away. Just be sure there's no stress on the connector until the silicone glue has had at least 12 hours to set.
A ZIP file containing the above photos and the STL file you need for your 3-D printer is included below: