Pixel Window Frames

(this page to be completed by some creative person!)

```wiki Pixel window frames are a good way to outline windows with individually controlled lights while keeping yearly installation reasonably quick and painless. Instead of attaching pixels directly to the house every season, the pixels are permanently mounted to lightweight removable frames. Install the frames, connect power and data, test them, and the windows are ready for the show.

There is no single correct way to build a pixel window frame. Windows, siding, shutters, trim, controllers, and storage space all vary from one display to another. This article describes the basic design considerations and several construction methods that can be adapted to fit a particular house.

Advantages of Pixel Window Frames

A removable frame requires more work during the original construction, but that time is usually recovered during the first few seasons of use.

Some advantages include:

• Pixels remain attached to the frame during storage.
• Pixel spacing remains consistent from year to year.
• Installation and removal can take only a few minutes per window.
• Wiring can be secured and protected instead of being temporarily attached each season.
• Frames can be repaired and tested indoors.
• The outline remains straight and evenly spaced.
• The same frame can often remain in service for many years.

The goal is to build the frame once, then make annual installation as simple as possible.

Planning the Frames

Before cutting any material, measure each window carefully. Do not assume that two windows that look identical actually are identical. Brick openings, shutters, trim boards, and window frames are sometimes slightly different from one another.

Measure:

• Overall width
• Overall height
• Depth of the trim or opening
• Location of shutters, hooks, clips, or other mounting points
• Distance to the nearest controller or power connection
• Available storage space during the off-season

It can be helpful to make a simple sketch of every window and write the measurements directly on the drawing.

Allow enough clearance for the frame to be installed and removed without scraping the house. A frame that fits too tightly may be difficult to install in cold weather, particularly after several coats of paint have been added.

If several windows are the same size, one completed frame can be used as a pattern for the others. Even then, test-fit each frame before permanently installing the pixels.

Choosing the Frame Material

Several materials can be used successfully. The best choice depends on the size and shape of the window, the type of pixels, the mounting method, and what materials are already available.

PVC Pipe

PVC pipe is inexpensive, lightweight, easy to cut, and readily available. Standard fittings make square and rectangular frames simple to assemble. PVC can also be heated and bent for arched windows.

Common sizes include 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch pipe. Half-inch PVC is usually adequate for smaller windows. Larger frames may benefit from 3/4-inch PVC or additional bracing.

PVC should be painted if it will receive extended exposure to sunlight. Flat paint also helps the frame blend into the house during daylight hours.

Advantages:

• Low cost
• Easy to cut and assemble
• Common fittings are available
• Can be heat-formed for curved windows
• Lightweight

Disadvantages:

• Large frames may flex
• Long unsupported sections may sag
• PVC can become brittle after extended outdoor exposure
• Bulky fittings may interfere with close-fitting mounting locations

EMT Conduit

Electrical metallic tubing, commonly called EMT, makes a strong and relatively thin frame. It is useful where PVC would be too flexible or too bulky.

EMT can be joined with conduit fittings, fabricated corner brackets, or flattened and bolted connections. It can also provide a good attachment surface for magnetic mounting hardware.

Advantages:

• Strong and rigid
• Thin profile
• Handles large frames well
• Suitable for magnetic mounting systems

Disadvantages:

• Requires metal-cutting tools
• Corners require fittings or fabrication
• Conductive material must be kept clear of exposed electrical connections
• Heavier than some plastic alternatives

Wood

Wood strips can also be used, particularly when the frame will be concealed behind trim or mounted inside a window.

Advantages:

• Easy to cut and fasten
• Inexpensive
• Easy to paint
• Simple to attach clips and brackets

Disadvantages:

• Can absorb moisture
• May warp
• Usually heavier than PVC
• Requires sealing or exterior paint

Plastic Strip or Coroplast

Pixels may also be installed in commercial pixel mounting strip, custom plastic strip, or narrow pieces of coroplast. The strip can then be fastened to a rigid outer frame.

This method makes pixel spacing easy to maintain and can simplify replacement of damaged sections.

Choosing the Pixels

Many pixel types can be used for window frames.

