FloodSticks

FloodSticks are small LED floods mounted inside PVC pipe so that the floods can be elevated above snow and hidden behind other props, thereby creating almost invisible light sources. The intention was to angle the light downward to illuminate a relatively small area, thus using the snow as part of the display. The notes here describe the experimental set of four floodsticks; there's no magic to the sizes and dimensions of the materials used. The

Materials:

• PVC pipe (1" diam, thin-wall, 30" long, cut into two pieces, 21" and 9" long)
• PVC coupling (1" to 1/2" adapter, used for the stand-up strut)
• PVC coupling (45 degree)
• PVC pipe (1/2" diam, 8" long - used for the stand-up strut)
• Transparent fluorescent light protector tube (cut to fit/protect the LED)
• PVC or other end cap
• Pill bottle
• Zip ties
• 3watt RGB LED
• 3, 1-watt resistors (LED current control)
• 2-1/2" to 3" length of 1" wide thin aluminum bar stock (LED heat sink)
• DIGWDF RenStick (an ESP-wireless, DC controller)
• 120vac to 5vdc buck converter, 1.5A or greater output
• Wire, plugs, electrical tape, high-temperature and other glues, paint (optional)

Construction notes:

• The pill bottle was not originally planned, but the power bucks were too large to fit inside the 1" PVC. A future design would use 1-1/2" PVC instead, thus eliminating the pill bottle and zip ties.
• The PVC pieces were tightly press-fit instead of glued; this proved to work very well and allowed later access to the controller
• Mounting in the yard was simple: a stake was driving into the ground on an angle and the FloodStick simply slid down over it. The side, stand-up strut helps keep not only the angle but stabilizes the FloodStick from wind.
• The photos should be quite self-explanatory for assembly

The Controller is a wireless RenStick, using an ESP module for wireless communication. After placing the FloodStick in the yard, some experimentation may be necessary to orienting the ESP's antenna for the best reception; simply pull the top section off, rotate the entire RenStick inside the PVC tube and reassemble the tube.

The LED was glued to the additional aluminum bar stock for not only additional heat dissipation but for ease of mounting in the PVC tube using more of the high-temp glue. 1-watt Current-control resistors were soldered directly to the 3W LED and wires that extended down to the controller prior to glueing in the PVC tube. The high-temp glue was purchased at a local auto parts store.

A 180 degree window was cut into the top of the PVC tube. The size of the window was arbitrary -- we had no idea how large to make it but we were confident that if the need arose, we could easily mask the window with black electrical tape. A length of the protection tube for fluorescent lights was cut and slit in the back, allowing to slide it over the window; black tape was used to secured it for waterproofing.

We used 1" thin-wall PVC, purchased at Lowe's.