Difference between revisions of "Animating a static, commercial snowman"
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[[File:Snowman.JPG | 250px |center]] | [[File:Snowman.JPG | 250px |center]] | ||
| − | ::The first thing was to separate the head from the body. A Dremel Moto Tool with appropriate cutter wheel is a good option to cut any wire/welded sections. However, the lights attached to the head were a bit more problematic -- and not wanting to dislodge them, they were kept connected. | + | ::*The first thing was to separate the head from the body. A Dremel Moto Tool with appropriate cutter wheel is a good option to cut any wire/welded sections. However, the lights attached to the head were a bit more problematic -- and not wanting to dislodge them, they were kept connected. |
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| + | ::*A swivel collar was designed which allowed for the light cables to remain intact. The collar was made in 3 parts, a top and bottom section and a washer spacer. The material chosen was a plastic, kitchen cutting board because they're very strong, inexpensive and rust-proof, although it's a bear to cut. A saber saw or band saw is highly suggested although a hack saw could also be used. The open slot allows the cable to be slipped through into the opening to prevent binding on any cables between the head and body. A picture of the assembled swivel head before final drilling shows how the slots overlap. The washer spacer is important and it should be wide enough to support the weight of the head. | ||
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::::[[File:Neck_insert.JPG | 550px ]] [[File:IMG_1446.JPG | 200px ]] | ::::[[File:Neck_insert.JPG | 550px ]] [[File:IMG_1446.JPG | 200px ]] | ||
| − | ::The | + | |
| + | :::Holes were drilled around the perimeters of the top and bottom parts for attachment to the wire frame. Small gauge wire was used to "sew" the top and bottom sections to their respective parts of the snowman frame using every 3 or 4 holes. The washer spacer adds distance between the top and bottom to prevent these wires from binding. A lockwasher was used to connect the top and bottom through the spacer and adjusted for easy motion. Lubrication is likely not required, but certainly WD-40 could be used if necessary. Ice/snow is not likely to adhere to the plastic material, either. | ||
Revision as of 05:45, 29 April 2020
- So you picked up a wire frame snowman at your local home improvement center and now that you've plugged it in, it glows nice and bright but it just stands there. And you want to make it interact a bit more with your viewers by adding some motion. It's not as hard as you might think, but it does involve a bit of DIY engineering, and truth be told, sometimes it turns out to be the one-of-a-kind-I-hope-I-never-have-to-do-this-again kind of engineering! But stick to it, and it'll come together. Here's one way to do it...
- The first thing was to separate the head from the body. A Dremel Moto Tool with appropriate cutter wheel is a good option to cut any wire/welded sections. However, the lights attached to the head were a bit more problematic -- and not wanting to dislodge them, they were kept connected.
- A swivel collar was designed which allowed for the light cables to remain intact. The collar was made in 3 parts, a top and bottom section and a washer spacer. The material chosen was a plastic, kitchen cutting board because they're very strong, inexpensive and rust-proof, although it's a bear to cut. A saber saw or band saw is highly suggested although a hack saw could also be used. The open slot allows the cable to be slipped through into the opening to prevent binding on any cables between the head and body. A picture of the assembled swivel head before final drilling shows how the slots overlap. The washer spacer is important and it should be wide enough to support the weight of the head.
- Holes were drilled around the perimeters of the top and bottom parts for attachment to the wire frame. Small gauge wire was used to "sew" the top and bottom sections to their respective parts of the snowman frame using every 3 or 4 holes. The washer spacer adds distance between the top and bottom to prevent these wires from binding. A lockwasher was used to connect the top and bottom through the spacer and adjusted for easy motion. Lubrication is likely not required, but certainly WD-40 could be used if necessary. Ice/snow is not likely to adhere to the plastic material, either.