Common choices include:

• 12mm bullet pixels
• Square pixels
• Seed pixels
• Pebble-style pixels
• RGB strip
• Other individually addressable outdoor pixels

Bullet pixels are rugged and easy to replace but require relatively large mounting holes or pixel strip. Seed pixels produce a thinner and less noticeable frame, but their smaller wire may require more careful handling.

RGB strip can create a very clean line, although repairing a failed section may be more difficult than replacing an individual pixel.

Choose pixels rated for outdoor use and make sure all joints, connectors, and wire entries are protected from water.

Choosing Pixel Spacing

Pixel spacing is largely a matter of appearance, viewing distance, budget, and the effects that will be used.

Common spacing choices include:

• 1 inch
• 2 inches
• 3 inches
• 4 inches

Closer spacing produces smoother chases and more detailed effects but requires more pixels, more power, and more controller capacity.

Wider spacing costs less and is usually adequate when the windows are viewed from across the street. Test a short sample before committing to every frame. What appears widely spaced on a workbench often looks perfectly acceptable from normal viewing distance.

Try to keep the spacing consistent around corners. A slightly unusual gap at a corner is usually less noticeable than several pixels crowded together.

Determining the Pixel Count

The approximate pixel count can be calculated from the perimeter of the frame and the desired spacing.

For example, a frame measuring 36 inches wide by 60 inches high has a perimeter of:

36 + 60 + 36 + 60 = 192 inches

At 2-inch spacing, the frame would require approximately:

192 / 2 = 96 pixels

The final count may change slightly depending on corner placement and the location of the input and output cables.

It is usually better to lay out the actual pixel positions on the completed frame before cutting a pixel string or drilling all the holes.

Deciding Where Pixel Number One Goes

Before installing the pixels, decide where the first pixel and the controller connection should be located.

The best location is usually near:

• The controller
• A power connection
• The bottom corner of the window
• A location where the cable can be hidden
• The output of the previous frame when several frames are daisy-chained

Also decide which direction the data will travel around the frame. Record this information because it will be needed when creating the model in xLights.

A label on the back of the frame identifying the starting corner and data direction can prevent considerable confusion later.

Constructing a PVC Frame

The following is one basic method using PVC pipe.

Materials

• 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch PVC pipe
• PVC elbows
• PVC T-connectors, if braces are needed
• Exterior paint suitable for plastic
• Pixel mounting strip, clips, or zip ties
• Outdoor-rated pixels
• Pixel connectors or waterproof cable glands
• Mounting brackets
• Stainless steel screws or other exterior fasteners
• Zip ties
• Measuring tape
• PVC cutter or saw
• Drill and drill bits
• Marker
• Safety glasses

Assembly

• Measure and cut the PVC pieces.
• Temporarily assemble the frame without glue.
• Check that the frame is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner.
• Test-fit the frame on the house.
• Add a center brace if the frame is large or flexible.
• Mark the orientation and window location on the back.
• Disassemble and paint the pieces if desired.
• Reassemble after the paint has cured.

A frame does not always need to be glued. Friction-fit parts can make repairs or storage easier. On the other hand, an unglued frame may pull apart during installation. Small screws through the fittings can secure the frame while still allowing future disassembly.

If PVC cement is used, confirm the frame is square before the cement sets. PVC cement does not provide much time for reconsidering the design.

Making Curved Frames

Arched windows can be outlined by carefully heating PVC pipe and bending it to match the opening.

A heat gun works well, but heat the pipe gradually and move the heat gun continuously. Concentrating the heat in one spot can scorch, flatten, or kink the pipe.

A plywood form or a pattern traced from the window can help produce a smooth curve. Allow the PVC to cool completely before removing it from the form.

Safety Note: Work in a well-ventilated area and avoid overheating PVC. Wear gloves and eye protection. The pipe can become hot enough to cause burns even when it does not appear unusually hot.

Another option is to use flexible plastic tubing or segmented mounting strip attached to a rigid frame.

Mounting the Pixels

The pixels may be attached directly to the frame or installed in a separate mounting strip.

Pixel Mounting Strip

Commercial pixel strip provides consistent spacing and makes layout easy. The loaded strip can be attached to PVC, EMT, or wood with zip ties, clips, screws, or small brackets.

Do not overtighten fasteners. The mounting strip should be secure, but it should still be able to expand and contract with temperature changes.

Drilled PVC

Holes can be drilled directly into PVC for bullet pixels. This creates a clean installation but requires careful alignment.

A drilling jig will save time and produce more consistent spacing. Mark the starting point, then use the jig to locate each additional hole.

Test the hole size on a scrap piece first. A hole that is too small makes insertion difficult and may damage the pixel. A hole that is too large may not hold the pixel securely.

Direct drilling works best when the pixels face outward from the pipe. Consider how the wires will pass around elbows and fittings before drilling the corner areas.

Clips and Zip Ties

Pixels can be secured with commercial clips, custom 3D-printed clips, or small UV-resistant zip ties.

Clips make pixel replacement easier and avoid drilling large numbers of holes. They also allow the same frame design to be adapted to different pixel styles.

Use outdoor-rated zip ties. Inexpensive indoor zip ties may become brittle after exposure to sunlight and cold weather.

Seed Pixels

Seed pixels can be attached along PVC or EMT using small clips, clear tubing, silicone retainers, or carefully placed zip ties.

Do not pull seed-pixel wiring tightly. Leave enough slack to avoid placing stress on the solder joints where the wires enter each pixel.

Seed pixels can make a very lightweight frame, but their fine wire should be supported at regular intervals.

Handling the Corners

Corners usually require some compromise.

The exact pixel spacing may not fit perfectly around the perimeter. Several solutions are possible:

• Adjust the spacing slightly along one side.
• Place one pixel close to each side of the corner.
• Leave a slightly larger gap at the corner.
• Use flexible mounting strip that bends around the corner.
• Route the pixel wire behind the fitting.

Avoid sharp bends in the pixel wire. A gentle loop behind the frame is usually safer than forcing the wire tightly around a corner.

From normal viewing distance, a small difference in spacing at the corners is rarely noticeable.

Wiring the Frame

Secure the pixel wiring to the back or side of the frame so it cannot flap in the wind or become snagged during installation.

Leave small service loops where needed, especially near:

• Corners
• Input connectors
• Output connectors
• Power-injection points
• Removable controller boxes

Label all connectors. At a minimum, identify:

• Data input
• Data output
• Voltage
• Ground
• Window location
• Pixel count
• Data direction

Do not rely entirely on wire color. Connector manufacturers and pixel vendors do not always use the same color convention.

Before connecting a new pixel string, verify the wiring with a meter and confirm the pinout from the actual pixels being used.

Controller Location

The controller can be located:

• Directly on the frame
• In a small enclosure near the window
• In a central enclosure serving several windows
• Indoors with cables passing outside
• In another nearby display element

Mounting a small controller directly to each frame can make the system modular. Each window becomes a self-contained prop requiring only power and network or data.

A central controller may reduce the number of enclosures and power supplies, but it requires longer data and power cables.

There is no universal best arrangement. Choose the design that makes installation, troubleshooting, and storage easiest for the particular display.

Any controller used outdoors should be installed in a suitable weather-resistant enclosure. Position cable entries so water cannot easily run down the cable and into the box. Drip loops are cheap insurance.

Power Requirements

Calculate the expected current before selecting the power supply and wire size.

The maximum theoretical current of a pixel may be considerably higher than the current used during a normal show, particularly when brightness is limited in the controller or sequencing software. Even so, the wiring and power supply should be designed with reasonable safety margin.

Consider:

• Pixel voltage
• Total pixel count
• Maximum brightness
• Maximum expected current
• Wire length
• Wire gauge
• Voltage drop
• Power-injection locations
• Connector current rating

A small frame may need power only at the beginning. Larger frames or closely spaced pixels may need power at more than one point.

When injecting power, make sure all grounds are connected as required by the controller design. Do not accidentally connect the positive outputs of separate power supplies together unless the system was specifically designed for that arrangement.

Fuse each power feed appropriately. The fuse should be selected to protect the wire and downstream wiring from excessive current.

Power Injection

Power injection is simply the addition of power and ground at another point along the pixel string to reduce voltage drop.

Possible injection locations include:

• Opposite corner from the controller
• Halfway around the frame
• Both ends of the string
• At the beginning of each separate frame

The best location depends on the pixel voltage, wire size, brightness, and total number of pixels.

Test the frame using bright white at the maximum brightness expected during the show. Watch for:

• Color shifting
• Flickering
• Pixels turning pink or yellow instead of white
• Unstable operation at the far end
• Warm connectors or wiring

If the frame operates correctly during this test, normal animated effects should be less demanding.

Mounting the Frames to the House

The mounting method is often the most house-specific part of the project.

The frame should be:

• Secure in wind
• Easy to install
• Easy to remove
• Unobtrusive during daylight
• Unlikely to damage siding, shutters, brick, or trim

Shutter Brackets

If the window has shutters, simple metal brackets can be formed to slip behind or around them. The frame can hang from the upper brackets and be secured at the bottom with zip ties, clips, or small straps.

This method can make installation extremely fast because no tools are needed after the brackets are adjusted.

Hooks or Screws

Small permanent hooks or screws can provide reliable mounting points. Paint them to match the trim so they are less noticeable during the rest of the year.

Use fasteners appropriate for the wall material, and seal penetrations where necessary.

Magnetic Mounting

Magnets work well where steel flashing, trim, or installed metal plates are available. Magnets should be strong enough to resist wind but not so strong that removing the frame damages it.

Use corrosion-resistant or coated magnets for outdoor applications.

Brick Clips

Commercial brick clips may work when the brick and mortar profile is compatible. Test them before constructing all the frames because brick dimensions vary.

Inside-Mounted Frames

Some frames can be mounted inside the window. This protects the pixels from weather and eliminates exterior mounting hardware.

However, reflections from the glass may affect appearance, and screens, blinds, curtains, or window depth may interfere with the lights.

Other Methods

Other possible mounting methods include:

• Gutter clips
• Command-style outdoor hooks
• Custom 3D-printed brackets
• Aluminum clips
• Pipe clamps
• Spring clips
• Cable ties around existing structures

Whatever method is chosen, test one frame through wind, rain, and cold weather before duplicating it across the entire house.

Securing Against Wind

A frame hanging only from the top may swing, rattle, or pull away from the house.

Secure the bottom or sides with:

• Zip ties
• Small straps
• Clips
• Magnets
• Hooks
• Removable pins

The restraint does not need to support the frame's weight. It only needs to prevent movement.

Avoid creating a large flat surface that catches the wind. Coroplast panels, controller enclosures, and cable bundles should be mounted so they do not act like sails.

Connectors

Outdoor connectors make installation easier but also create possible failure points.

Use connectors that are:

• Rated for the expected current
• Polarized
• Weather-resistant
• Easy to identify
• Difficult to connect backward

Apply labels before the frames are installed. A connector marked Upper Left Window Input is much more useful than one marked Cable 7.

Protect unused output connectors with caps. Position connectors so water does not collect inside them.

When disconnecting, pull on the connector body rather than the wires.

Testing Before Installation

Test every frame indoors before taking it outside.

Verify:

• Correct pixel count
• Correct color order
• Correct data direction
• Correct starting corner
• Proper power injection
• Full-white operation
• Connector polarity
• Controller address
• xLights model configuration

Gently move the frame and wiring while it is operating. Intermittent connections are easier to find on a workbench than on a ladder in cold weather.

It is also helpful to photograph the back of each completed frame. The photograph provides a record of wiring, connectors, injection points, and controller placement.

Configuring the Frame in xLights

A rectangular window frame is normally created as an outline or custom model.

Record:

• Pixel count on each side
• Starting corner
• Direction of data flow
• Whether the pixels travel clockwise or counterclockwise
• Controller output
• Starting channel or universe assignment

If the actual pixel spacing around the corners is slightly uneven, the xLights model does not necessarily need to reproduce every physical gap. The important thing is that the model follows the correct pixel order.

For effects that move around the window, confirm that the model direction matches the intended visual direction.

Name the models clearly. Names such as Living Room Left Window are much easier to manage than Window 1 after the display grows.

Installation

A well-designed frame should require only a few steps:

1. Carry the frame to the correct window.
2. Hang it on the permanent brackets or clips.
3. Secure the bottom or sides.
4. Connect power and data.
5. Test the frame.

Where possible, use the same connector arrangement on every window. Standardization reduces mistakes and makes spare parts more useful.

After the first installation, note anything that was awkward. A small bracket change made during the off-season may save several minutes every year.

Removal

Before removing the frames, label any cables or connectors that are not already permanently marked.

Disconnect power before unplugging or reconnecting pixel wiring.

Inspect the frame while taking it down. Look for:

• Loose pixels
• Cracked clips
• Brittle zip ties
• Damaged wire
• Corroded connectors
• Water inside enclosures
• Loose brackets
• Paint damage

Repairing problems before storage prevents discovering them during installation the following year.

Storage

Storage should be considered before the first frame is built.

Possible storage methods include:

• Hanging the frames from wall hooks
• Suspending them from garage ceiling brackets
• Stacking them vertically with spacers
• Building a rolling storage rack
• Separating unglued PVC frames into sections

Do not pile frames directly on top of exposed pixels. Use spacers so the weight is carried by the frame rather than the lights.

Keep the input and output connectors protected. Small bags or caps can keep dust, insects, and debris out during the off-season.

If the controller remains attached to the frame, make sure the storage area is dry.

Repairs and Maintenance

Even a carefully built frame may eventually need repairs.

Design the frame so individual pixels, sections of strip, connectors, and controllers can be replaced without rebuilding the entire assembly.

Keep a small supply of matching pixels. Replacement pixels purchased several years later may have different wire colors, brightness, or color characteristics.

Useful maintenance items include:

• Spare pixels
• Matching connectors
• Heat-shrink tubing
• Soldering supplies
• Waterproof sealant
• Replacement clips
• Outdoor zip ties
• Spare fuses
• Labels

Test the frames well before the display season. Repairs are much more enjoyable in a warm workshop than outside after dark.

Lessons Learned

A few planning decisions can make a large difference later.

• Build and test one complete frame before buying or cutting everything for the remaining windows.
• Measure every window.
• Plan the mounting system before mounting the pixels.
• Plan storage before deciding the maximum frame size.
• Mark the input, output, and data direction permanently.
• Leave small service loops instead of stretching the wiring tightly.
• Use outdoor-rated materials.
• Keep connectors accessible.
• Use a drilling or spacing jig when making several matching frames.
• Test at the brightness that will actually be used.
• Make the yearly installation simple enough that another person could understand it.

The best frame is not necessarily the most elaborate one. A simple design that installs quickly, survives the weather, and works reliably year after year is usually better than a complicated design that must be repaired every season.

Other Variations

The same basic construction ideas can be adapted to:

• Door outlines
• Garage-door outlines
• Roofline sections
• Arches
• Columns
• Signs
• Indoor window displays
• Permanent architectural lighting

Frames can also be divided into smaller sections when a single large frame would be difficult to transport or store.

A large window might use four separate side pieces that connect at the corners during installation. This adds connectors but greatly reduces storage space.

Finished Details

Once the frames have been installed, step back and inspect both the overall appearance and the small details. A clean installation not only looks better but is usually easier to maintain year after year.

Look for:

• Consistent pixel spacing around the window.
• Wiring that is neatly secured to the frame.
• Connectors that are protected from the weather.
• Mounting hardware that is secure but easy to remove after the season.
• Frames that sit square and parallel to the window trim.

It is also worth viewing the display from across the street. Small imperfections that are obvious from a few feet away often disappear at normal viewing distance, while uneven spacing or crooked frames become much more noticeable.

Final Thoughts

Pixel window frames combine two useful ideas: the flexibility of individually controlled pixels and the convenience of reusable display hardware.

They require some planning and construction time, but once completed they can turn a time-consuming seasonal job into a quick installation. As with most DIYChristmas projects, the exact materials and methods are less important than building something that fits the house, the display, the available tools, and the builder's own way of doing things.

There are many ways to construct them. This is only a place to start.